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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. OBD1 or OBD2? OBD1 hasn't been programmed to ignore a crank sensor issue when the engine isn't running, but OBD2 has. Symptoms = No fuel and no spark. When they are on the way out, they can cause very lengthy starting, or no starting at all until it's cooled down.
  2. JBS Auto Designs do a stage 1 380hp non-intercooled 24V T kit for £7200 and Stage 2 (intercooler + remap to 440hp) for an additional £3300!! So basically, £10.5K for 440hp, because no one in their right mind would run a 24V turbo with no intercooler, especially with that fragile plastic inlet. And that, imo, is a complete rip off. Stealth I'm confident will undercut quite a lot, and still offer the same, if not better peformance, quality and reliability.
  3. If you're putting it directly onto the MAF, you need an 80mm inside diamater.
  4. LOL, so is 4WD :-) Seriously though, I know what you mean. There's a sense of achievement and satisfaction from getting good traction from old fashioned methods! On the power, that's what it put down at a Stealth Rolling road day a few years ago, so could be optimistic as many people seem to think Stealth's rollers are ;-) I was expecting around 350, so just short of 400 was a brucey bonus. TBH it feels 400 quick on the road, so I guess it can't be far off that. Why one VRT would make more power than another from the same boost is down to a few things..... turbo sizing, head flow (I have
  5. FishWick

    268s

    Yeah I always stick new tappets in when doing cams. The lobes and tappet surface wear in together, so it's important you start off with 2 freshly machined surfaces. I've seen new cams on old tappets cause scoring problems on the tappet surface, which stopped them from rotating in the head.
  6. Yeah the Corrado throttle is much heavier than the Golf's due to it's dual mechanism. I prefer the Golf throttle. Biggest gains come from the head though. Bigger valves. Get more air into the cylinders :-)
  7. Ask Vince at Stealth how good this is on VRTs :-) - http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control
  8. You keep the OE ally cap and fit one of these - http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=100&Itemid=87 if you can't seperate the cap from the existing tube (seems that some are one peice), you will need a cap from thinkauto.com aswell.
  9. Yeah they're still about £180ish from Ford :-( You could try a few from ebay? Sometimes it's just the internal amp that's blown and the coils are perfect. They just unbolt as you know :-) Yeah pretty much any ECU can run any wasted spark coils. Megasquirt can easily run a VW coilpack, or that one I linked, or MSDs etc, so long as it has 3 drivers. I love mapping. It's amazing the things you learn and can do by changing a few numbers on a laptop!
  10. If you're happy with the way it drives now, then it probably isn't worth it. Not sure what you mean by "live map" as both OBD1 and OBD2 need a new chip every time you make a change. Most AG OBD1 ECUs already have a chip holder installed at the factory, so saves a little time and money. OBD2 needs a holder soldering in and it's a nasty 44 pin chip too, so not the easiest of tasks!. The only way to get constant retweaking ability without hardware changes is a standalone, but most people are ill informed about them being undrivable, so they get a bad press.
  11. If you're having problems with the factory coilpack, you could try this - http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/pdf/components/ignition_coils/3x2.pdf It's just the high tension side and it fits inside the stock ally cradle with some very minor mods and therefore looks stock. The 4 output prongs from the internal ignitor will need modding into a 4 pin connector and to plug into the coil and it's done. I can run any coil I like with my Standalone and I've tried a few!! I've never had any issues with the VW Temic coilpack personally, but I know of people that have with old, original ones. Another
  12. Not bad are they? Your car looks right at home on the track there. What spring rates are you using these days, and what dampers?
  13. 1 - Cable. Idle control is motor controlled. 2 - I find the OBD2 engines are torquier low down and generally smoother and more responsive. On the rollers, healthy OBD2s put out the same power as OBD1 2.9s. The larger 2.9 throttle and manifold give you a slight top end advantage, but in the real world there's never any more than a car length in it between a 2.9 and 2.8. 3 - Yep
  14. You're the second person that's told me C2 have some quiet silencers, so that could be the way to go, cheers mate.
  15. Found it - http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?215746.0 He is using an M90 also, so have a read. As I say, I have been out in this car and it's bloody impressive.
  16. I like the Super quiet at 70-80mph bit :-) Which silencers did you use? Yeah I wouldn't mind meeting up again at some point and see how your car's progressed and listen to your exhaust!
  17. There's a guy on here who has an Eaton off a Jag or Merc in his MK3 VR, I can't remember the model of it, (or his username!) but I've been out in that car it's seriously impressive. All home built and running a great Chargecooler and twin throttle setup, and mapped by Uncle Vince :-) I found it to be very smooth and very grunty. Unlike the Rotrex and Vortech, the Eaton gives plenty of bottom end torque. His felt almost like an R32 kick you get a 2K rpms, and it held it well through the revs too. I think it's a good conversion :-)
  18. Ha ha, "Jim'll fix it", love it :-) I don't think I could be bothered to change the box 3 times but fair play to you mate! Have you considered an 02M conversion? Something I've been meaning to do for ages but haven't got round to it. 3" exhaust next too, but I'm concerned about annoying my neighbours with the noise. Is yours 3" or 2.5"? I can't remember! I've only just achieved a completely gas tight exhaust setup after 3 years, LOL! If your leaks are pre-turbine, then you should notice a slight performance improvement and even quicker spool if you fix them! It took a new manifold, new
  19. You can put a rubber sleeve round the 044 just fine. Mine's mounted with one of these brackets (inc rubber sleeve) on a plate isolated by rubber couplings - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p14597/SYTEC-FUEL-PUMP-&-FILTER-BRACKET/product_info.html I use a Walbro GSS340 in-tank to feed it and it's very quiet. I've heard some 044s that are very loud when A) fed by a stock in tank and mounted solidly with no rubber isolation.
  20. It's normal to have a slight sweat of oil behind the compressor wheel, but if it's finding it's way into the scroll, defo needs looking at. Thrust bearing's probably tired and allowing a bit of shaft movement, so a 360 upgrade defo a good idea.
  21. Defo spacer if Rotrex or Turbo. An accidental big overboost on stock compression would kill the engine Vortech S/Cs are more predictable and linear and can run stock compression OK. I ran 12psi on mine with no issues, other than very busy knock regulation!
  22. Yeah yours has come a long way since then, not that it was bad to begin with! Just noticed in your avatar you're on gearbox no 3? Seriously? Was it gunning up the strip that broke them? I'm just looking at your plot and the torque does climb very quickly, but it also drops 100lbft from 4500 to 7000. I'm just thinking if you're breaking gearboxes and looking to get your times down, maybe go to a bigger turbo? Later spool, saves the box, but stonking top end held to 7000? Just a thought :-) I've not had any probs with my gearbox yet, touch wood, but it's a road only car I guess.... Good
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