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  1. 8 likes
    Good evening Guys, Well its been a while since we featured a members car so getting back into the swing of things this is going to be one of many. If you've taken a shine or special interest in a members car like we at VR6OC did with this one and think there car would be worthy of a feature then please drop me a private message. This members car was picked for the shear dedication, effort, time, money and I guess many many man hours that has gone into the build. The build has been followed by myself and probably many of you and I can say without question this car is going to be a rocket when finished. So here goes...... The person behind this awesome car. Name : Matthew Lambton Forum User Name : @matty.vrt Age : 26 Occupation : Project Leader Location : Middlesborough Hobbies : Cars Likes : Motorsport Dislikes : Any other types of sport Car Questions. First Car : Golf Mk2 1.6 Driver Current Car : Golf Mk4 Vr6 4 motion turbo Dream Car : Porsche 997 GT2 Other cars Owned : Audi Q5 Previous Cars : Golf Mk2 x2, Ibiza Mk2 GTI, Golf Mk3 Vr6 Supercharged, Golf Mk3 Vr6 turbo x2, Corsa VXR, Bmw E46 M3, Audi S3 Stage 2. What got you into Dubs? After reading Max Power as a kid I quickly realised that there was a classier way of doing things then I discovered PVW. Best Feature On Your Car? Turbo. Future Modifications? Sequential gearbox, R32 bodykit, Nitrous....... Favourite Other Members Car? Douglas Flockhart aka Trix or Cook's motor. Guess I'm just a sucker for a clean Mk3. Mods and Build. R32 BUB block NG Motorsport CNC'd combustion chamber NG Motorsport CNC'd intake/exhaust Supertech valves Supertech duel valve springs Standard cams SPturbo VVT delete cam gear SPturbo CNC oil filter housing ARP2000 10mm head studs 84.5mm over bore JE 8:5:1 forged pistons SPturbo stage 2 rods VW R36 rod bearings Mk4 BFH crank SPturbo main performance bearings Don Octane crank girdle Don Octane 12.9 main bolts P-Motorsports 4" to 2x3" downpipe P-Motorsports T4 twin scroll manifold P-Motorsports duel plenum intake with relocated injectors P-Motorsports injector bungs Garrett GTX4202R 1.15 T4 Hot side 2 x Tial 38mm MVS wastegates 90mm Corvette Z06 DWB throttle body 1200cc Precision injectors Aeromotive belt drive pump Haltech Elite 2500 ECU Haltech DIY harness Haltech CAN Dash Haltech CAN Lamba And so on......... You gotta agree this engine build is pretty awesome. Chassis 378 AP Racing ex-touring car brakes Gaz Gold Coilovers Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 Nankang NS2R track tyres 225/40/18 Matty's Target I plan to use this car on the road aswell as the track. I hope to enter a few sprints and hill climbs and I'm thinking of doing Time Attack next year. Expected power output will be 800 - 1000bhp. General Stuff. Blonde or Brunette? Blonde Takeaway or Home cooked? Depends who's cooking Tea or Coffee? Coffee Euro Look or USA Look? Euro Soaps or Documentary? Documentary, seriously if Sky only has a Discovery Channel I would still pay for it. Mates or Dates? Mates. Unless the girlfriend is reading this (dates honey, every time) haha. Pubs or Clubs? Pubs Sun Seeker or Thrill Seeker? Thrill Larger or Spirits? Larger Dogs or Cats? Dogs Nights Out or Couch Potato? Definately a potato All Go or All Show? Always want both but performance mods always end up taking priority. Winter or Summer? Who likes winter? Has to be summer. Tattoo's or Piercings? Tattoo's Football or Rugby? Neither. If it doesn't have an engine it's not my type of sport. Now for some Pics. View the full build thread here (including more photos!) There's some serious work gone into this car and there's more to come. certainly one to follow. This car will be awesome when it hits the road and tares up the tarmac. Keep both hands on the wheel matty. haha. Congratulations mate, you have an amazing car........
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    Hi everyone. I'm from Devon and have owned my scirocco for 17 odd years. I have recently undertaken another restoration on it so its really clean. I have always wanted a VR6, as a kid it was the gold standard in magazines etc. Nowadays so many people are doing 1.8T conversions so i thought it was about time to get myself a VR6 and do it. I bought an mot failure sharan for £150 with a good strong 135k engine. I have stripped it out along with gearbox, wiring loom, ecu, transmission, gearstick and some other bits. The rest of the car is being scrapped on thursday. I plan to use a 'bolt in' set of mounts from here: http://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-epytec-vr6-engine-conversion-mounts--02a--02j-gearbox-mounts-14704-p.asp I will then get custom shafts made and the rest will 'fall into place' hopefully. First problem is i have a dbv gearbox which i think is no good so need to find myself a gearbox now....but i will ask about that in the right places. anyway, looking forward to my adventures into VR6 ownership. Steve
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    Bought this Votex lip for £50 off eBay in 2 pieces then made it into one piece![emoji16] Now to see if it can be persuaded onto a US bumper!
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    Set it on fire, will save you a fortune in the long run! Lol
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    Just want to know and see other vw lovers like me
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    Well finally got my VR back today a very happy man....
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    So as promised here are some more pictures, once the engine had been fitted i carried on test fitting the tubular front end with the radiator and intercooler, the reason why i went for a tubular front end was to shave having to butcher the front bumper and start rad support ot get everything in, and it also looks pretty cool! as you can see from the above picture i have installed some motorcycle into the front bumper now to make everything legal but these can removed for shows etc and will be tinted so not as visible until illuminated. in the meantime SSautowerks had finished the exhaust manifold and had the flange skimmed and vapour blasted so when the car has had a few heat cycles it will come a lovely even colour. (fingers crossed) i also fitted a mixture of lupo and polo 9n parts onto the rear beam so i can run mk4 golf 256 brakes: and i had a test fit of the wheels! After around an hour of searching with the knowledgeable bloke at my local GSF i managed to finally finish my driveshafts and install those for the 6 speed swap and fit my CAE shifter along with modifying the centre console which i was very nervous about! and thats about it for now! the engine wiring is complete and just waiting on a few little details to be finished and the interior is nearly ready once the rest of my carbon comes to be fully built up!
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    Big thanks to pete Got a few of these little kits up for grabs Vr6 engine bay bolt kit Brand new 12.9 tensile bolts (not standard 8.8) plated not stainless (working on the stainless kits) Inlet manifold bolts upper Inlet manifold bolts lower Throttle body bolts (obd1 or obd2) Idle control bracket bolts Earth bracket bolt on inlet Fuel rail bolts Engine cover bolts Belt tensioner bolts Rocker cover nuts Coil pack bolts Inner wing bolts Timing chain cover bolts Various extras for brackets and mounts Kit comes in a plastic container with bolts in labelled bags Price - £22 posted with tracking number PayPal
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    Well... So I'm a little further forward with these.. Had a spare half an hour and thought I would go out in the shed and see if I could work it out! Guess what I did!! Chuffed with them how they are now.. Stripped down, re painted, new seals and new Pistons along with new bleed nipples.. Just gonna clean up my discs and use the original pads on the front as they were pretty much new anyway and then replace the rears for new.. The sake of £25 I've got 4 completely refurbished calipers happy days
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    This is more of a feeler – any interest in these fuel pipe holder brackets for the VR? These are the brackets that attach to the left hand side of the rocker cover, the fuel pipe holder clips onto this bracket. See photos. These only fit the alloy rocker cover. T304 Stainless Steel mirror polished by hand on both sides and around the edges.Price is £17.50 posted for a pair.All comments welcome.ThanksDave
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    Hi all. I have done lots of research but i have a few questions regarding the conversion. I have a 1984 mk2 scirocco and purchased a 1998 vw sharan for the donor. It has 135k on it. So its the same as a VR6 into mk1 golf conversion. The gearbox which is in it has 9571t-7f096 written on it and google says this is a DBV which i can find out next to nothing about. It is usual to use the 02a in these conversions and that it completely different to the one i have, different driveshafts, mounts, etc etc. My plan is to buy a new one. Would you recommend i get a 02a or as i have been reading a DZL? is a DZL a 02j? I understand i will need to buy a mk4 golf diesel box too for the 100mm flanges and 5th gear if plan to ever go on a motorway? I have 175/50/15 tyres and read that at 70mph i would be at 3500rpm (currently i run at 3200rpm). DZL gearboxes seem to be newer, cheaper and more common. or should i stick with the tried and tested method? I assume all mounting positions are the same for DZL and 02a? Will the hydro to cable conversion work on a DZL? any gearbox advice would be appreciated so i can buy the right one. who is good for making custom driveshafts, or should i get the old ones adjusted and friction welded? i think one needs shortening and one lengthening. anyone used the epytec 'bolt on' kit? did you have any issues? The donor is getting scrapped on thursday. I took the engine, engine harness, ecu, immobilisor, key, ignition ring, gearbox, cable gearstick, exhaust downpipe and front half of cat (with sensor). Can you think of anything else before it gets scrapped? (i plan to run a hydro to cable conversion for the clutch to no need to take the pedal) thanks in advance. steve
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    SOoo...A few has changed over the winter... Car is r8 now broken into pieces... engine out, whole rebuilt, engine bay cleaned... Engine: head work + Schimmel 263 cams, lightweight pulleys, new engine mounts, refurbished manifold + cover, new gaskets, new chains, new piston rings, new ignition unit, new hoses, cooler, resealed AC, painted block + cleaned trans, new clutch kit, refurbished flywheel, refurbished starter, refurbished alternator...and maybe something more + BBS R17 from Polo Cross, tuned muffler, painted fenders + bonnet.... Lastly, but most importantly I managed to acquire an Oettinger manifold (schrick without logo) with complete setup and ECU from VW Sharan 2.8 VR6...for a dime Thinking about restoring it and putting it on my engine later this season... Here are some pics from works which are still underway...expecting it to be running mid April...
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    I have a mk3 vr6 I either need find somewhere to store it or reluctantly sell it . If I sell I'm not to sure if it's worth breaking for parts, so basically i want people opinions on this. Also what are 5 door mulberry interiors worth in a good condition with all door cards? Thank you
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    Hi everyone! Not a great update as I haven't had chance to work on the car lately but I started finishing off the fuelling setup and ended up running out of hose and needing more fittings so I ended up trimming my headlights to fit the tubular front end and got them mocked up. Need some new hardware as the button cap heads are too long
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    I gave it a clean and fitted the carbon mirror covers [emoji7][emoji7]
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    Here's mine getting her ready for the summer
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    PART 2: So, once we have an understanding that there is a lot of marketing spiel, a lot of material and QC variances that you should look into to get the best, let's be more specific to VRT tuning! Common destruction of engines; I would say, in my experience, that there are two major factors in destroying engines and no matter how many times I tell people, this can also supersede any of the upgraded material specification aspects mentioned previously, is what ultimately destroys engines the most; Engines are set up for certain tolerances, certain specifications like measurements, that can obviously change with time due to general wear and tear from the forces placed upon them! I did this little mod on a the wiki VR6 drawing but it simply shows how pressure is placed angularly on certain reciprocal parts... G = Gravity, naturally pushing down on the offset angles of the reihenmotor - our baby's! – in short, you've over 14lbs per square inch pressing down on you at any time, pretty much in terms of ambient pressure in most places, you times this by the parts moving x amount of times over the course of an engines life and.... simply put..... you get wear and tear that changes the engine from how it was designed to be! Quick links; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambient_pressure https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tear_resistance https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force Therefore, simple rule is – if you're looking to ensure longevity of your engine, do not think it is necessarily good “as is”! I will always maintain that the simple refreshing of an engine by an experience builder, will ensure far greater longevity than leaving it as it is and even some "forged engine builds", regardless of the extra stresses and strains placed upon the engine with boost and even parts added! If you can't fork out for forged parts, just refresh it all to oem. Reason for that again comes down not to the material, but the tolerance aspects and additional strains it places upon your components if it is not running right. Which moves us onto the tune..... I assume most of you know that “a controlled burn” is what you always aim to achieve in terms of ecu tuning, the burning of fuel – as is required for correct operation! Detonation is an explosion rather than a controlled burn and this explosion, to cut a long story short, means a hell of a lot more stresses! So the tune is a very, very, important part, personally I have seen many pro tunes with little component protection/knock control but they still work based on what work has actually been done. So this explosion/knock, can destroy engines no matter how much you upgrade material spec, but the pressures alone could shear most materials, even hum dinger forged parts! So that is another fundamentally important aspect to engine longevity in any build, especially FI ones! I could talk about the tune and it's effects in stresses and strains but that'd take a whole other thread – in short, skimping here causing detonation, can lead to severe product destruction! https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-explain-the-difference-between-deflagration-and-detonation PART 3: So we understand the basics on building if looking at upgrading and/or rebuilding with stock so let's focus on building an engine for FI and saving money! In short, the more you do for an engine builder, the more you will save yourself! Taking it out of the car, stripping it down and bagging up/tagging parts is a good start, it'll save you a lot so I would do that first of all to save you some pennies. There's plenty of info on the forum for that. So you save yourself some money by stripping a lot yourself, and you're now aware that you need to specify that the engine builder needs to look into checking oem angles/tolerances etc and will need new oem parts at least for basics like gaskets, rings etc, although you're now aware there are better options in terms of material spec if you are looking to upgrade. Although I am a firm believer in the fact an oem refreshment and/or simple rebuild in itself brings about a far greater chance of longevity, there are factors to consider when going FI on the 6 pots! First port of call is the compression ratio then, with stock 6 pots running 10-11.5:1 ratio's as standard. What ratio you use can vary, personally, I have dealt with many big turbo/big name owners that run very low compression ratio's (sorting out their big name tunes) and they seem happy, up to dealing with a 2.8 24v owner who ran 9:1 at nigh on 700hp on pump fuel! I would therefore recommend keeping that ratio at 9:1 at most but this can come down to the tune as well, as mentioned, detonation and tune can make a difference so factor that in to what you are doing as those stresses count for a lot if the tune's out! Get info on the tuners builds if you can (i.e. compression ratio, parts used, boost levels etc). There are three main options nowadays to do that; spacer plate, pistons and rods; Spacer plates can vary in thickness which brings about various compression ratios, so there are options there. Pistons can also vary, I've mentioned some aspects above and there are choices on the market which is up to you really! I think you can go 7-10:1 pretty much on the plates. Another option is low compression rods, I've dealt with some big name tuners testing these out and they seem to be happy, it negates the need for a spacer plate and what is detailed herein I suppose as they are a few mm shorter as you can see; http://www.fcp-engineering.com/h-beam-steel-connecting-rods/106-vw-vr6-r32-28-29-32-special-turbo-161mm.html What tends to add strength here is the ability to handle additional stresses and strains as mentioned earlier – the material counts for a lot as you can see here in terms of psi; https://www.capitalsteel.net/news/blog/4130-vs-4340-steel-comparison Low compression rods have the benefit of adding material strength in these areas as well as lowering compression for detonation purposes, negating the need for pistons and/or a spacer plate! It would be interesting, if possible, to do some testing on what additional or lesser stresses the change in length does, similar to the wiki drawing above but that'll probably have to wait, although you could probably work the maths out to a degree if anyone has the time. The motion masses that need to handle strain which can be stock, are generally parts such as the rod bolt's, some people have tested out the cheaper aftermarket rods available but had them fail in this area on other oem engines, which in turn leads to “cheap Chinese aftermarket bolts” statements which I am not entirely sure is true! I have personally seen tests on such rod bolts (custom Chinese made for the group buy thread) exceeding 210,000psi, which is good enough for most – so I'm not entirely sure they are a weak point but this again could be down to the manufacturers and suppliers - always try and get as much info as you can from them and ask about these things, the better ones will be able to state or show you actual figures and stand by them. I think in that respect you should use your common sense and work off your budget! Compression, either through spacer plate and rod bolts, or low comp rods with ARP rod bolts, is your first port of call. Actually, if you look at stock rods v 20vt stock ones, then the VR6 ones are pretty beefy, I'd go oem refreshment before anything else! So that's some things to think about on the bottom end, on to the head! We also mentioned piston variances in material specs from Mahle above and I am assuming that most of you kinda know the ins and outs of pistons and what's available for these engines? PART 3: The head can set you back a lot.... a hell of a lot really! Not always necessary as this vid shows; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL6Aq0WwZ3I The head can take a lot of money to upgrade but, aside from checking oem tolerances and refreshing as mentioned, you could keep this fairly simple, the video shows that you needn't go crazy for 99% of applications and there are quite a few big hp build with little more than HD springs and cams usually! Valve guides are often the bane of VAG vehicles with high mileage, with harder valve springs to stop valve float you can run high rpm limit's safer and a few other things like cams, pulleys etc, but I would spend all my money on the other aspects mentioned before the head. Head work and what parts you use can be very much specified for the build, so work closely with your tuner in that respect or even ask other owners, also work to things like your turbo/boost levels and spool too. So a bit of info there for you, I've kind of tried to keep it sort of material based and manufacturing, making sure you are not mislead by hype or statements in those respects, there's plenty of porting and how to strip threads already on the net!
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    [b]Event Title:[/b] VW FESTIVAL 2017 [b]Event Author:[/b] VR6CABBS [b]Calendar:[/b] Club Events [b]Event Date:[/b] 08/11/2017 12:00 PM to 08/13/2017 05:00 PM Evening Guys, With the ever rising success of this show, I've booked a club stand for the full weekend for the club. They will only allow us 10 cars so even though its a while away i'm taking names for a place on our club stand. To avoid disappointment get your name down early. This is a show not to be missed. Many a member will vouch for this. You will not be committed to both the Saturday and Sunday but those who are arriving on the Friday will take priority. Let me know your thoughts and if you can commit then i'll list you for a place. Check there website and get your tickets booked if you fancy it....... https://www.vwfestival.co.uk/tickets Show Info Entertainment Live Music Graffiti Beetle Raffle Directions Harewood House Meet the Team Contact Us Cars for Sale Tickets Traders Trade Stands Auto Jumble Show & Shine Displays Vehicle Displays Club Stands Sponsorship Shop Gallery Advance Self-Print Tickets 11th to 13th August 2017, Harewood House, Leeds VW Festival is a family-friendly, entertainment-filled weekend that has something for everyone. As well as looking around some of the best VW's that the UK has to offer. There is an awesome live graffiti display, entertainment shows, live music, a funfair and Harewood's facilities such as the adventure playground, bird garden and food court. Tickets are now self-print tickets, which will be scanned when you enter the show. Benefits of buying advance tickets Free child (under 16) tickets, when booked with adults Entry to VW Festival, Harewood grounds, bird gardens and facilities Year'd window sticker Camping is ONLY available with advance tickets Advance (prebooked) tickets Adult Saturday or Sunday : £15Adult Half Weekend : £30Adult Full Weekend : £40Child Tickets (under 16) : FREE No additional fee for camping or vehicles On-the-gate tickets Only Saturday or Sunday tickets are available on the gate. Weekend tickets must be bought in advance.Adult Saturday or Sunday : £17Child (5-15 yo) : £6.50Under 5's : FREE Click the below link to register for the VW FESTIVAL 2017 event VW FESTIVAL 2017
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    recently I received my front brakes so fitted them and had a test fit of the wheels on the front, its going to be wide but with air ride and a pull of the arches we should be good! I then started fitting the Stack water temp, oil temp and pressure gauges along with the Kcarbon interior pieces and finalized the rear brake bias valve
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    Hi I'm Matt new to the group but not the vr6 I've had a few over the years from a mk2 vr6 and loads of mk3 vr6 I now have my first corrado vr6 which I'm very happy with
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    Hopefully mate! Will park it in the garage next few evenings and see if I can see any puddles lol
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    Hi Mate, They've been real carbon skinned by@michael5556 pal. Done a good job hasn't he mate. [emoji106]
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    Carbon mirror covers to fit tomorrow. [emoji106]
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    Managed to get the pedal box assembled today.
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    So, instead of going for a rebuild i thought about getting my gearbox oil changed for the off chance it could be shitty and thin and maybe that could be causing to to get abit noisey when warm..so off i went yesterday to the garage go get it changed and i left them to it. Got a phone call to say its all done and ready for pick up..and the guy who did it said "oh by the way, when we took the drain plug out no oil came out, it was as dry as ghandys flip flop:-/ which was a good thing as i was expecting to pay for another gearbox. He said he flushed the gearbox with a full litre of oil to make sure there was no metal filings in there and there wasnt...drove it the long way home so it was nice and warm and its as quiet as a mouse ) so much more pleasant to drive and cost me £40 instead of a few hundred quid...phew...good job i didnt drive it when the noises started to happen or it could of been alot worse..so overall im a happy bunny )
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    The feature is here... http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features-heroes/volkswagen-corrado-vr6-ph-heroes/35831
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    Well again still not done a thing with my VR as its still not back... That said though I did spend 10 min's in my local van breakers yesterday with a lump hammer and uber sharp wood chisel cutting out the wing vent from a Merc Sprinter ready to graft into the front wing of my VR when it finally comes back. Got a strange look from the owner mind when I said "Have you got any knackered wings in (for said van) not bothered if rotten, dented etc so long as the vent's a good un?) Him said "What years your van"? I said "Its a MK3 Golf" the look on his face was priceless as he didn't know what to say... .
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    Got a new ecu on its way, as old one was tried on another vr6 and wasn't able to start it either
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    Everyone in my family owns ford trucks...except for me.
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    Postman brought some more goodies today. Can't wait to get these fitted.
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    Hi peeps, how did it go?? I am a body man and to me that would of been a way bigger hole by the time he had prepped the are for the new metalbum to go in. The only way to KILL rust is to, either cut it out an inch further back from the rust;or get it acid dipped/media blasted. Rust is a cancer of the metal. The metal that is replaced should be a part of a new panel or sheet that has been elecroplated; not a sheet of bare tin!!! This is because the sheet metal has been standing in a cold work shop exposed to the atmosphere. So your basically putting an infected part back in for it to breed..But this is probably me being anal 👍👍.oh and Then Wax oil the s!@# out of it. Also zinc acid primer on the joins before welding as this helps to expel the oxygen from the weld too lower the risk of metal oxidation caused by the heat.
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    People need to understand the sheer depth of "professional mappers" they speak to - many use a re-seller file from either their software manufacturer or their suppliers and these bigger companies or dyno operators often don't have the time to specialize in one particular ecu unless you pay for it - even I would pass one of the older Motronic 12V ecu's over to Vince if I didn't have weeks or months to reverse engineer one myself or someone didn't want to pay for a complete custom job on their stock ecu, simply because he has done that many so I know has various boost files ready etc. Also, if, for example the OP - you are in another country, you should also see if he can patch in the boost controls or something and have a local dyno operator tune it once he's done it - not sure if he hides/IP rights his tunes though - would have to ask Vince and again, depends on how he mods the ecu's. In some respects, budding DIYers can probably already do that with the file I posted up and a bit of winols/tuneropro playing against your stock file and making notes of what needs to be coded roughly where. In fact, I can provide you with that actual file in a readable format for a small fee but it will need to be looked at thoroughly! However some mappers are already using it it seems! "You can't boost the stock ecu!" - of course you can. Although these are V6 4motions, there are two reads of a BDE - bottom is stock, top is me patching in load axis code for when it goes past the factory 100% limit, about 1.2bar here, but there's obviously a lot more to it than that. Middle one however, is a pro tune, 500+euro's worth someone paid for, and as you can see, not only has the factory hard cap on the load axis been retained, which'll obviously cause problems under boost, it's also maxxed across the rev range unlike stock. The amount of money people I have talked to have spent on these things...... well it's no wonder some of you go standalone! What you are looking at - bottom - stock BDE - top, same but you can see load axis changes I coded in (red box), don't have to do as many, can do the top two or three (blue box) for example - need to check the math and things like even the traction control at lower loads for example - middle is a "pro" ahem, map on single VVT V6 4motion - factory load still on and maxxed out, looks like stock torque values too, also looks like it is a quick cobbled together file (most tuners, to define a file will use things like a DAMOS or A2L file and they are usually pants or need a fair bit of modding unless you can get a good one exactly for your revision). Proper reverse engineering can take days, weeks or months even though and so costs a lot done properly! So - make sure you learn the differences on how something is "tuned" or what a mapper does as it can vary massively!
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    Thank you! Yes they were! I have a him and her I think if you like your cars you know Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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    Me too! They've got em in stock so fingaz x'd there close to OEM [emoji108]
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    As the topic states I'm looking for a mint pair of MK3 black leather recaro's. They need to have no bolster damage or substantial cracks and been looked after. Will to travel a good distance for a good pair. Thanks
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    FOR SALE: Supersprint single box stainless 2.25" full system complete with decat. Removed from my charged MK3 VR, sounds great. £150 Located in Northants, NN14, collection only. I'm not on here loads so better to call if interested. 07514 805367 - Ed
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    What the hell is that? [emoji52] Looks like my piss in the morning after a skinful the night before. [emoji23][emoji23]
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    Sadly genuine wings are non existent across the globe. As@D1BBZ says vw parts international do still have some. I think they bought the last batch made from Germany. [emoji106][emoji106]
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    So all seems ok with the VR. The new coilpack seemed to do the trick, also had a full service and a new sump pan fitted last week..she runs miles better! Think i might be putting the fuel smell in the car coming from the breather as its just a filter, i might just run a silicone hose to the floor instead as i cant deal with the smell. So next on the list is to get a new sunroof seal and sort out the electrics, mirrors and windows dont work! Not sure what it could be because it was intermittant at first so i cant see it being a fuse? And lasly i need my gearbox reconditioning or buy a second had one as its noisy when it gets hot...il get there in the end [emoji31]