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  1. 6 likes
    Hi everyone. I'm from Devon and have owned my scirocco for 17 odd years. I have recently undertaken another restoration on it so its really clean. I have always wanted a VR6, as a kid it was the gold standard in magazines etc. Nowadays so many people are doing 1.8T conversions so i thought it was about time to get myself a VR6 and do it. I bought an mot failure sharan for £150 with a good strong 135k engine. I have stripped it out along with gearbox, wiring loom, ecu, transmission, gearstick and some other bits. The rest of the car is being scrapped on thursday. I plan to use a 'bolt in' set of mounts from here: http://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-epytec-vr6-engine-conversion-mounts--02a--02j-gearbox-mounts-14704-p.asp I will then get custom shafts made and the rest will 'fall into place' hopefully. First problem is i have a dbv gearbox which i think is no good so need to find myself a gearbox now....but i will ask about that in the right places. anyway, looking forward to my adventures into VR6 ownership. Steve
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    if you don't look back at it its not worth driving ;-)
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    Beauty , can't scroll pass without staring at it for a while...
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    Hi all, im Russ, as title says i finally got my sticky mitts on a lovely black 3 door vr obd2 highline. had a vento tdi before on rx2s and coilovers, and had a 217bhp tdi pd bora which i owned for 8 years! Always wanted a '6 but i do a fair few miles for work so a tdi daily was always a must. Got a new house lately with a little garage, so as soon as i could i sold the bora, bought a cheap a4 b5tdi estate for a daily (and vr6 parts van of course!) and stuffed the garage full of vr6 goodness!! shes a tad tatty at the mo, think a boy racer used to own her-all the fogs and indicators were brush painted black and you couldn't see any light, so changed them as per pic to start with. Engine needs a good once over too, maybe even a twice or thrice over, but ill get there. other plans include overhauling the brakes for some standard refurbed calipers, new discs, braided lines and while im at it bearings abs sensors etc. got some corrado 5 spoke speedlines waiting to be refurbed also. These will replace the solitudes currently on it. Cars already sat on coilovers but i will be changing them to b14's soon and fitting some eibach upgraded arb's. I have a friend who does most of the mechanical stuff but i try and do minor jobs and interior work etc God its good to have that noise in my life at long last! Licence losing noise
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    Sooo... It´s been a long few months spent in the garage but the engine is up and running It was quite a relief when it rolled over. It has some slight ticking but I presume it has to settle down, first 500km will be slow and steady to get the engine into the proper state Then dyno and some tune to get it smoother running
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    Ian Birch built it didn't he when he used to own Dubsport? I grew up with Dubsport on one side and Awesome GTI on the other, used to see al their creations all the time, good inspiration when you got sick of projects! Last I heard about it was by a photographer who took some pics of it about 2 years ago.
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    Throwback. Miss my 300c was a tasty little motor!
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    Here's mine getting her ready for the summer
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    PART 2: So, once we have an understanding that there is a lot of marketing spiel, a lot of material and QC variances that you should look into to get the best, let's be more specific to VRT tuning! Common destruction of engines; I would say, in my experience, that there are two major factors in destroying engines and no matter how many times I tell people, this can also supersede any of the upgraded material specification aspects mentioned previously, it is what ultimately destroys engines the most in my opinion - age! Engines are set up for certain tolerances, certain specifications like measurements, that can obviously change with time due to general wear and tear from the forces placed upon them! I did this little mod on a the wiki VR6 drawing but it simply shows how pressure is placed angularly on certain reciprocal parts... G = Gravity, naturally pushing down on the offset angles of the reihenmotor - our baby's! – in short, you've over 14lbs per square inch pressing down on you at any time, ambient pressure in most places, you times this by the parts moving x amount of times over the course of an engines life and.... simply put..... you get wear and tear that changes the engine from how it was designed to be! Quick links; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambient_pressure https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tear_resistance https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force http://kingbearings.com/files/Geometry_and_Dimensional_Tolerances_of_Engine_Bearings.pdf Therefore, simple rule is – if you're looking to ensure longevity of your engine, do not think it is necessarily good “as is” just because it runs right! I have dealt with many that think that only to find their engine pop when the boost is turned up, usually due to all sorts from blocked oil pick ups to plugs not even being in properly! I will always maintain that the simple refreshing of an engine by an experience builder, will ensure far greater longevity than leaving it as it is and even some "forged engine builds"! If you can't fork out for forged parts, just refresh it all to oem should really help with longevity. Reason for that again comes down not to the material in this respect on a used engine - as such material can often receive some form of heat treatment in it's usage over it's lifetime, but the tolerance aspects and additional strains it places upon your components if it is not running right - the shearing and tearing forces it is subjected to are increased relative to the design tolerance changes of stock. Which moves us onto the tune..... I assume most of you know that “a controlled burn” is what you always aim to achieve in terms of ecu tuning, the burning of fuel – as is required for correct operation. Detonation is an explosion rather than a controlled burn and this explosion, to cut a long story short, means a hell of a lot more stresses! So the tune is a very, very, important part, personally I have seen many pro tunes with little component protection/knock control but they still work based on what work has actually been done in testing. So this explosion/knock, can destroy engines no matter how much you upgrade material spec, but the pressures alone could shear most materials, even hum dinger forged parts! So that is another fundamentally important aspect to engine longevity in any build, especially FI ones! I could talk about the tune and it's effects in stresses and strains but that'd take a whole other thread – in short, skimping here causing detonation, can lead to severe product destruction and especially on old worn engines. https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-explain-the-difference-between-deflagration-and-detonation So we understand the basics on building if looking at upgrading and/or rebuilding with stock so let's focus on building an engine for FI and saving money! In short, the more you do for an engine builder, the more you will save yourself! Taking it out of the car, stripping it down and bagging up/tagging parts is a good start, it'll save you a lot so I would do that first of all to save you some pennies. There's plenty of info on the forum for that. So you save some money by stripping a lot yourself, and you're now aware that you need to specify that the engine builder needs to look into checking oem angles/tolerances etc and will need new oem parts at least for basics like gaskets, rings, bearings etc. This is when you budget for your forged upgrades. Although I am a firm believer in the fact an oem refreshment and/or simple rebuild in itself brings about a far greater chance of longevity, there are factors to consider when going FI on the 6 pots and as mentioned above - material spec can count for a lot! First port of call is the compression ratio then, with stock 6 pots running 10-11.5:1 ratio's as standard it would take a lot of tuning to get it right so generally, for safety's sake and on a road car - compression ratio is lowered. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio What ratio you use can vary, personally, I have dealt with many big turbo/big name owners that run very low compression ratio's (sorting out their big name tunes) and they seem happy, up to dealing with a 2.8 24v owner who ran 9:1 at nigh on 700hp on pump fuel! I would therefore recommend keeping that ratio at 9:1 at most but this can come down to the tune as well, as mentioned, detonation and tune can make a difference so factor that in to what you are doing as those stresses count for a lot if the tune's out! Get info on the tuners builds if you can (i.e. compression ratio, parts used, boost levels etc) - more research here should dictate your rebuild somewhat! There are three main options nowadays to do that; spacer plate, pistons and rods; Spacer plates can vary in thickness which brings about various compression ratios, so there are options there - roughly 7-10:1 I think on the market nowadays. Main thing as boost rises using plates would be squish, which is why head and block studs would be a good upgrade, although you're talking nigh on forged piston money now! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squish_(piston_engine) Forged rods we've mentioned above, 4032 will expand less than 2618 which what they all seem to be, various options on skirt mods to negate this, various compression ratio's etc Another option fairly new to the market is low compression rods, I've dealt with some big name tuners testing these out in Europe and they seem to be happy, it negates the need for a spacer plate and add's strength in design and material, as they are a few mm shorter as you can see; http://www.fcp-engineering.com/h-beam-steel-connecting-rods/106-vw-vr6-r32-28-29-32-special-turbo-161mm.html Material can count for a lot in terms of psi resilience; https://www.capitalsteel.net/news/blog/4130-vs-4340-steel-comparison Low compression rods have the benefit of adding material strength in these areas as well as lowering compression for detonation purposes, negating the need for pistons and/or a spacer plate! *** I'll get around to working out the equations when I have time hopefully, but I'll likely just ask the tuners how their 600hp+ builds are holding up with these rods and ratio's etc - some maths if you want to do that though; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piston_motion_equations Ebay rods v Big name There was an interesting thread on another forum about Chinese rods and I think they came to the conclusion that the rod bolts were the weak point. I put a thread up ages ago to see if I could drum up numbers for some custom x beams (not enough interest though) and in dealing with the manufacturers and suppliers I saw test data of 210,000+psi on the bolts if I remember right, surprised to read that then on that forum thread! Again, this can come down to the manufacturers used and variances in that respect - so I am skeptical about their statements somewhat being a reference to any "Chinese rods" if you will. Of course the big names all put up some data and talk about the development in-house and we all know they tend to hold up - as mentioned in the thread though, there are many factors to consider. When I was dealing with manufacturers I think it came to in-between a 3rd and half the cost of a part manufactured in the UK (buying/filing patent, moulds and initial product) to outsource it abroad unfortunately, which is why many big name companies have done similar with parts, but the quality specified was still top notch (International QC standards/material spec etc) and the part would have been just as good if I had got the numbers. So, cheaper doesn't necessarily mean any less of a product and the blasé statements about such parts should really be looked into more in depth! So you have a few options, generally; Rod bolts (stressed area) - Low compression plate (various ratio's, need't go crazy but match to tune) Possibly head studs/main studs/bolts - squish and alignments etc plus strength Low compression pistons - better v cost Rod's - low comp or stock, various material/costs etc But....... give it a good refresh first, budget that then changes mentioned above for longevity depending on your budget and that's why some relatively stock engines can reach big power! The head can set you back a lot.... a hell of a lot really! Not always necessary as this vid shows; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL6Aq0WwZ3I The head can take a lot of money to upgrade but, aside from checking oem tolerances and refreshing as mentioned for the bottom end, you could keep this fairly simple. Valve guides are often the bane of VAG vehicles with high mileage, just general parts refreshing things, I can't really emphasise that enough as I have seen people try and take short cuts time and time again and it always ends up costing them more! Valve float can be a problem on older engines, especially if you are upping rpm limit's like many tunes do, so heavy duty valve springs is a good idea to stop this. Whilst you are stripping your engine for the engine builder or your own DIY you can do some little things yourself, it's what I did years ago, just bought some simple dremel tools, files etc and had a go! You can do things like gasket match your manifold gaskets to your ports, you can chamfer oil and water passages, even have a go at porting and polishing. This work can end up costing lot's of money, you are better with things like flow benches obviously but you can do some clean up and lot's of measurements and if you're going to have a go at DIY building then why not, just do your homework! Cams can help get a lot more power/torque when going NA to FI as many will know, again this should come down to the tune and changes in your set up/your goals - all of this head work should really be specified to your ecu tune and it can take up huge amounts of budget - usually pro engine builders will have their own parts they use and a lot of this is worked out with them - in terms of DIY - well, that's what the forums for, plenty of info online! So, just a brief overview, I wanted to mention the manufacturing and material side rather than the usual conversations as some incorrect presumptions/information is often bandied about.
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    I was just wondering if anyone on here is the owner of a red golf vr6 I used to have or has seen it about? reg number M935YSN vin number WVWZZZ1HZSW514822 I had it written off (cat C) in 2011 due to the handbrake failing and it rolling down a hill and through someone's garden wall, i'll post a pic lol. I just ran a check on the reg and it's had another 4 keepers after myself but it's currently SORN'd, for some reason I thought it would've just been broken for parts but I'm glad the beast is still alive. If you are the current owner give me a shout as I still have the spare key for it and all the service history, receipts etc cheers.
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    After a break of more years than I can remember. I took the plunge and bought an r32. Driving it home all I could think was. Hmmmmm I've missed this shit. !!!!
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    It was Dubsport's I think, Ian Birch build back in the day, Awesome were probably still in Rawtenstall back then with their Peachy mk1 clipper kitted VR6 - God I love a clipper kitted mk1! It was around the time video's were made via potatoes too!
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    Also work was carried out by midlands vw they have virtually brought my car back to life ..so anyone in the midlands go check em, and sorry for not introducing myself properly .. been a lurker since I got hold of my highline last year and this site has been a life saver ..anyway im luke and from the Midlands UK and absolutely love my first vr6..
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    Welcome to the club Storms. Nice motor. [emoji106]
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    Hi chap nice looking motor. If you would take the time to update the advert with a price or at least a price range in line with forum rules that would be great, Thanks
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    Hi guys i been speaking to the parts manager and if anyone wants a parts discount from the VW branch in swiss cottage finchely road Alan day volkswagen please ask for Jason,steve or james in the retail parts not the tps Parts This is where i work and can help out the VR6 boys and girls
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    Finally selling my Vr6 i've had this for about 6 years it's has been fully re-sprayed, suspension has been upgraded and brakes I have spent a lot of money on this car receipts to show drives lovely must be seen £1950ovno Located in North Wales
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    I got a few vr6 blocks mate I'll have a look tomorrow mate we're u based
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    This car is potentially sold. Deposit taken. Well worth every penny.
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    What are the symptoms you are experiencing? What lead you to change the cam Position Sensor? Do you have an error code from VagCom?
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    Likes: 7 Read more about the next generation VR6 engine. https://www.vr6oc.com/news.html/website/vws-new-496bhp-30-litre-vr6-engine-r12/ View on Instagram
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    I have the same problem the seals have gone on mine, but I won't part with it.
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    I have one but you need to buy the car to get it On the plus side it's an early grill which is like rocking horse poop
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    Thanks for the share mate! How awesome is that growing up around those builds...fantastic.
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    Cheers pal.. when I got the car there was slight score marks on rear tyres from rubbing on arches ..but now had a proper setup where now front and back are at correct height for best ride on our crap roads and no rubbing on any full lock... through front setup is slightly higher than the rear..all works and handles really well.. any ideas on how to refurbishment these tt comp alloys some curb marks and blemishes? ? Cheers luke
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    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58debcfc357ff/DSC_0047_1.JPG Before
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    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58debc92c258e/DSC_0170_1.JPG After
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    I remember the car. Saw it a couple times in the flesh so to speak but not sure where it is these days.
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    It's not really that to be honest - if you get dodgy injectors you could have fitment problems... fuel leak + hot engine = big expense! Linearisation problems over time means more tuning = more expense, one runs lean etc. You get a cheap wastegate and it put's too much boost through your set up and runs lean due to lack of fuel = big expense. Cheap turbo material spinning at tens of thousands of revs snaps off it's wheel and goes through your engine = big expense - that's the reasons people do it properly from the start really! If you're operating on a budget, then don't do too much on your engine first of all as I would be thinking it may be destroyed at any time, so nothing more than a spacer really or I'd usually plan for near a grand for a good refresh and strengthening of the engine. Injectors I wouldn't ever really skimp on to be honest, 2nd hand genuine from reputable seller at worst really, one of them leans out! - and wastegate's are for hot gasses so I would be wise there too as it could have a chain effect in destroying parts. You want to use a proper MAF as well as the cheap ones play up. So... I'd personally opt for a Holset HX35 12cm remanufactured for about £450, 38mm Turbosmart wastegate for £250 ish (or 2nd hand ones knock about from time to time) same for a 34mm Kompact recirc is a decent price at £120 ish and bigger than the 25mm ones, together with, (at least) genuine 2nd hand Bosch MAF and injectors (depending on your tuners parts used). So about a grand for that quality base to build around, then the misc items you mentioned - so £2k budget yet quality kit is easily achievable imo, then the big expense as you up the boost is engine and drive-train!
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    Rotrex C30-94 Complete kit, comes with 75mm pulley on the charger, oil cooler and oil filter, tensioner and bracket to fit 12v vr6 engine. All that is required is some oil and a belt. Also have a set of 440cc injectors and walbro fuel pump which can be negotiated as part of a deal Need a quick sale, if not gone within a few days I'll keep it! Collection from Luton
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    Just cams and exhaust. Stock air and everything. Waiting on finishing my caddy before I dive deep into the vr.
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    average time was just below 13, so the 12.5 may have been a good run, i had owned the car 5 years through many diff stages, and tbh ive been going to the pod since i passed my test , some 15-16 years ago, so im well versed in launching the car.