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Showing most liked content since 01/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Mulberry VR6

    Well here she is, hope you like.
  2. 1 point
    All parts ordered from Schimmel Performance middle of last year but didn’t end up fitting them, Parts are as follows; Ferrea - VR6 12v Stainless Highflow Intake/Exhaust Valves (+1mm oversized) x12 VR6 12v Heavy Duty Valve Springs Set VR6 12v Titanium Retainers https://www.vr6oc.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2019_01/Image1548105393.770677.thumb.jpg.2542667524564e5389896998609cc936.jpg[/url][/img][/url]
  3. 1 point

    Vr6 Corrado for sale

    On bids on Ebay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123634077616
  4. 1 point
    Does anyone know the dyno numbers for a mk4 vr6 24v 2.8 with the VF engineering stage 2 supercharger kit running 8 psi? if anyone has any input i would love to hear
  5. 1 point
    Thanks really appreciate it just such little information online
  6. 1 point

    My Corrado vr6 today.

    First time out of storage today for me ol Corrado in about a year. Done around 700 to 800 miles in last 8 years as second owner. Still on 67k
  7. 1 point

    Just bought a MK4 VR6

    Carry out a good service first, oil, filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, haldex oil and filter and have it scanned for fault codes. Then once that is completed upgrade the exhaust, fit an induction kit of some kind with a heat shield then its on to upgrading brakes and suspension
  8. 1 point

    97 Mystic Blue 5dr

    . Typed the reg plate in online and this pic came up
  9. 1 point

    Rotrex supercharging

    Thanks i will try them now
  10. 1 point
    VW Golf Mk3
  11. 1 point

    Project Ripped Off

    That sits really nicely [emoji106] think i remember this car in PVW in its previous guise
  12. 1 point

    Aquablasted engine parts

    Afternoon, got a few bits cleaned up but never fitted to the vehicle- all for OBD2. the pictures don't really do them justice, these things are IMMACULATE. Belt tensioner 021 145 299C - £45 Pulley alternator bracket 021280089A - £35 Power steering pump bracket 021145169D - £30 Cylinder head - originally done 135,000 .02 deck skim. Depending on what angle your valves are you may require getting new valve seats. £60 Collection from LN4 or postage at cost Picture
  13. 1 point
    Hello fellow VR6'ers... I am fairly new to the dam, I love my 2000 jetta, but she is a pain in the ass. I am open to new suggestions and ideas...
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Luke Jones

    New headlights and fog lights

    Finally got round to fitting these little beauty's
  16. 1 point
    Hi guys, Here are some photos of Leo and his slow progress since coming off the road in September 2014! I hope you like!! Please see my instagram for more photos @emmacorradovr6 Here is Leo when I first brought him! One of the first things I did was completely strip and clean his interior. I then stripped his wheels to brighten him up abit! Then came Air I brought my air suspension from my friend off of his Corrado Then Leo was off the road His engine was then removed and then we found the gearbox problem! Very broken 3rd gear!! this is thr engine before painting here is the painted engine and new painted gearbox the engine is back in now but nowhere near road ready! So the engine is coming out again and we will get the body ready for a re spray, build a rollcage and shave the engine bay! If you have any images or advise for me when shaving your vr6 bay please contact me!! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point

    VW Vento VR6 '94

    Here is my VR6. Original VR6 with swap 2.9 ABV.
  18. 1 point

    1997 golf vr6 project rebuild.

    All back seat done and grinded all rust out found another fairly big hole above where the fuel filter is so that's going to be fun cutting all that out and welding in a new piece! Oh and my rear window is going down but not going back up, think it's come off the runner so got to fix that again! Haven't got pictures but sprayed all the floor in primer just to protect it before sanding down again finishing off the welding re-painting with zinc primer then going to use shutz under seal to finish off, double protection from rust and has sound dreading properties so should be a little quieter and a lot stronger. On another note callipers and carriers and my braided brake hoses have literally just arrived so may have to go have a play and squeeze these monster 312's behind my bbs 16's! Like Christmas come early! Keep tuned for further updates over the coming weeks! Cheers K's guys and girls Aaron
  19. 1 point

    Ford Escort vr6.

    Last couple of weeks start too ending.
  20. 1 point
    I thought I'd chuck this together quickly, as I know the Mk3's suffer with the rust bubbles on the lower doors and 1/4 panels. Anyway, Over the weekend I've decided to fix the rust bubble/hole that had rusted through letting all the water inside the car. Everything I did was using any-day household tools and cans of spray not a compressor. I did forget to take a before picture, but believe me it was terrible! A circle bubbled up mess with a big rusty hole in the middle! First of all I had to grind out all of the rust, I did this by using a normal 110mm angle grinder with a metal grinding disc. Going very slowly I sanded back a square around the hole. The rusted bit was very bad so had to grind down until there was shiny metal and all the rust had been ground out. After doing this, the metal on the wing is super thin and not workable. The next step was to get a metal cutting disc and cut out a rough square in the 1/4 panel, which cuts all the remaining rust and metal that's useless away. I then slid a metal plate in from inside the car and just held it in place for a minute. This is what I was left with at this stage: The next step was to weld the super thin 1/4 panel to the metal plate from outside the car. The panel metal was so thin that it was horrible to weld and even on the lowest setting it was easy to blow holes. Either way I soldiered on and after doubling up and filling in all the holes, this messy weld is what you're left with. It's now time to grind it back, because the metal plate is behind the panel, nothing protrudes from the panel, so grinding back as much as possible without damaging the metal is a good idea. Here is the result. Now, the next bit is the body filler bit. However it seems I forgot to take any photo's as my hands were just white. Apply the filler in small amounts, and sand back using a flat block. Using you're hands will result in a rippled finished panel, which you don't want. Don't rush this step as this will make it look great, or crap! After a few hours of sanding and applying to build it up to it's finished standard, you can start thinking of paint. I started by masking off the square, wiping everything off with panel wipe then over with a quick layer of grey primer, and a quick layer of paint. After this dryed, I sanded it down with 800wet dry with warm soapy water. This was the result. After sanding down the rest of the panel, and masking everything off properly, it was time for the primer on the whole of the lower 1/4. Started with this... 1st layer on nice and thin, wait between layers and wiping everything off with panel wipe before spraying anything. 2nd layer And finally 3rd layer. After a quick going over with some 1200 wet dry, and some more panel wipe it was time for colour. Obviously spray cans aren't the best, but this shows exactly what you can do with them, and a lot of patience! With a layer of black on looking like it's stone chip! You think to yourself how can this possibly look any good! when that was tacky, another wipe over with panel wipe and a 2nd layer was lightly put on on top. Then comes the boring and very careful job of sanding the fresh paint down so it's all flat. Again it takes ages, and have to be very careful with the fresh paint. I used a 1500 wet paper and again with a flat block to do this. After this is all done, yet more panel wipe, and time for some clear lacquer. The 1st layer goes on and it doesn't look all that brilliant. I had a small halogen heater by the panel just so it was a bit warmer to spray, and hopefully make it dry a bit quicker without blowing dust onto it. The result of this... another coat after that, After that had dried for at least a few hours, I could then sand it down until all of the 'orange peel' was out of the lacquer, again, unfortunately I didn't take any pics with my hands being so wet and dirty. Again this was a super careful job, using 1500 again with lots of water until the panel was completely dull. Now it's time to mop the panel to the finish you want. I use a very light compound made by 3M called Finesse It. I've used it many times and think it's brilliant stuff. On setting 1, keeping the mop moving all the time, slowly buff the panel up to a shine. So there we have it, looks like new! Here are a few end result pictures. All I need now is some nice new sill covers as this one has separated away from the metal backing! Considering it's all done with spray cans, I can't complain about the finished result. And at least now I don't have a huge rusty hole in the side of the car! Hopefully this might inspire a few people to have a go themselves, however you do so at your own risk