FishWick
-
Content Count
2,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by FishWick
-
I honestly can't remember, LOL! I'll have a snout at mine and confirm later.
-
What size hot side does your T60-1 have? It's boost / torque that comes in too early which breaks gearboxes.
-
Long threads - block Short threads - Cap
-
Yep /\ It has internal modifications to improve the shift quality and has no speedo drive. And the mounting bracket is different, otherwise it's the same, LOL! I will probably just buy an 02M FWD casing and FWD CV flange from VW and make a decent FWD install out of it. Buying a used 02M 4WD trans and the FWD casing is still cheaper than importing a FWD 6 cyl O2M from the states!! Or I could just hook up a hall sensor to the CV bolts and just use it as it is with a standalone Speedo (or a GPS speedo / Satnav screen) since I don't use Motronic anymore :-)
-
Yeah, can't wait :-)
-
Cheers mate! I got it from Integrated Engineering in the States. www.intengineering.com It's a really well made peice Going to run 15psi for now and then 20psi when I've done the 02Q conversion. I'll be getting RaceLogic's Traction control box to help over winter and in the rain, but on dry days it should be immense Not sure on power / torque tbh, what ever comes from winding everything up, LOL!
-
Latest mod... 044 pump holder and 1.5 litre surge tank in one unit. As the pump is submerged in fuel, it reduces noise considerably! More pics to follow when it's fitted to the car. Have ordered some Bosch EV14 550cc injectors too as it's time to turn the boost up :-) http://www.sprayitracing.com/52lb%20Bosch%20EV14%20High%20Impedance.htm
-
Nice turbo :-) No you don't have to change the pistons for 400hp or under. Over 400hp, then I would personally.
-
Yeah I've heard the Zs are better. Eatons are good too as the boost comes in lower down. The Rotrex is also better than the Vortechs imo :-)
-
That twin GT3076 is immense! Great work (h) I bought one of those Integrated Engineering 044 surge tanks aswell :-d
-
Had the Vortech V9 kit on mine. Even with stage 3 (12psi), it was only making around 3 psi at 4000rpm and around 200lb torque. Now it makes double the torque at the same rpm from 13psi....and holds it to 7000rpm. Side by side and like for like boost wise, a VRT would annihilate a VR6 S/C if you mashed the gas pedal down at 3500rpm in 5th.
-
Nope. It's not about achieving a certain hp figure. A 200hp Turbo diesel drives completely differently to a 200hp NA motor, and it's the same with VRT versus VRS/C. You first need to decide what power delivery you want. The VRT has bags more torque everywhere and comes in earlier, AND, makes more power from the same boost and is easy to get more out of. Centrifugal S/Cs don't achieve peak boost until the red line, which for me as a daily driver, was useless, so I binned it and got a turbo and it's night / day faster.
-
I use ATP's 38mm to 44mm adapter on my ATP manifold. The hole in the adapter is about 40mm, so I opened up the manifold the same to match, which didn't take long. I just used a grindstone in a drill.
-
Yeah it's a lot cheaper if you do it all yourself.
-
Could be mate. The spring pressure doesn't always guarantee you'll see that boost on the guage, but I've tried a few in the TIALs and they've been spot on so far. It also depends where the control line comes from. It's less spikey if the control line is take from the turbo scroll than, say, the inlet manifold. It's not a major problem though and I prefer how it drives with the 44mm gate :-)
-
I can't help but agree the the design is a hard knock off of the tial' date=' but i don't see anything wrong with hat as the tial is very good: but it does look like the construction is just as good with minor improvements...check this link out http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2679371 [/quote'] Yeah I've seen that thread before. You'll notice the 2 important questions about country of manufacture and valve lift just aren't answered. Chinese copies like that cost $50 bucks to the trade, so they're going to big them up for sales and profits reasons. It is a good copy though, I'll
-
I'm not using electronic boost control but the wastegate spring is 190KPA. ECU sees 210KPA, but usually for less than a second. EGT has gone down using a bigger wastegate though. The Gizzmo MS-IBC has good closed loop boost control for the money, so I might give one of those a whirl.
-
Reliability is directly proportional to the money and effort investment put into it. My VRT travels up and down the country regularly and is used every day for work. It's currently done nearly 50K with no problems.... but it took a LOT to get it to where it is now.
-
I use a Tial 44m. I got spikes with the 38mm. And I mean spikes recorded by my ECU, not by looking at a heavily damped boost gauge. That Precision 46mm looks like a chinese fake to me.
-
If it's a standard engine mate, just stick with the factory air box and filter imo. If you want some noise, a foam or cone on the end of the MAF is the cheapest and easiest way to get that. If you want something that does perk up the throttle response a bit, whilst sounding sweet as a nut and not too intrusivem, then it has to be a BMC CDA imo :-) FWIW, I did a bit of experimenting on my turbo VR6 comparing a BMC, to a cone to the standard airbox with standard paper filter and the latter proved to the best believe it or not!
-
LOL /\, that's doing the rounds on other forums too :-) In short, the crappy electric chargers you see on ebay wouldn't blow over a drinking straw. But there is currently development in proper electric superchargers. You need a LOT of cfm to fill up a VR6 and those hairdryer things just won't do. But the problem with pushing huge airflow electrically is the massive load on the alternator, and therefore you would be better off with a mechanical charger.
-
As you are on OBD1, I would recommend you get Vince at Stealth to send you over a chip. His Motronic turbo maps are the best I've seen to date. You won't be wanting to splash out on a standalone as you've said you're on a budget, but they are great. Ignore the BS stories you hear about poor drivablilty, it's nonsense.
-
If it starts and drives normal, it's not the crank sensor. As I said, if you scan OBD1 with the engine off, you will get a crank error because the engine isn't turning. OBD2 was programmed to ignore it. OBD1 wasn't.
-
Ask Vince at Stealth mate. It's a custom made part for this application.
-
268s will work OK...at the expense of a bit of bottom end torque.
