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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Is there one for sale? Can't see it? I mentioned in a different thread, but you can convert it to FWD with the bell housing p/n - O2M 301 107G That housing uses the mechanical worm drive for the speedo, so job done! £300+VAT though. But, I got <1000 mile MK5 box for £200, making £500 for an OE FWD 6 cyl 6 speed box quite cheap overall. Costs 3 times that just for a gearset for the O2A. When 4 motion box supplies dry up, it may be our only option, unless someone comes up with a circuit to convert an ABS sensor signal into one the mph guage can understand. Or it might even be possible t
  2. FishWick
    Yep, that's correct and the dutchdub bracket doesn't fit it either.
  3. FishWick
    Yeah, so any O2M car (S3, Leon Cupra R, R32 etc) can donate it's inner CVs and you can use MK3 or MK4 outer CVs, but it's just the shaft joining them together that I'm not sure about! Anyway, for today's 'lesson' then, O2M gearboxes, LOL! :-) You can't fit 02M gears into an O2A unfortunately, the gears are physically too big and and there's too many of them! What I was referring to in that thread was recasing a 4WD O2M into a FWD one :-) 4WD O2Ms are the only choice we have unfortunately, but you can buy a FWD O2M bell casing from the dealer oddly enough, and then rehouse the gears from the
  4. FishWick
    Yeah but bear in mind the DSS ones can handle 475whp, which for £500 I think is quite reasonable personally :-) I have heard of an Audi S3 inner CV plus MK7 Polo GTI shaft and Outer combo, or something along those lines, and some rumours of shortening and what not. I'd rather fit new shafts than cut and shut old ones personally! Hopefully MaidenVR6 will chime in as I know he's fitted an O2M.
  5. FishWick
    You can tell by the throttle elbow it has fitted. The rest of the manifold is universal.
  6. FishWick
    Can't say fairer than that guys. He's been my 'Uncle Vince' for 10 years now and kept me sane!! :-) Fook hasn't that 10 yrs flown by? I think we should start dropping the uncle stuff now... suddenly I'm feeling old and I'm only 39 yrs and about 1370 days old :-* It certainly has! Good to see you back into Turbos again though :-) Looking forward to the 24V kits! I might leave my 24V engine install for a bit then ;-)
  7. FishWick
  8. FishWick
    Indeed, although to be fair, the Walbro doesn't have the return line input like the stock pump does. It's tricky to explain without pics but the factory swirl pot does not work with these pumps. We have to rely on sitting it low enough in the housing, but provided you don't hammer it round bends when below 1/4, you should be fine :-) I mentioned this to Vince a while ago but he hasn't got round to figuring out a solution yet, but basically the pump needs a different end on it so that the factory swirl return can squirt back into the pump pick up.
  9. FishWick
    At that price, I'd take a look at this - http://www.fuel-pumps.net/walbro-forgeries.html
  10. FishWick
    Mine keeps running way into the red. Something's not right there.
  11. FishWick
    Bear in mind a diff puts strain back into the box again (where it would normally spin away harmlessly) so you need a little mechanical sympathy when nailing the gas pedal, and pay attention to the road surface. Boosting over rough, uneven roads can cause sudden loss and regaining of grip, which is what tends to bust things......and also aggressive launching in the dry! I guess an uprated clutch with just a little slip in it can also help take some strain off the box. The O2M conversion is a wise move for Stage 2 and above in my opinion. I'm hoping to work on that with Vince's help in the
  12. FishWick
  13. FishWick
    /\ likewise, LOL! The stock intake can be used because of the SPA turbo exhaust manifold. It mounts the turbo nice and low, which can only be a good thing in terms of weight distribution too? I've seen the SPA manifold on Vince's car and it's nothing like the pieces of crap I was sold from IBIVR on here. It's the real deal :-) Short runners are OK and easier for boost plumbing, but that would add a lot of extra cost to the kit and you also lose some torque around 3000rpm.
  14. FishWick
    This is a great kit for the money and it only needs 9psi to make that 360hp :-)
  15. FishWick
    The 1/4 tank thing just depends on how high you mount the pump in the factory swirl pot. Some people set it to high. I used a Walbro GSS340 in mine and it's fine with a bar of boost and below 1/4 tank.
  16. FishWick

    Cams etc

    FishWick replied to SamboVr6's topic in Engine Tuning

    If staying NA, I would go 268. I love how VR6s become a big 16V with those cams :-) They're fine with boost aswell, just in case you change your mind and go FI. As mentioned already, the biggest gains in acceleration come from a shorter final drive, but that'll eat into your redundancy money a fair chunk unfortunately.
  17. FishWick
    I ran a 2.25" SuperSprint on my first turbo setup with no cat and that was OK actually. From 10-15psi I'd favour 2.5" to be honest and over 15psi I'd look into going 3". At the 18-20psi level, the Americans find 40-50whp just from going to 3", from 2.5". I would go 3" if the end result was no louder than my 2.5", but that could be hard to achieve, I can't stand exhaust droning. Sounds chavy and does my head in. The car is quick enough with a 3" CAT and 2.5" exhaust as is :-)
  18. FishWick
    The motor cover doesn't have a drain hole in it, so water collects and starts rusting out the bearings, so they start to squeal after a while.....and then just die completely. The General CAB ones are exactly the same as SPAL, but have said drain holes and better quality motors.
  19. FishWick
    Yeah I use an 11" and a 9", both for the main radiator. The AWIC doesn't need fan cooling because the heat exchanger is front of the main rad :-) Go with "General CAB" fans from revotec, or Kenlowe. Spal are crap. One 11" just about does the job in summer, but 2 are best.
  20. FishWick
    On a standard or mildly modified (zorst and filters etc) engine, nope, it's not :-)
  21. FishWick
    Unless the engine is physically revving to those rpms, it can't really be anything else. Mine would stick at, say 4000rpm, when slowing down, so even when idling it was showing 4000 :-) It would also move slowly occasionally and stick at all sorts of random speeds. Replacing the RPM driver really isn't difficult mate, if that's what it is....
  22. FishWick
    Good man! I'm impressed with this though I have to say - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4732458 621whp on a 2.8 24V @ 28psi (GT35R 1.06 AR)!! Mind you, that's on race gas and only 1 run. Less impressive is the 200ish lb/ft fall in torque from 5300 to 7000rpm though. You always expect torque to fall away at the 5252rpm cross-over, but that does seem drop a lot, especially for a 1.06 back housing on a 2.8. Maybe the 24V head needs and even bigger back housing!!! :-)
  23. FishWick
    Most short runners available are 'too short'' date=' LOL! That is to say the runner length is tuned to an rpm the engine isn't capable of. Schimmel's runner length, apparently is tuned to 20,000rpm!! Not deliberately, but due to the space restrictions etc etc, that's what he ended up with. I've been talking to a guy in America making his own intake which features some VERY nice runner tuning and a good plenum shape. He will be doing a back to back dyno test of his intake versus Schimmel's soon and we're expecting to see some fairly tasty gains in midrange torque. Watch this space. If
  24. FishWick
    I had that problem a few years ago and the rpm driver in the clocks failed. It was £25 from the dealer for a new one and you just take the clocks apart and replace it. It's quite a rare problem.
  25. FishWick
    Should be OK. I know there's an old AMD map kicking around on ebay sold chips at the moment, which many people have good luck with.
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