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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. Interesting reading your findings. My Corrado VR6 box and change is sweet as a nut. It has the slickest, lightest and most positive change I've ever experienced, except the Honda Civic Type R which has a truly awsome gear change. Good engine mounts improve the change significantly as does a nice bit of teflon lube on the cables.
  2. OE metal with Pagid fast road pads is a top match. G&S sell Brembo OE discs which are apparently very good too. Green stuff is not nice stuff imo.
  3. Easy job to do. Just stick some corks in the hoses as you disconnect them. Run the engine with the expansion cap off until the thermostat opens, allow the trapped air to escape. Drive the car for 20 mins or so, top up in the morning. If you can't get rid of the air lock, drain the coolant and do a refill with G12+. Don't overdo the mixture ratio, 75 water to 25 G12 is plenty for the UK. Too much glycol reduces the water's ability to absorb heat. Make sure you pour the coolant in via the rad top hose and not the expansion tank otherwise you'll introduce air to the block/head galleries. Kev
  4. Star performance is your best bet for your region. Piggybacks are OK if you plan on constant tuning as once it's in, it's just a matter of an hour's dyno time. With hard coded chips, you need to change it each time. The only thing I don't like about piggybacks is the fact they hack into the MAF sensor loom. Messy. ECU chips have a faster response time too since the data is read and adapted in the brain as opposed to an offboard box.
  5. R32 conversion in the Corrado I think, less the winky DSG box and a 911 (993 model year) bi-turbo as a daily driver.
  6. Mine drinks about a litre every 3000. VW say 1 litre per 1000 as a worst case scenario to stop people ringing them up complaining of high oil consumption. Obviously they can't guarantee any particular engine will use a certain amount as some people drive hard and others drive slowly.
  7. Koni TAs all round, H&R springs & Neuspeed Anti-roll bars = :-)
  8. Hmmmm....I hate induction noise. VR6s sound classier with the standard breathing apparatus. They sound too basmati for liking when messed about with.
  9. Not on mine but a Friends' Corrado G60 did the same (same 02A gearbox) and swapping out the sender cured it. I'm sure it was only £14 or something and 15 mins work with a spanner.....
  10. Upper chain rails are £7 from the dealer.
  11. Try changing out the speedo transponder. Lives at the back of the gearbox with a multiplug connected to it. They're less than £20 from the stealer.....
  12. Any tried the solid polymer upper blade with sring loaded/hyrdaulic tensioner bolt as replacements? I know they're from the very late 12V VRs the Americans got in their MK4s, but the basic dimensions seem to be the same. I bought a new upper blade the other day, and to be honest, looking at it....I don't want to put it in. Doesn't look like it'll last 5 minutes....but it will, just looks like it won't!. I notice VW have changed the bakelite coloured plethyronic (sp?) coating with some new grey stuff....not sure if it's any better tho. K [ Edited Mon Mar 22 2004, 12:46PM ]
  13. Hi I put a new tensioner bolt in my Corrado over the weekend due to the old one's leaking piston. Wasn't holding hyrdaulic pressure at high rpms. They're £23+VAT Anyway, best wire for bleeding is the centre core of some satellite/TV cable, or 22AWG if you want to be really precise! The new bolts come fully retracted from VW and this would indicate it's plug and play but as Jules said, there is a risk of cam jumpage. Mine didn't jump but it's a risk you take. I would fill the bolt with and bleed it set to 1" exposed length, this enough to give the upper blade a little tension and enough slack
  14. Sheesh your lucky you have such good temps. There's bugger all room in a Corrado and as such the engine runs a LOT hotter, about 114C on part throttle at 80mph. I had to install a Mocal oil cooler to get my temps down to the 90s! So anything under 100 or slightly over when booting it is fine. K
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