FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Not a good idea using MAP as the only load. If the sensor dies, you have no way to drive the engine. I don't know how transient fuelling is supposed to work without knowing pedal speed either (ie. TPS) but I'm no megasquirt expert :-)
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What is the difference between vag com and a diagnostic machine?
FishWick replied to VR6-DUB's topic in Engine Tuning
The benefit of VAG-COM is it translates the codes into English for you. A lot of the dealer type diag machines just throw a code, which they have to look up in a book, LOL! -
Cheers chaps. I'm going to derform the threads on the studs so that they can't wind out of the manifold and then go with the copper /' steel nuts, 2 washers and the lock tabs. That should do it :-)
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Yo fella turbo nutters.... Have any of you had problems with the turbo flange bolts / nuts coming loose? Mine was making a weird wheezing noise under boost the other day. Got it home to investigate and found the turbo was so loose it had a 2mm gap between it and manifold The bizarre thing is other than the noise, you would never know! It was still quick and smooth etc. With most of the exhaust pressure escaping BEFORE the turbine, I really don't get that, but never mind. At least it wasn't another wrecked compressor wheel, which was my first thought. One smashed turbo makes you paranoid
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Mr Boost Pipe, LOL! I wondered who that was! Diablocustomz, the T peice came with a big order of bits from America when I got my parts originally, but C2 Motorsports sell them, or ATP etc - http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-010&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
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LOL, I've seen 60, 70, 75 and now 80lbft quoted for the same bolts and application. Good old internet! 75lb I did mine up to. Retorqued again after 500 miles (cyl1 had come loose slightly) and since then it's been fine.
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I've got a genuine ATP manifold and a fake one and quality wise, they're about the same. ATP's $350 manifold is cast at the same place as the $100 ebay ones, i.e. they're both of chinese origin. I've had a genuine ATP warp on me and I've seen a few with the stud holes drilled in the wrong place. The best quality one out there is probably the Kinetic Motorsport one.
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Or if they want your chipped ECU (and a stealth map is a good selling point), make sure you tell them it's OBD2 only and you could swap their standard ECU for your chipped one, so long as the model is exactly the same.
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Good to know /\ Well if my Carrot GT35 ever fails, I'll be trying a Holset :-)
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Think he's running 1.5 bar
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So long as the screamer isn't in the engine bay, it's fine. Fires have been known to start from engine bay screamers, not to mention dangerous levels of Carbon monoxide entering the cabin! But I don't think any of us are daft enough to do that. I saw it on the Vortex - enough said, LOL! :-) This 1.8T GT3071, is it in a MK2 Golf? I sold my old 3071 to a chap with a MK2 1.8T. Making something like 450 horse or something. Sweet :-) The pavement law sounds a bit odd. It depends on what side of the road you're driving on, surely? I've seen Caterhams with side exist exhaust on either side
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GSR are defo right on the wastegate though, the bigger, the better :-) I just learned Holset is a British company....
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Are you running the standard gearbox mate? Seems to be holding up well :-)
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£450 for a new Holset! Wow, I didn't know they were THAT cheap! I could be very tempted by a HX40 if my GT35 ever lets go. The diesel temp thing is something I read on another site. Whether it's true or not I dunno. I guess we all fall victim to misinformation. It's impossible to predict how long these things last. As I keep saying, making the power is the easy bit. Even a £200 chinese turbo can make 1000hp, but for how long? :-) That seems like a good site. Perhaps a little TOO focussed on accusing the big names of being lyers and over priced for my tastes (did you notice their BOV
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Garrett is getting old, LOL! :-) Turbos have been around since World War 1! The GT35 is hardly old and it still does a perfectly good job :-)
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Yeah the 12V VR6 just hits a flow brick wall at around 250 crank power, no matter what pistons and crank throw you use. Best power normally aspirated would be the 24V, either 2.8 with R32 head or straight R32. Stick cams in it, remap the VVT and increase the rev limit and you should be knocking on the doors of 300 crank power. You will never close to that from a NA 12V :-) If you want to stick to 12V (it is a stronger engine than 24V), CCH heads are nice though - http://scch-heads.com/viewhead2.php?id=30
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That they are, but I'm getting lazy in my old age. I'd rather run less boost and hang onto 1 engine for a bit longer :-)
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Yip, but he's running a Rotrex which pushes a lot more boost than the Vortechs :-)
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Yep. Or Delphi 440s.
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Yep, you pull apart the VW gasket (I drilled out the brass rivets at each end), bin the middle bit and then use the outer 2 layers with the spacer plate :-)
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Hi mate, I just used a C2 Motorsports spacer plate. Can't remember how thick it was, but it dropped the CR to around 8.5:1 You will need a 3 layer gasket to go with it.
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Good man :-) I would be fitting a pressure sensor in the coolant system if it were me, but then I like my gadgets :-)
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