FishWick
-
Content Count
2,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by FishWick
-
I like that /\. Decent runner lengths for good torque. Would work even better with internal trumpets and the rear 3 being longer than the front 3.....
-
Yeah recircs are for Motronic boys. I use a MAP sensor :-)
-
Traction control would be useful too!
-
-
I think the C2 chips are £350 mate. Are you running OBD2? 15 psi is nice! 9-11 psi is quick, but 15psi is REALLY quick :-) I didn't see a fuel pump on your list, but you'll definitely need one. I don't think an external pump is necessary for your power goals, so a nice Walbro GSS340 in tank will do just fine.
-
VW dealer prices last time I checked:- OBD1 Idle Valve (Bosch 3 pin) - ~ £120 OBD2 throttle (built in idle motor) - ~ £300 For the spark plugs, I find stock Audi TT (225ps) plugs work well for boost. If you want something a little colder, the NGK BKR7IEX is good, but quite expensive. Good cheap plugs are the NGK R5671A-7 and the BKR7E.
-
Personally I would take s/hand branded parts over the ebay stuff' date=' so long as they're in good nick. I've seen GT35Rs come up for sale with <1000 miles on them for £400 - £500. That's a £1000 turbo new :-) Depends on the brands! If it's £100 for a TIAL wastegate and BOV, then yeah, good prices! How much boost are you wanting to run? And bear in mind turbo boost is nothing like S/C boost. Once you have a turbo on there, you WILL want to keep turning the boost up. Small turbos tend to run out of puff easily, and the last thing you want is a wheezy little 1.8T kind of power
-
Couldn't agree more sir. As already said, a lot of the parts - if not all of them - are chinese made and to give the seller his dues, he is taking a small margin on them, which partly explains the low cost of the kit. Whilst I'm not against chinese cloned parts, just be mindful of the fact they don't go through the same rigourous testing programs as the genuine parts and aren't made to industry standards, such as German TUV, British Kite mark and so on, which is why they're so cheap. They rely on the parts they are copying to have gone through all that already, and so long as they copy the
-
It certainly will be a daily drive if mapped nicely. Power from 8psi usually gives over 300hp with a turbo. I've run 10-15psi daily for 3 years and it's fine so long as you're sensible with the throttle in bad weather.....not that you get that in Egypt? :-)
-
Your 91 Octane is probably equivalent to our 95, and therefore on stock compression and internals, I wouldn't run any more than 8psi personally. And you need to make sure that is a rock solid 8psi. If you have poor boost control and it spikes to considerably more than 8psi, you might put a hole in one or more pistons before the knock control has a chance to prevent it. Fit an uprated fuel pump aswell. Walbro GSS340 works well and can support 500 crank hp.
-
They're 11" and 9", side by side. 9" on the nearside due to the throttle being very close to the radiator, otherwise I would have used two 11" fans. Wiring is easy, just join the two positives together and connect to fan speed 1 wire on your radiator sender, and then a ground on the block somewhere.
-
Some better pics of that one here - http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-177&Category_Code=AUDIVW-DP Could work but it might interfere with the RHD steering UJ / rack....
-
I've used the Flexi horizontally and at 45 degrees, doesn't seem to make any difference. I know flex bellows aren't designed to carry exhaust weight, but I've looked under many cars and they vary from vertical, horizontal, 45 deg, 60 deg etc etc so there's no set rules surround that mate, don't worry about it :-) So long as it's the start of the exhaust system and not too far down, you'll be fine. That ATP one when installed sets the flexi at 40ish deg I believe. Yeah I think that DP is missing a WG input as you say! Custom is the only way to ensure a good fit. Buying one off the shelf a
-
It was this one I asked Bill about - http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/product.php?productid=732&cat=409&page=1 He said they cut the 4 bolt flange off and fit a V band ring and they have to also bend it or something as it hits the gearbox.
-
I spoke to Schimmel about ATP's downpipes and they're not a direct bolt on apparently, they still need a bit of modification to fit properly. Good call on the that company though. Nice to see some US parts made available in the UK at reasonable prices.
-
8 - 10 amps usually....
-
-
Yep /\ The 3.68 diff from the Corrado G60 works extremely well on the VR6.
-
I think the stock amplifier uses variable dwell, but no higher than 3ms. Yep, that was 2500 microseconds, or 2.5ms, I used with the MSD coils. I emailed MSD technical and that's the dwell they recommended.
-
Effect gain with 2.9 inlet and cams on a 2.8?
FishWick replied to Danny Salling's topic in Engine Tuning
I have 2.9, OBD1 2.8 and OBD2 throttles at home and the OBD2 is definitely the smallest. My OBD1 2,8 and 2.9 have the same size plate, so I don't know what throttles you got in Europe. Didn't know that about the cams though, good to know for future reference! -
Effect gain with 2.9 inlet and cams on a 2.8?
FishWick replied to Danny Salling's topic in Engine Tuning
2.8 and 2.9 cams are identical. The 2.9 has a higher rev limit though, and a higher flowing inlet manifold. Throttle plate size on OBD1 2.8 and 2.9 is the same. 2.8 throttle has a ramp in it to speed up gas flow at low rpm and the 2.9 is the same bore all the way through, but has a dual stage opening mechanism to mimic the 2.8's ramp behaviour. OBD2 throttle plate is the smallest and has the same inlet as the OBD1 2.8. Many people prefer the torquier delivery of OBD2 with it's 'restricive' intake parts. I know I do :-) -
No worries mate. Surprised C2 hadn't replied already since there could be a sale in it for them :-) Give them a ring mate, they can probably even supply you with the hardware you need!
-
For your proposed spec, all you need is the loom, ECU, throttle body and MAF. C2 delete the immobiliser (if required) in the software, so you don't need the transponder, key or key reader. The ECU will also need a 44 pin socket soldering onto the motherboard. If the loom is going into another MK3, then it's plug and play. If you're putting the loom into any other car, then you'll need to sort out the duplicated wires and also the lengths. Some wires will need lengthening, some will need shortening. Fuseboards are the same across all MK2s and MK3s, so the loom just plugs into your existing o
-
-
I hate to say it, but put "OBX lsd" into Google and check out the results. It's not good! I think you've been lucky with yours! I personally don't think the Quaife and Peloquin are unreasonable money for what they give in return. Anything that involves taking the gearbox apart, then I only want the best in there cause I'm not taking it off again to replace sub-standard parts :-)
