FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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£420!!! Jesus!
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They stopped making the GT3582R? Is it a GTX now? Such a great snail on my VR6. Perfect torque band for a road car, which doesn't kick in so quickly it strips the teeth off 5th gear, which is something to consider when choosing a quick spooling turbo. I tried a couple of GT30Rs as well, GT3071R & GT3076R with 0.82 T3 housings. Both of them were done by 5800rpm. 35R carries on past 6K. Maybe with a 1.06 housing the smaller units would fair better up top, but it's a lag compromise thing, as is a huge front mount vs air-water cooling.
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Please identify this coil pack!
FishWick replied to ssaunders's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
The coils are fired from the Emerald's internal amps, hence bypassing the ICM. Did the same with my DTA, worked fine. It's a standard coilpack mate. -
Sounds like it's either going lean or could spark issues. Have you got an AFR gauge in the car?
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Fair enough mate The MSD coils are huge though! Yes they weren't as reliable as the stock coils. 2 failed on me. Gave up on importing them after that and I noticed no difference what so ever using them either. People use them because they can run a bigger spark, but it makes no difference. Stock coils with suitable plugs gapped properly is all you need. Just like you burn a house down with a match, if the air/fuel ratio is correct, you only need a small spark to ignite it The Bosch coilpack worked well for me over 60K miles with a turbo. It doesn't crack like the original VR6 on
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I ran the MSD coils and they weren't really worth the hassle imo. I ended up using one of these, which fits into the stock coilpack's ally cradle with some very minor modifications. https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/bosch-motorsport-ignition-p-113.html
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850-900 isn't too bad, just watch it doesn't climb too far past 1000 on boost. Try adding a bit more cruise timing if you want the egts a bit lower. For example, on my VR Turbo with flat top 8.5:1 forged pistons, I was able to run 40 deg advance at low loads at 80ish mph. That knocked the EGTs down a bit. Stock timing is around mid 30s up there, but is 10:1 CR. There's a fine line with EGTs. Running rich can increase them, running too lean can increase them, you just need to find the sweet spot with the right AFR and timing.
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Stealth Racing recently mapped a standard MK5 engine to 290hp. Admittedly it was in a Corrado though, and they did say that was a little higher than what they normally see, but it's possible. 300hp is a stretch without cams and probably a short runner intake. The standard intake is the main bottle neck on this engine.
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As nice as a GT35 is, if I did mine again, I'd go with the EFR 7670 as it's a better turbo for packaging. By the time you've spent money on a decent external WG and DV for the GT35, the EFR works out a lot cheaper! Very good turbos from what I've read too.
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Traction is a problem in the wet, even with a diff, but it's by no means unusable on the road. Just have to be smooth with the throttle and roll into the boost rather than nailing in 1st and 2nd! Having said that, 3rd & 4th and even 5th can break traction on the move if the torque curve is spikey. I had my standard VR6 box rebuilt at 130K (new bearings, syncros etc) and then did a further 60K with a turbo and it survived just fine. I was only putting 350lbft through it though + some mechanical sympathy. Avoid nailing the gas on uneven road surfaces because it's the shock of regainin
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If I was to do it all over again, I would get Mahle 142S pistons with 23mm wrist pins and find a machine shop that can replicate the factory honing - with a torque plate. That will give you a nicely sealed and very strong bottom end.
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No chance with a 12V! Many people have tried over the years and I think 240ish was the most, which consisted of a 3.1 block, cams, big valve head etc etc.
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Low comp on NA will run fine, but engine braking will suffer a bit and it won't feel as lively at the bottom end.
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Agreed on the 0.82 for a more user friendly torque curve. 1.06 has a better top end though and there's approx. 500rpm spool up difference between the two, so 3500 vs 4000rpm to see full boost. 4000rpm is a little late for my tastes, but with the 1.06 it'll pull to the redline harder, but you've only got a 3000rpm window. I also tried a GT3071R and a GT3076R, both 0.82. Both are gearbox killers (5th especially as it's the smallest gear) and both run out of puff far sooner than the GT3582R does. Figure out what kind of torque band you want and choose from there. Don't just buy on a whi
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Standard engine? They do run pig rich from cold and 10 doesn't sound too far off from memory. Are you letting the AEM warm up for a couple of minutes before cranking it over, as it takes time for the O2 heater to get it up to temp?
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VRT running rich at idle, lean under boost
FishWick replied to trentster_08's topic in Engine Tuning
Leaks upstream of the O2 sensor can cause it to over fuel, but as you're running OBD2, check the measuring blocks in VCDS to see how much the O2 is adding at idle. If it's a very small number (talking 1-2%, which is normal) then the problem is elsewhere. FWIW, I had the same tune on my UK OBD2 engine. 4" MAF, 42lb injectors, C2. I had exactly the same problem. I was seeing 14.7 AFR in boost and it didn't drop to 12-11.5 AFR until 5500ish rpm and pedal to the floor. Luckily I was running 8.5:1 forged pistons otherwise serious detonation would have occurred. Never got to the bottom of i -
/\ This is true. One of the reasons rods bend is because excessive back pressure fills a cylinder and almost 'hydro-locks' the piston....and something has to give....usually the rod. Seen plenty of S shaped ones come out of big turbo 1.8Ts that use sh1tty manifolds that don't flow enough.
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If you still use the standard MAF and MAP with 440s, it will over-fuel like f'ck. Fit a 4" MAF housing and it will run better, but it will still need to be mapped. If you need to drive it somewhere to get mapped, refit the standard injectors and don't let the turbo go into boost. Keep the engine load light and the revs down and it shouldn't boost up.
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They will....providing the overlap forced induction friendly. Schrick 268s are OK. 263s better. As for valves, I fitted a Schimmel head with +1mm oversize Inconel valves, a set of 263s and running exactly the same boost pressure (11psi, GT35R) I found an extra 50hp, so breathing mods can and do work.
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In the same way a bath would take forever to fill up if using 15mm basin plumbing and tap
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Don't have the car anymore but I left it with the RX8 injectors (500cc Densos) and the Walbro drop-in. The idle quality with those, Schimmel 263 cams and his short runner was the smoothest I've ever experienced on any 12V engine, standard or otherwise! Not familiar with the Black Ops, I've been out of the game for a few years now. Are they a modified EV14? I did try some 550cc EV14s (modded by US tuners, not direct from bosch) and below 2ms, they got a lil lumpy in the idle, so I had to increase the idle speed to 850rpm to hold 2ms and a smooth 14.7 AFR. That's the problem with large i
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Yeah standard Edition 30s are mapped very flat. Remapped, completely different animal and VERY fast. Yeah Stealth's demo car made 360hp from 9psi iirc. My own build made 392hp from 11psi (GT35R). Why is that so hard to believe? You take a standard VR6 engine that makes 200hp from one atmosphere. Force another atmosphere in and you get another 200hp. Seems fairly logical to me and the dyno plots seem to back that up, but some engines make more from less, especially if you factor in cams and more aggressive tuning.
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I used Mazda RX8 injectors and the usual Walbro 255l/h drop in. That lot was fine for 400hp and those injectors had the best atomisation available at the time (circa 2010), which is important if you want a smooth idle and low speed manners with short runners (slower gas speeds at low rpms). I also tried an IE external surge tank with an 044 in it and it was noisy as hell, but such things are subjective I suppose.
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Map sensor probably. As said already, it's best to choose an ECU that your tuner has knowledge of, or learn how to map it yourself like I did Lugtronic gets massive praise in America but I doubt it's anything better than what's already available. The Stock ECU is fine with boost anyway, so be sure it's a path you want to go down first.
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The Brake Servo vac line already has a one way valve in it, but ForgeMotorsport sell an uprated one if that takes your fancy. I never had any issues in my VRT with the standard arrangements. I don't like the ebay short runners personally, especially the ones with a bit of 3" tube welded onto stock runners. Avoid. You want something with a decent plenum size and ideally a new casting so that you don't get any warped runners (from welding heat) causing leaking gaskets.
