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Everything posted by FishWick
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Basic kit without launch control is £600ish inc VAT. Yes it's a complete kit with hardware and software. Connects to factroy ABS sensors and Injector harness. 5 or 6 of us bought the kit recently in a Stealth Racing group buy. It does make a difference. At GTI international this year, a 400hp Stealth built Corrado VRT with Racelogic pulled a 5 second 0-60, beating a 540hp VRT with no Traction control by nearly 2 seconds, to the same speed.
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Next on the list is to fit these 550cc Bosch EV14 injectors. Easily the best injectors on the market today... ..and here's why. They atomise right off the tip for a super fine spray :-) And then Racelogic traction control. After last year's winter, it's really needed!! :-) Thanks to Vince we got 10% off!
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Been offered a low comp forged and rebuilt engine, should I buy it?
FishWick replied to ASHLEYG's topic in Engine Tuning
Yeah the Wossners were £750 on their own when I bought mine. ARP bolts another couple hundred, plus the head rebuild... it's a steal! What compression ratio is it? You won't notice a huge drop in acceleration with low comp normally aspirated to be honest. -
No worries with starvation! If you use the part numbers listed, it will all work perfectly A 12V dipstick will probably be OK, but you may need to recalibrate the min and max marks.
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Schrick 268s noticably blunted my car's <4000rpm torque. But 4000 onwards was fun fun fun Ideally with those you need the Schrick intake to get the torque back, but it's fruitin expensive. I imported 50-60 sets of Schimmel 263 cams a couple of years ago for Group Buys and not one single person complained of a lack of torque after fitting them. They are a great cam. I have no idea what these Neuspeed 268s are like, but i suspect they are made by Techtonics Tuning. They make quite a few of the cams for the American brands. £168 sounds like a stock clearance price to me, but as a bran
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Hi Thanks mate It's just a case of buying the bits and plonking them on. OK there's a bit more involvement with the mapping side of things but there are a few companies around that can help with that! If you want to learn some general boost knowledge, I really like this site - http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/ It's not VW specific but the guy knows his stuff and talks at a level we can understand, it's well worth a read if you find the time!
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I just use the site as it is and zoom in :-) I upgraded to IOS 4.1 last night. There's some proximity sensor improvements and some other signal related stuff, plus a new HDR camera mode. Don't understand what it does but the pictures seem better using it!
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Running Vista by any chance? It's the Apple device driver. Got the same issue with mine. After pulling out and reconnecting the phone's USB lead a few times, it finally registers with the PC and iPrunes can then see it. Had the iphone 3G and now a 4 and love them both. Not had any problems with either, but then again I rarely use it as a phone, just texts and app store browsing, LOL! :-)
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Ebay - "High Flow Inlet Manifold" & Stroker Crank
FishWick replied to donpulsar's topic in Engine Tuning
I know of someone who used the ABT crank and it needed a spacer aswell as shaved pistons, and even then the compression was a shade over 10:1 if I remember. As Lukey says, a combination of shaved pistons with a bigger bowl (12V VR6 has a flat head) and offset wrist pins should set you up for boost with that crank. Same process is required for the R32 crank. As far as I know, the 12 and 24V big end and main journals are the same, so will interchange, it's just the stroke (in the case of the 3.2) that differs. Something to bear in mind if you're going boost is the stroker crank will limit th -
Ebay - "High Flow Inlet Manifold" & Stroker Crank
FishWick replied to donpulsar's topic in Engine Tuning
The intake is basically just a cheap copy of Schrick's upper section and won't gain you much. The spacer plate with the stroker crank is to account for the extra 5mm of stroke, so lifts the head accordingly, although it doesn't tell you how thick it is or what the compression ratio will be with it. Personally I'd do it properly with 5mm shorter conrods, but that can get a tad expensive! That ABT crank was a rare old beast back in the day. If you can get it for a song, go for it, otherwise you'd be better off just using an R32 crank from a scrapper engine. -
My missus has a Polo GTI and it has the best shift I've felt of any MK4 platform car and the best 1.8T mapping of them all too. At some point I will take the airbox off it and see which bits need to transfer across to the Corrado / MK3 02A. You can do full bore 1st, 2nd and 3rd shifting in that, which has mega soft mounts, just slots in with no resistance.
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VR6s have tall gearing which does make them feel sluggish low down in the revs. That is easily, although not cheaply, fixed with a shorter final drive. It's only the worn and knackered shift cables etc that cause a rubbish gearshift, but the main reason the shifts can't be rushed is due to excess engine movement and the fickle O2A shift tower. The shift can be massively improved by fitting the very latest 02J shifter from the Polo GTI (mk7).
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sound of a turbo VR with the boost turned down or off
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
Indeed....boost with no boost, as it were, is just a massive restriction. You would HAVE TO run at least some of the boost to get back the power you'd lose spinning the turbine wheel.....even if it's just 6psi or something. And by that I mean having to pull the timing back at wide open throttle to account for the exhaust back pressure in head. And zero boost would mean removing the spring and valve from the wastegate so all the boost goes straight out of the exhaust, but you'll get a little creep at the top end. Totally pointless and could actually damage the turbo :-) -
That's actually a good mate, but it depends how well the resin bonds onto the plastic runners and plenum. I suspect with the heat and constant plenum flexing, the resin will eventually unstick itself from the manifold. What we need is an ally replica of the plastic one, but the variable runners will prove a little tricky.
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sound of a turbo VR with the boost turned down or off
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
Yes that is what I meant, below atmospheric, the VR6 still sounds like a VR6 (induction roar), ignornig exhaust tones and the turbo etc. It's the short runner VR6s that have zero intake snarling. Doesn't bother me as I've never thought the VR sounded anything special anyway, it's just the smoothness and performance that interest me :-). -
Top 3 all have a good reputation. The bottom 2, you chance it.
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sound of a turbo VR with the boost turned down or off
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
It's the inlet manifold that makes a VR6 sound like a VR6. If you keep that, it will still sound like a VR, turboed or not. As said already, the exhaust will sound a bit different because of the turbine wheel. -
Manifold - 250 Turbo - 450-1300 Injectors - Get a set of EV14s from the states. Far superior to anything else and cost <£250 MAF housing - £100 IIRC 4" Filter - £50ish Software (440) - 350 Dunno on the exhaust parts
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Didn't know Milltek did a 3" system? Cool if they do!
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You can indeed.
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Yeah, cause that's easy like making a victoria sponge isn't it....
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Yeah that's the very adapter you need. I'm not a 100% sure that wastegate you have is a 44mm, but it certainly looks like it. You don't generally get v band fitments on WGs smaller than 44mm, not that I've seen at least. I think it's the bore size that's 44mm, so measure the internal diameter of the flange mate. For the water cooling, nearly everyone uses the existing throttle body coolant hoses as a source of water, but you really don't want to attach those hoses to the turbo directly as they'll last 5 minutes. Hardline water and oil lines are preferable (as per stock VAG turbo engines)
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Hmmmm. That's fair enough I suppose if you like noise and want to boast down the pub that an extra half inch really does make a difference, LOL! Thing to remember is the yanks only care about numbers. They rarely mention drivability, reliability, repeatability and noise levels. A quiet 3" to them sounds like the Kraken trying to break through the earth's crust to the rest of us. And, 6whp. I mean, are you really going to feel that when you've got 200whp to begin with? :-) And surprise surprise, the yanks always start measuring the power only where the power climbs, so we have no idea what