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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. How do you find the low rpm manners just off idle? The ramp whilst blunting off idle response a little, helps smooth out any snatchiness when crawling along in traffic etc. That's the trouble with the 24Vs which have full bore TBs. They are pretty savage at part throttle. Good skills though!
  2. Yup, the Mini one is too small. Been out in an M90 VR6 MK3 ages ago and that was very nice indeed. Very different torque spread to a centrifugal charger! The guy is on here but I can't remember his name. In this example, a second throttle was needed to recirculate waste boost as positive displacement chargers make boost all the time, unlike centrifugals, so yeah, the fabrication can get tricky.
  3. Crank trigger wheel is 60-2 and MS should support all the stock sensors except MAF (and knock), so you'll need a map sensor instead, although as ITBs have no plenum, mapping them can be tricky. You might end up using throttle position only as the load measurement. I've run a DTA S80 on 12 and 24V VR6s with great success so you should be fine with the squirt.
  4. I very nearly strayed from VWs but in the end it's better the devil you know Keep looking at HPA/HGP turbo kits, mmmmmm.....
  5. Yeah the Corrado went in September and it had a n'asp R32 lump in it. Having done all I could to the car, I felt it was time to move on :-) Got a MK4 R32 now, so the traction and 02M box are there as standard, if I decide to turbo it :-). I miss tweaking and turbos, so it's more likely a when rather if, lol!
  6. That ebay one is a clone of the ATP one you linked to. You must have a massive turbo if it's fouling the bulkhead! I could get my hand behind my GT35R easily. I've used both a genuine ATP and a clone and they both warped. Badly made crap. You can mitigate the problem by cutting the webbing out of the manifold between cyls 1/2 and 5/6. This then allows the manifold to contract and expand properly. I did that on my ATP one (after skimming it flat again) and it never warped again. Unfortunately this kind of attention to detail is seldom seen in the aftermarket. OEMs slot their turbo mani
  7. 18psi is quite a hefty spring. You might get better results using an 8psi spring with a boost controller. Boost controllers can keep the valve closed right until the target pressure is required. Relying on just the spring can have patchy results and you'll probably get a nice spike to 20-22psi before it settles to 16-18psi. BCs are also good at controlling spikes for a smoother power delivery. I wouldn't expect a 60 quid chinese WG to last very long tbh. I know TIALs and Turbosmarts are expensive, but in my experience they are worth paying for the rock solid reliability and performan
  8. I did it with my standalone (12V turbo) and it's a piece of cake, but it's worth is questionable as the spark strength from R32 coils isn't any stronger than the stock VR6 coilpack's. Each coil needs a switched live, a ground to the head, a ground to the chassis and a signal from the ECU. Only snag is you need 6 coil driver signals from the ECU. Motronic only has 3. Although they are still fired in pairs on the R32 (as per 12V), you could just pair up the 3 Motronic driver outputs for wasted spark, i.e. 1/6, 4/2 & 3/5. I've never tried that though, so can't guarantee it will work. And l
  9. Standard flywheel weight is 9kgs, near as dammit, so halving it to 4.5Kg is a good number to aim for. I don't know if you can take that much weight out of a standard wheel though. Bear in mind you will only notice the effects of the flywheel and pulleys in the 1st couple of gears. Having been there, personally I wouldn't waste your money.
  10. I thought the only difference between 2.8 and 2.9, block wise, was the 1mm difference in bore. Compression ratio should be 10:1 on both.
  11. One of those valves doesn't look like it's actually closed fully. Are the cams fitted? If not, there's something seriously wrong there.
  12. Yep. It's not ideal really (which is I why I ran -6 end to end) but you can use 2 clamps for more security. Just don't over tighten them or you'll crimp the hose. The very end of the hard hoses have metal inserts, so your should be OK.
  13. The VR6 can be made to feel less sluggardly low down by combining good cams (such as the 263s) and a heap more ignition advance in the light throttle areas. The latter is VERY low (for a mild 10:1 compression engine) in the standard map. As for exhausts, certainly the Corrado's stock system is very good. I remember some years ago pulling off my standard system (still leak and rot free after 12 years) and fitting a SuperSprint in it's place. As a bog standard car, it made 199hp and 190 torques. With the Supersprint, it *lost* 3hp. Maybe it's just the Golf's exhaust which isn't all that as p
  14. DBW throttles are full bore, where as the cable ones are ramped on the Golf and 2 stage opening on the Corrado (full bore also). In other words, for the same pedal movement, the DBW throttles will let more air through, so are more mechanically 'responsive'. 24Vs are more responsive anyway, even without the DBW throttle. Better flowing head and all that. In the case of the R32, high ignition advance at light throttle, high compression and an over sized throttle make it stupidly responsive!
  15. Christ, how much did they skim off the head?! lol They do sit a little proud anyway, but if it should stand to reason that if they skimmed say, half a mill off the head, then cutting the valve seats back half a mill should bring it all back inline? Normally just a resurface of the seats is all that's needed, either with lapping and paste, or one of them cutting tools.
  16. Great dedication and perserverence :-) What caused the fuel injector issue? Those wishbone bushes look like a similar design I used several years ago and they work brilliantly - http://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/vw/golf_jetta_vento_mk_iii/388/VAG810B/front_lwr_arm_rear_bushes_single
  17. The model 2025 Begi does both roles. You don't need 2 regulators.
  18. Take it out for a drive and it should be quiet by the time you get back. Which tappets did you use? GSF ones? So long as they had "ina" stamped on them, they're the same as genuine. I know they do some unbranded crap that I wouldn't even fit to a kart engine!
  19. From what I've read, the idle and low rpm manners are terrible with the 290 cams. But they built it to do 200mph, not cruising around LA I find the VR6 idles better than stock with the 263s. Not rough or lumpy at all mate.
  20. If you unclip the motor cover mate, you will see the end of the shaft has a spot welded disc / flange type end on it, so removing it looked pretty impossible to me. The main reason you can't shave off the ramp is because the casting isn't thick enough at that part. You'll see the external side of the ramp is indented. I would imagine if you take the metal off inside, you'll create a nice big hole? It's just speculation from what I remember of OBD2 throttles. I never actually did one. And yeah, the increase in airflow may upset the idle control because the ECU might not be able to close the
  21. Mine were diameter reduced by Ferrea themselves. No way I'd do that sort of specialist machining myself! Sodium filled are OK' date=' but inconel is even better for turbo engines It's what the turbine wheel is made of in GTR turbos Schimmel built my head mate. For the price he charged me, inc shipping and import duties, it would have been uneconomical to build it in the UK But yeah, just a gasket match and chamfer job! He did a really nice job of it. Beautifully machined and resurfaced.
  22. I was making just shy of 400hp from 11psi with a GT3582R, 0.82 AR. With a standard engine, you usually see 400hp from 15-18psi. But it's more than just the numbers. The whole rev range feels fatter and more responsive. IIRC, my valves were reduced from the standard 7mm diamter to 4 or 5mm in the combustion area. In other words, the valves were still 7mm in the guides, but the exposed bit of stem when the valve is fully open was reduced. In isolation that mod probably makes minimal difference, but when you add it to the other changes (cams, bigger valves, enlarged intake ports, 3 angle etc)
  23. The reason I mentioned going over 7000rpm is because of turbo sizing. If you're going with a GT30 sized turbo and stock intake, the torque band is pretty much done by 5500-6000rpm, depending on turbine housing AR. With a GT35R and short runner intake, it'll rip round to 7K before you know it! It would be nice to extend the rev range to 7500rpm and give you a bit more top end. Personally, I hate turbo engines that peak too early. I like an endless power band like M3 engines. The Americans have been revving VRTs to 8000rpm for years and more recently, 8500rpm with 288 cams (Texas Mile MK3
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