FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Excellent post! Yep, that is spot on!
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Can't figure out if ive lost power, or it's spread out more...
FishWick replied to ollie_'s topic in Engine Tuning
I presume it's very loud with only 1 silencer too, so the different exhaust note might be playing mind tricks on you.... -
Yeah that's very true Jim. I still think that if UM, yourself, or Stealth or who ever put together a tried and tested kit and sold it for, say, £4K and get 400hp, people would drop their scavenged parts and go for that. 100hp per £1000 is a steal in today's market imo :-) And it's very doable imo. Just get a pukka DP made and get it mass produced in China. The rest is easily sortable. Standard length oil lines, standard T piece, standard boost pipes for the OE intake, standard turbo, standard software, you name it. The only area of potential customisation will be the intercooler bec
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Indeed :-) I'll only do that in an R32 though as I want the traction if I do a turbo build again!
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Yup, agreed. I did the Schrick + 268s + TB thing many moons ago and was extremely underwhelmed by it. As Jim says, for the cost of that, I could have gone forced induction, which really does give a night & day difference. If you want a VR6 that has bottom end torque and good up top aswell, fit a 24V! R32 in particular. For such a long stroke engine, it rips round to 7K so easily. Very impressive lump.
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The trouble is, there are too many differetnt caveats to build into and all inclusive kit. Yeah anyone can supply a manifold, turbo, injectors, software etc as they're all off the shelf parts. The difficult stuff like purpose made downpipes that actually fit the car PROPERLY without fouling anything, boost pipes, heat management, oil and fuel lines etc etc. That's where most 'kits' fall down. We should now be in a position where a company can produce all of this as a kit that can be fitted over a weekend (if using a spacer). The trouble is, it would cost £1000s and no one will pay for i
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As in: "here are *ALL* of the bits you need for plug and play sir, off you go and fit it. Enjoy!" I'll believe that when I see it with my own eyes :-)
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Back in the day, on a stock 2.9 VR6, a Schrick VGI on it's own + a remap moved the torque 1000rpm down the rev band. Then there was a noticable kink in the torque plot where the flap opened at 4000rpm. The remap (and indeed the OE chip for the VSR) basically removes ~ 6 deg timing from the 3000rpm region, and adds a bit of fuel to counter the postive pressure pulse tuning. If the remap wasn't done, the engine pinked too easily in the summer months. Too much for the knock control to pull back quickly enough. Past 4000rpm when the flap is open (short runner plenum engaged) the motor felt pret
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Yup. The torque you would normally get at 4000rpm, you get at 3000rpm with a Schrick. To get a genuine 220-230hp (from a 2.9) you need a big bore throttle (a bigger plate, not a polished ebay special), a schrick and 268s. Plus a remap of course. When you price all that lot up, a charger makes a lot more sense. You can even buy an R32 conversion for less than that lot!! 280hp all day long and tonnes more bottom end torque than any nasp or charged 12V can ever get close too.
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If you're lucky enough to get the right file for the right ECU revision, then it can work. It didn't work for me, and no my hardware was not at fault before you say it. There are nowhere near enough users of C2 software globally without a single glitch to categorically state it's plug and play, because it isn't.
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To make a kit to my standards would cost a fortune and no one would pay for it!
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That's actually not a bad kit. Kinetic Motorsport manifold (the best 12V Turbo one by far), tial wastegate and a decent Garrett turbo. No knock off chinese crap here. People have used the Kinetic manifold on RHD cars without much difficultly. I have yet to see a Turbo kit for a UK car that is actually a bolt on Kit with zero missing parts, zero fitting issues and zero software problems. They just do not exist. They are all custom to some extent.
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Nothing, as they are the same part.
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Eh? Fiat radiator and binning the radiator support panel? What are you crazy kids up to?!? Pics might help!
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I would replace the tappets. Or you can resurface the existing ones with some fine wet and dry paper on a flat surface if funds are tight. Don't need to replace anything else. 10% gain usually, but at the top end. 268s move the torque band further up.
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Yeah it's the same as KPA (Kilo Pascals Absolute), which is the pressure reference I use personally. Mainly because it's what VW use and therefore what I know best. It's also nicer to map because manifold pressure is manifold pressure, 1 - XXX. PSI tends to go into minus, or inHG, when you are not making boost which isn't so 'readable' when mapping, just a preference thing. So 200KPA would in fact be 1 bar of boost seen on the gauge because 100KPA is the pressure of the earth's atmosphere, so boost is added on top of that. Which leads me nicely onto yet another pressure reference, which
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400cc larger is hardly an extra few cc's is it?! lol Take it from me, an R32 conversion is LOADS more powerful than a 2.8 24V conversion. Yeah 24V pistons are wedge of cheese shaped, see bungy's pictures. It's because the combustion chamber is in the head and for that kind of CC, you need a flat pistons that are also square to the valves. The 12V uses bowled pistons because the head is flat instead. The 24V's burn is far superior to the 12V's.
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Good stuff! I used a bit of stainless chicken wire :-) Was your MAF originally under the inner wing in a 90 deg pipe sitting vertically then? (I can't see the pics). No wonder you had problems if that was the case. I had no end of trouble doing that in my old S/C days and they also don't like sitting down there getting wet and having crankcase ventilation moisture and oil dripping down onto them from above. What you've done is spot on. Mount the MAF to the filter and mount the filter as close to the headlight as possible. This is why I gave up on the whole Motronic shennigans with a turbo
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Do you have an air straightener on the 4" MAF housing? If not, I would get one on there.
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Try and find out what spec turbos HGP use as they rather enjoy their twin turbo setups, both on 12 and 24V VR6s.
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I have one going spare if you want it?
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Actually, just remembered I've got an old VR6 downpipe at home so I will measure up and check for you.
