FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Performance valve springs,collets etc(Bar-tek?)
FishWick replied to Lowlifedubber's topic in Engine Tuning
You can see worthwhile gains from larger valves in the VR6 head. I went 1mm over size. Ferrea stainless inlets and inconel exhaust. Those and SP 263 cams saw a 50hp gain from the same boost. As for the titanium valvetrain parts and uprated springs, I would only recommend these if planning on extending the rev range past 7000. I don't like uprated springs. They put too much strain on the cam gear and cam lobes as already said. Even with the best oils money can buy, I was seeing lobe pitting after 50K miles when using uprated springs. I don't think the Schrick springs are quite as strong as -
How many miles did you get out of your 3076? I put over 60K onto my GT35R and there was no end play at all in the shaft. They should put in 100K easily. Yeah the CHRAs are better value than a whole new turbo as the housings never break!
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Yeah I used one of those, the model 2025 - http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=7_76&products_id=4 You don't need the stock FPR as well. Simply set the base fuel pressure then turn the little brass knob to set the rate of rise. I can't remember how many turns I used but the idea is you tune it until you see 11.5-12 AFR on the wideband in boost. You will also need an uprated pump if not fitted already. The Walbro GSS340 intank is a good one. Few things to bear in mind if using the stock management: 1) The timing map is standard, so will rely heavily on the knock sensors
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I think the generic GT35s on ebay are the Journal bearing flavour. If you want a real McCoy dual ball bearing one, you'll have to stump up for a Garrett unfortunately. Or you could get a Generic job and send it off to CR Turbos for a 360 deg bearing upgrade, which they specialise in.
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I would think the belt tension required to run 2 superchargers would kill the water and PAS pumps very quickly indeed. Might get away with a pair rotrexes, but anything else would cause massive headaches. 1 turbo would do a better job anyway!
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Shorter gearing and [substantial] weight loss! G60 final drive in the box. I was told about a MK2 recently which had a MK5 R32 DSG in it. Low 12s 1/4 mile. Apparently the DSG shaves a lot of time off. Normally hit low to mid 13s in a manual R32 conversion, but it shows how much time can be shaved off by weight and gearing alone.
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Do you mean the one that connects the MAF to the throttle body? If so, make sure it's flexible or it could end up being yanked off the MAF under harsh acceleration!
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Ah OK, I couldn't open the dyno plot as there was an error, so I was going by the thumbnail. Cam timing OK?
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Torque curve looks OK to me. A nice quick ramp up and then held flat, which is exactly what you want. Power is rising nicely with rpm too. If power isn't increasing as boost goes up, it could be:- Restrictive hot side (although 0.62 isn't THAT restrictive on a GT30) Exhaust restriction (pull the silencer off and see if power goes up again) Boost leak Boost solenoid not holding the target boost Insufficient fuel supply The afore mentioned spark blowing out. If you're on a standalone, there's really no excuse for using a Dizzy, although they're OK :-) Just get an MSD blaster coil on there
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That's because it's an entirely different level of product. The Schimmel intake is a whole new casting and that kind of tooling isn't cheap. It also appears to have the correct 1.5x engine capacity plenum volume, which the ebay one does not.
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If you get a GT35 or T60-1, get one with a plain compressor housing, but definitely avoid the bullet hole style anti-surge housings as they are noisy too!
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I'd aim for a T60-1 / GT35R sized turbo myself but I've seen VRTs use T04Es before. It's not a big turbo, so the top end will choke a bit sooner than a larger one.
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It's not worth buying a knackered turbo. "In need of a rebuild" could mean any number of sins which you won't know the extent of until after you've handed your cash over. If you want to keep your engine in one piece, always buy a new or trusted s/hand turbo. As for the chargecooler thing, the throttle response is loads better. I've driven a few Corrado VRTs with normal front mounts, home made Charge coolers and obviously my old Schimmel chargecooled engine and the Schimmel setup was just waaaaaaaaay more responsive. Really low intake temps too. For me the weight of the water tank etc was
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I never used the evap solenoid as mine was standalone mate :-)
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Plenty of room for one in the back. It's not much bigger than a 2.0 4 cyl engine.
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Mine passed 5 MOTs with the crank case dump tube hanging down by the steering rack :-) The only downside is the air under the car will carry oil droplets to the back of the car, which causes spotting on the rear bumper. The check valve needs to go on the existing throttle body supply line, face it so that the engine can suck through the valve, but not blow back through it, if that makes sense!
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I'd run the PCV to the intake via a catch can if you care about the environment, or just dump it to atmosphere if you don't :_) For the Evap solenoid, the ECU is expecting that to be there, so either dummy load the plug or fit a non return valve on it so that boost doesn't end up pressurising the fuel tank.
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Not worth it. As I say, gasket match the intake if you can be bothered but leave the exhaust ports as there's little gain.
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Gasket matching the intake ports is quite nice but leave the rest alone. The best gains come from upping the valve size and cams.
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If you're running low boost with a mid size turbo (such as GT35R), I'd go with a 44mm gate as it will shift more waste exhaust at the target boost than as smaller gate, which will keep EGTs down. If going for high boost, then a 38mm gate would be better
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Nope, tis a 12V block. The other 5 pistons have pitted crowns, but are otherwise fine.
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I still have my old 8:1 turbo block sat in the garage and a brand new Wossner 8:1 83mm piston. Just thinking to keep your costs down, as this block is already bored to 83mm, you'd just need to buy 5 pistons and then just run a flexhone through the block (no wear lips at all) and build it up :-)
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8.0:1 usually, which becomes 8.5:1 with the 3 layer head gasket.
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Low boost on stock injectors? Really?! I would never chance that. Certainly not before they've been flow checked and cleaned etc as they're nearly 20 years old now some of the VR6 injectors. How come VW went up to 4 bar on the Corrado? To get the power at the top end or to improve low duty atomisation because of the slower gas speeds from the less restrictive intake?
