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RBPE last won the day on February 24

RBPE had the most liked content!


About RBPE

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/02/1979

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    Building fast VW Group FI vehicles

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  1. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    You need to make about 2-300 changes in the ecu to have them running right without boost sensor, not an easy job! You need to do ignition, fuel (oem injectors pretty small for any boost but you can do all the 3/4 bar changes, return/returnless etc), fuel mass, flight time mani dep, throttle angle, air mass, torque, exh temp modelling.... list goes on and that doesn't include the set up/ecu configuration changes depending on what parts you're using - oh and dsg if your using that.
  2. Inlet maifold??

    Peak torque is shifted higher up on FI engines plus you have the forcing of air so short runners okay for that, but unless you're going for a very high revving engine (not really the best engine to do that on being undersquare tbh), then you'll be better keeping the stock manifold for more low end torque - depends on your goals though I suppose!
  3. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    Yes, generally made with lots of other mods as well just for normal fuel, na to fi is about the hardest thing you can do on Motronic, either on a flash based tune or the mods needed inc. custom coding and parts. There are a few ways you can go about it, best bet is to learn the basics on the Function Sheets online, things like BGSRM, BGRLP, BGAGR etc which can all have an influence on the relative charge, load, rpm's etc which is what you need to do. I've put up plenty of links to the various aspects but it can get quite complicated and depends on what you can do and how you go about it. I'll try and put up a basic overview to help those going through the 2000 page docs!
  4. Help: Schrick vs sp short runner ; vr6t

    Variable geometry (Schrick) is generally better than fixed as it is designed to operate more efficiently more often (i.e. various rpm's), you just have to think about turbo placement and manifolds where the inlet tract is/the packaging constraints, plus heat soak etc https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311615696_Effect_of_Variable_Length_Intake_Manifold_on_Performance_of_IC_Engine
  5. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    Making 02 bungs in a cast mani is generally the way many do it, emulates the big name tunes. The two ways are generally like those, manipulating the air modelling whilst taking into account the P/I portions required to a degree (rl/rpm/egt/evap/vvt etc) and forcing open loop, or alternatively running it like oem on closed/open loop and taking into account the PID, adding either simple custom PID routines or more detailed patches and heavily modding the electronics to suit - both quite difficult in their own ways. The ignition (KFZW) on these isn't too bad at low load/rpm, prob need to bump it up a touch around idle and low rpms (>2k rpm) similar to 2500-3500rpms range but slightly higher values (42-45 at low rpms/load, >50 ish at high rpm/low load), then bump the high load up throughout the rpms and a mix of higher values in the mid range. If you look at the various SU/LEV types of monitoring (ME7/ME9/MED9 for example dep on your car), they'll give you an idea of what areas you need to think about as well as air mass modelling for post ambient on a none map car if you're not hacking the ecu and can bus to bits! WB02 FTW also so use those gauges to keep an eye on the afr's!
  6. Schrick manifold

    Without the ecu mod/box they'll be stuck in one position anyway dep on what ecu you're using, so make sure oem ecu mods for it or if going aftermarket, that those ecu's can control it. Is it a 2 port design, not barrell like the 24v, so one port will speed gas up giving better low flow rate but ultimately becoming a bottle-neck creating turbulence, heating the air up more and losing you power as the air flow increases and the dual ports will lose you this low gas speed in exchange for top end flow and opposites of above. If control is like the 24v's then it'd prob be stuck in power position/dual ports open in default if no ecu control.
  7. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    CDLSHV - Codeword diagnosis Lambda probe exchange detection Cayenne's pretty much identical in this respect from what I remember, 100+ maps/functions for the 02, most testers/diagnostics and some aging/heating and limits etc, it's all Bosch ME. You need a good def file, makes it a lot easier and there are some on the Net for these Porsche's, ecuconnections has some but you'll need to make some posts to see them I think.
  8. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    Not sure why that's playing up? Screenshot it for you anyway;
  9. 12v AAA turbo build

    I'm not sure, it's probably been nearly ten years since I did anything with an old 12v to be honest and not far off in terms of building a car or engine! What I can say is that these somewhat simple upgrades in an R32 head seem pretty good for this amount of power and these high revs, so.... I'll let you make your own mind up as to how much modifications you need for high hp! https://www.turboimpression.de/ueber-den-zulieferer-6?lang=en
  10. 12v AAA turbo build

    It's contradiciting because it depends really! Displacement, revs and boost pressure (aka efficiency as desired) - they're the main ingredients for hp, how you go about that usually depends on budget and reason for high goals such as this. Simply put - you can get this power from a fairly stock engine with a few mods as mentioned in many threads, but generally, the more you do the better. I usually say for people to do the basics first, which would be refreshing as much as you can afford as the parts of your car have been used and abused over the years to a degree and then uprating the parts put under stresses (i.e. the engine, clutch, gearbox etc) as best as your budget allows. Once you do that then it is on to uprating stuff further which you clearly have done for the botom end with the rods and pistons. Once that is done then it comes down to two things, the head and the use of the vehicle. The head is the crux of power (or efficiency to be more correct) in such a build and the more flow (hp) you are aiming for, the less restrictions the better. So uprating the head (or even just refreshing parts and uprating some things like harder springs etc) is a good idea if you can afford it. With most of these conversions though they are often road based cars so unlike a drag car "the area under the curve" is an important aspect to note, basically, ensuring good driveability and plenty of low end grunt so you don't have to drive everywhere at 6000+ rpms! Cams would certainly help you in this respect as you are going from an NA set up to FI and there are variances in the lift/aggressiveness etc of such cams, hence why many uprate them, in short, dragging your peak torque down to a more acceptable level for road driving. This also relates to your turbine side of your turbo as well as the tubular manifold mentioned - you also want the exhaust manifold to pulse the air flow out, thus driving the turbine wheel efficiently in the most laminar way possible and you don't want a big turbine ar if it only gives you good flow (hp/torque) at 5000+ rpms on a road car! So it's basically this - on a road car you need to balance the mass of air flow (which can be increased with big valve heads, big turbo's, free flowing mani's etc) all of which will get you these higher hp numbers you crave, the bragging rights down the pub, but you also want to keep good flow (efficiency) at lower gas speeds so the car remains driveable, on road cars it is this balancing act you are aiming for. If you can afford aftermarket cams, big valve heads etc then yeah, go for it, if not, then a good refresh of the head is a good start, stiffer valve springs are usually a good idea to handle the increases in revs you are likely to want for such power, then cams certainly can help your area under the curve and then onto valves etc after that. You probably know this if building a big project like that but others might not and it really comes down to efficency where you want it and the balancing act that is aftermarket modifications for a road car!
  11. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    Dual 02 mani like HGP/HPA or single 02 conversion. I had Kompiesto draught me a quick guide for the DIY folks (thanks Marcin), which you can find here; https://app.box.com/file/302875520967 EDIT - There's a 2-1 and 1-2 split on which bank of cylinders read which on the dual route, best to get that right if you go down that route
  12. The definitive remapping thread

    Yeah something like carprog should work, depends on tools/ecu, the need to desolder etc, there should be a few threads about online that tell you, it can really vary between ecu's and flashing tools what data you get or can manipulate on these, as well as which C166 ecu you are using given the variance.
  13. The definitive remapping thread

    What you can do on these or any ecu really, depends on how well, or not, your flashing tool interacts with the ecu plus what you use to read the data with. You can get tools that will not only give you the flash but also the mcu etc as well, even then the data within it could be off depending on what tools you are using to read/reverse it. Even if you use a normal tool and just get the usual data/eeprom for flashing like on most tools, then even then tools can vary on the data given, a point I was trying to get at in the BDE tuning thread - some tools you'll have rpm data there to change as you wish, some will cover it up so you don't change the rpm's accidentally or they'll shift things around for safety reasons. So it simply comes down to the tools you're using, their protocols/how they interact with the ecu, not all will just cross over all the data. Not only that but on later ones like ST10 you have immo in the mcu aspects and so on to think about when you flash, THEN it depends on how well your reversing/reading tools are too it seems!
  14. The definitive remapping thread

    I know what you are saying but even with the same letters there can be differences, not that they wouldn't cross flash although there can be problems there as mentioned, just that maps alone have differences. BT is coming up as a Porsche Cayenne ecu with some people touting it as Porsche and Toureg. As an example this is a Cayenne one against and VR6 24V one (032T v's 032BM) - you can see a very similar structure (green) but you can also see differences between maps due to all the reasons mentioned. Like I say, if you don't know how to modify this data it could have problems, best bet is to get as close to your model as possible if not the same one and take it from there! Best answer I can give you without looking at the ori reads directly and reversing them a bit.
  15. The definitive remapping thread

    All ME7.1.1. are 022906032 - the variances between them are; inlet only vvt, full inlet, 2 point exhaust vvt, 02 number variances and limiters and removals market depending, engine and cyl volume variances in the ecu, dsg v manual, hfm maps and the evolution of the c166 which I think has at least 3 variances (early c167, c167 evolution/hybrid and st10) and differences in protocols/immo aspects between c167's and st10's, so certain tools can work on early but not the later st10........ these are just some of the differences off the top of my head between the 022 906 032 only on VW/Audi 2.8's and 3.2's, let alone anything else that may use 022 906 032! You can have 2 identical letters like the mk5 CD here but they can have differences in them, this is usually market led and some tweaks to maps to suit if I remember right - Otherwise variances like CD v CE can be the same ecu's for the market but one is auto/dsg and one is manual. You can modify the data to suit if you know what you are doing like dsg/manual swaps like I showed Hummel below how to start doing it, but if not, I would try and get the exact same one or as close as possible in your market http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=15195.msg120364#msg120364