Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


RBPE last won the day on May 13

RBPE had the most liked content!


About RBPE

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/02/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Building fast VW Group FI vehicles

Recent Profile Visitors

1,098 profile views
  1. mk4 golf v6 turbo conversion parts

    A nice set up for a decent outlay would be; Holset HX35, usually internal gated on a twin scroll them so many weld it shut and look at a 38 or 44mm external gate like Turbosmart or Tial, or a Garrett GT(X/R) or EFR - this all depends on what you want to spend as a major outlay to the conversion, Recirc valve - Turbosmart Kompact are good value and you can get them at 32mm or something which is higher flowing than a 25mm 710N or the like, or a 50mm one Exhaust manifold you may have to see on the tune, can have the 02 bosses welded into the manifold so the tune should follow that, or you can add custom code and a single lambda in the downpipe which will be better for readings - so either cast, full tubular or a tubular off the stock twin exh mani's are your options there Downpipe - have someone fab it up or DIY usually best FMIC - Better cooling the charge air whilst you fit a kit at the start imo The stock variable resonance manifold is the best design, but limiting factors are the turbo being added at the exhaust manifold and excess heat at the inlet or just fitment of turbo on the manifold alone with stock inlet mani, plus it is plastic too and can be prone to popping under boost, although some have run them at 20psi with no probs. That'll basically get you the turbo set-up Engine - some just stick a spacer on, some then add ARP head studs, I would always recommend a refresh of engine too, then you can add forged rods, pistons, head work - again depends on budget Clutch will be a limiting factor over 300lb/ft or so (mild boost on these) - and you can add upgraded discs or usually a decent set up preferred would be a Sachs SRE kit with single mass flywheel, some don't like the chatter noise you get when changing from dual to single mass though but it's generally a tougher set up. Budget a little over a grand for that set up but you should be good till 450lb/ft then after that or for absolute best/road manners at high hp, you're looking at a multi-disc set up for a couple of grand or so! Then it is the tune and fuel, so expect to upgrade the fuel pump (Walbro 255, Bosch 044, DW65V) and then the injectors to suit (Bosch best really, may need some changes to fit) - these could also be dictated by the software. On oem management there are a few ways to do things, the fuelling is pretty straight forward in that you do it much like any other ME7, you are essentially changing the mass of the droplet of fuel, obv. being larger injectors used as the norm, plus the flight time/constants which can be due to, for example, an inlet manifold change, then you change ignition as obv. NA and FI ignition is different. There's also some massaging of the torque maps being a central torque based ecu, so that things follow certain values past, in that case, load. An NA load would only read to 100 and an FI from 160 on something like a 1.8T 180hp ecu, through to, say, 300 on an RS3. Other pro tuners actually leave these load based maps stock, contrary to many VAG tuners here's belief's, and instead use pedal angle modifications to account for rapid changes in air like adding a turbo, this in turn though leads to numerous changes for things like idle control as you are changing drivers request/pedal interpretations and is also the reason why certain owners who have used pro tuners to try and define/map their dsg are having trouble even finding the maps based on their def files. Then you can add custom code for basic boost control and other hard coding which usually requires a lot of reverse engineering and essentially a code writer who can write it into the code on it in redundant areas, or by changing the maps/functions of some parts for drivers. Although you can't change/map things as quickly as a standalone, plus whomever writes such a file will usually have IP Rights on it as it is a lot of work meaning that a tuner may not be able to access the data, it does have the benefit of being oem based. Cost for something like that can be around standalone prices mentioned. These variances will have an effect on what parts are used although like I say, getting the fuelling spot on on these wideband cars is fairly straight forward, it's the changes in air-flow and lack of sensors which can be the bane, such changes like pedal interpretations, are also why some turbo owners may report that their pedal feels a bit numb, it's all related to modelling for the changes. So, to sum up - you can DIY for £1500, basic intercooled set up, no engine mods, low boost on stock clutch if you can map yourself, then you cater for engine mods and higher boost along side a clutch - £2.5-4k usual cost of a decent 400hp or so set up if you can map yourself, half of which you could spend on the turbo..... then, £10-15k for the absolute top and everything in-between! People think that there are no options but there are plenty, you just need to pick-n-mix to what you want to achieve and can afford!
  2. mk4 golf v6 turbo conversion parts

    Most turbo re-seller files tuners have access too are for the R32's, you could build a similar one for late BDE/BDF type models or early AUE based ones may need some tweaks due to variances, plus there's a few ways you can map these vehicles - depending on what they can do on that front, that's probably more your limiting factor more than anything in using a pro for a full conversion and will also dictate the fuelling set up you choose plus some of the other parts used on such conversions. Apart from that it's often easier and cheaper to just source parts yourself - you'll need either a specialist or your local fabricator to make you up a downpipe to your exhaust, everything else is just parts sourcing and fitting. Engine cost can vary from stock through to spending a fortune, I've mentioned how you can save money and get it refreshed with upgraded parts which you could do with a local engine builder, saving a few quid but doing a bit yourself and so on. Apart from that, you'll often have to speak to VAG pro's themselves to see what they recommend, what they use and all the variances that can go with it as they will have their own little way of doing things. Most mk5 R32 and early V6 owners end up coming to me though after trying a number of them but I'm not taking any work on till late in the year at the minute, which is why I mentioned the ecu as being the limiting factor for a build. Technically you could make your own with what's on the net - far from easy but it's possible and the obvious "how much are you willing to spend and how much are you willing to do yourself?" - some of the more "2.8 specific" parts can add up too over, for example this would evidently be a bit more than a 400 euro 2.8/R32 specific ebay inlet manifold; https://shop.mm-hp.de/Ansaugbruecke-VAG-V6-28L-24V-Turbo
  3. Overflow is due to expansion, hence why they have overflow/expansion tanks (not sure of your knowledge on such things but seeing as you said HG I may as well lay it out for noobs rather than you as you prob don't need it!) - basically the atoms of certain things reverberating - in this case possibly water (hydrogen/oxygen H2O) molecules which leads to expansion. The cause of this is usually of course heat causing it, too much heat, the bane we don't want and a set temp under conditions which the factory deem safe for normal operation! Not only that but an over abundance of oxygen (adding air - i.e. a split causing the fluid to be replaced with air) can exacerbate the situation! There obviously can be loss of coolant with a split in a pipe or loose clamp, if you struggle to see it, say checking under the car in the morning, then it's usually either collecting on something like the gearbox or any other housing/part of car, or possibly even just evaporating! So if you are struggling to pinpoint the source - and do take some time to see where it does come out, then this could be a reason! Once you go through all the hoses and parts that carry the coolant mix about then it's off to the areas where they interact with the engine. A well known area is, of course, the "crack-pipe" as it's known, quick search link; Once this is done, or at least checked out, which would sort a lot of those having coolant problems, then addressing the OP directly; "Yeah, obviously check the seal area's to the engine if you've checked the external coolant carriers mentioned above including radiator of course, rubber seal areas can be prone to splits quite easily where they meet the engine first and foremost, be cheaper and easier checking/replacing easy seals, than cam cover/head off job of course - then yes - on to checking the gasket seals - checking for any bits that have crumbled in terms of passageways or simply a split in the head gasket material causing an incorrect seal... you sound like you know what you are looking for in that respect!" and to any noobs, you need a nice, air-tight seal here as leaks will occur. Sorry, had 20 mins to kill so thought I'd give an overview for any noobs but if you've checked the obvious and nothing, then yep, onto those gaskets I'm afraid! P.S. It's also not uncommon to get a leak from the coolant sensor area with a bad fitment, have had my own "this part is correct" but just "quite" didn't fit correctly although it at first looked sealed, plus some who have converted their cars not fitting it correctly by accident/tightness - so another easy check there if need be if you changed any such things - usually carries some fault codes!
  4. Save a lot of money guessing and read it via VCDS/VAG COM, can then try and pinpoint things better
  5. 2.0 to VR6 Swap, Running Super-Rich

    No - I'm not saying there ARE any differences between injector flow rates, I'm saying you SHOULD know if there are any differences - it could literally only need an EGR code out to sort - I'm just saying I'm rusty on these older ones and didn't do much with them anyway but all conversions or engine/ecu changes people need to be aware of these things or there could be more that can cause problems in this instance than just the EGR variance - covering all bases!
  6. 2.0 to VR6 Swap, Running Super-Rich

    Ah, right, got ya! It's been a while since I've done anything on the older cars or ecu's so you'll have to do the working out and look into the info but in terms of the various engine swaps and ecu tuning I do I tend to take this approach; Firstly - obviously check things like injector seals, wiring, is the maf in good nick, no tight bends before it causing turbulent flow for readings, fuel pump in good nick, fpr etc - things like that - basically knowing that your air/fuel/sensor parts work fine/the hardware side is all up to scratch - preferably with as much to oem for that ecu that people can afford or you can set up. Then - is everything else the same between the models/engine's - are the injector flow rates the same, is the fuel pressure the same, do you have vvt variances for example which means the ignition timing maps are a little different to a none vvt one and so on. Main problem is that there were a lot of quick changes in the 90's as legislations came in for emissions, you can get things like EGR and non EGR in the same year like you said - so next bit is checking that the parts did not vary too much, if the ecu is set up for an EGR 200cc injector and a non EGR one was 185cc's for example, then that can cause problems as well as, in this case, not having certain things for the maps like EGR.... all add's up. If that's all sorted then yes, it is likely to be the EGR variances as you can see in the screenshot above they are a part of ignition. Most people should probably do that if they use a certain mapper, like a local one you always use or one's who do lot's of cars or aren't particularly knowledgeable on model variances, you can help save them time pinpointing things that are different and need looking into in that respect. Hope that helps
  7. 2.0 to VR6 Swap, Running Super-Rich

    What?..... "I recently swapped an OBDI 12V VR6 into my 1999 Mk3 Jetta (OBDII, obviously), but I'm keeping the engine OBDI. I do still have everything for the dizzy, except the ECU.So thats part of the problem, I would need another ECU (I think)This engine has the block and head from a late '95 VR6 with the dizzy and no EGR, and the ECU and wiring harness from an early '95 VR6 with a coilpack and EGR, hence the dizzy to coilpack convesion"
  8. 2.0 to VR6 Swap, Running Super-Rich

    P.S. AGR is EGR above so there can be further changes needed for EGR delete for example on the same ecu, it has been some years since I played with the older Motronic, but above is very much likely the answer without being able to put the 2 variant ecu's together! Time's are ms which is very finite so getting that spot on is essential and the maps shown above don't even show the after-start and warm-up changes, so lot's are dependent on the ignition maps being right. You can see on the vid that when they aren't the fuel can do all sorts and wash out the port without any ignition if too far off.
  9. 2.0 to VR6 Swap, Running Super-Rich

    Speaking on later ME7 stuff, there are times calculated to charge the coil and release the spark ensuring a proper burn, sometimes people get lucky in that they'll get deflagration over detonation as the times are similar, upgraded coils have a better energy/enough for proper burn based on the oem map times etc, but you always want to be running the set times for said coils - so use the ecu that uses those coils or the maps at least! If you're changing these then 1st port of call is always to sort the map out first or you're risking trouble - so if you're not sparking the mixture properly in time, like this vid, then I wouldn't risk running it until sorted! You can see the way the mixtures are igniting or not or fuel just getting washed out with no combustion etc here; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deflagration_to_detonation_transition I haven't got access to my 12v files at the moment due to hard drive problems, but I'll see if I can dig out the differences if I have time, you can see how many ignition maps there are in this VR6 12V and why the timing is very important;
  10. VW's new 496bhp 3.0-litre VR6 engine

    My 2p; "Chinese tax bracket" - hope so, means the money persons are involved in additional units so more likely to get the go ahead. Personally hope that the boffins in white coats have Motorsport DNA in them and are sticking to the "lighter weight and power for a transverse engine bay" philosophy of the original VR6, plus modern cars are quite powerful so more cylinders and detuned would give the 5 pot F**d RS club (sorry for swearing ) a better run for the money (plus win over the journo's like the original with the throaty gruffness!). It doesn't matter if it has 5, 6 or 7 runners for air to be honest, it has collectors, number of coils probably matters though! You have the main area, so the maf goes to a single inlet to feed the twin turbo's (blue), which in turn collect via 2 compressor outlets to the main area in dark red. I reckon around there is where they will either add some sort of air or water/air cooler for future development, above exhaust is not best place though! So it goes to the main collector, the "torque path" if you will (interesting they didn't package tighter like a TFSI and kept long runners across the engine) - so the air collects there, where it's directed by 5-7 runners. Shame they didn't sit the engine more over the axle but I guess that traction management with slight understeer is the safe way to tune them, if still a little(!) forward sat - and are the mounts part in green a part of the new MQB set up they are all using so further proof they should get to work making these? Once past the main collector and down the runners, they then meet in another collector, you can see the shape of it under the plastic cowling; So, I guess it doesn't matter the number of runners then, stop arguing! Maximum flow looks important then up until this point with volume a large part - then you can see the hose shrinks to the "power path" lower manifold. Although this raises heat it does speed up the air flow which is good if you want it reverberating around this short path area - which is designed for quick air entering for top end. Nice to see the sensors in the "power path" manifold, I guess an aftermarket upgrade to short runner would have to be similar to the blue design added to the red bit? Or, I guess, someone's working on an integrated cooling system over the main collector/over the exhaust mani's, as we speak!
  11. Some links; You can use files from here to build your own definition file if you haven't got flashing tools yet; I'll probably use them for demonstration purposes. http://www.chip-tuner.hu/original_ecu_files/files/VW/ I don't use it myself commercially, but the winols demo is good to learn on here; https://www.evc.de/en/download/down_winols.asp Free hex editor here; https://mh-nexus.de/en/hxd/ Most make xdf files to use Tunerpro for tuning, which can be found here; http://www.tunerpro.net/ Cheapest standalone checksum checker; https://www.ecufix.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=180&zenid=ervbr1d371a90kcnohotedo015 However, checksums can be sorted out in some of the newer ebay based flash tools like MPPS v18 onwards, which means you can now essentially tune your car for less than £100 all in. These can also be used on DSG; http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/2014-mini-dsg-reader-dq200-dq250-vw-audi.html
  12. Will edit soon, new layout; Main torque maps in the ecu's, KF (kenfelder - map, M - moment/torque) - are KFMIOP and KFMIRL - essentially the main torque maps for the central torque monitoring ecu's - some locations and info (to be edited); Note - 022906032 is the usual ecu number for ME7.1.1. - BG is the commonly used BDE code between tuners, 032E is the one often used for AUE none twin vvt ecu's, will update with more info when needed; BDE v's a tuned HX35 turbo AUE; Notice how the AUE turbo has IOP modified to be maxxed at any load over 100% - the stock limit of a naturally aspirated engine. If you look at this AUQ ecu of mine v a V6, you can see load variances; You can see the stock iop map maxxed on the AUE Turbo, basically telling the ecu to follow x (nigh on 100% torque) over the usual 100% max value of ambient pressure as there is no way of measuring boost, whereas the 20vt ecu accounts for this with a load past 100%, 160% in this case. Stock AUE Hybrid and supposed BFH from DAMOS packs; BUB v BUB Turbo. Then KFMIRL or IRL tuning which are (sort of) inverse maps, loads of threads online, will talk about them as we go on; BDE v AUE Stock locations and AUQ; BFH v BUB Turbo; BUB v BUB files; (032CE code) Will edit as needed, you can follow a lot of how these are tuned (minus the boost), here; https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
  13. The definitive remapping thread

    Probably, a tune could just have fuel/ignition and pedal tweaks so can be somewhat cross flashed, you'd have to ask them
  14. The definitive remapping thread

    All ME7 is fundamentally the same to a large degree, just various evolutions and parts differences of course, this in turn adds maps/data and changes a few things. AUE/Early 2.8 24v models have Inlet cam timing but no exhaust, Nokenwellen Einlass maps are there (NW-E abbrv. you should get used to), Auslass (NW-A) are not, generally everything else pretty much the same. Values will change due to a lack of input data when there are maps missing - if trying to define you need to look at axis data rather than cell data if using, for example, a dual VVT def file or R32. BDE/BDF - late 24v's had both inlet and exhaust cam timing, I think the differences between these are number of 02's due to exhaust differences, but never really done anything with BDF apart from some quick def's. BFH R32 MK4 - Pretty much the same as BDE only obviously the displacement changes make differences, max torque across CAN etc are upped so some values different like that. They used larger parts like MAF so HFM map values/limit's different, low flow rates etc - flow across throttle body and general flow/tb/maf related values are changed due to this. MK5 R32 - Part changes and increased limit's as above really, slight variances again in torque limit values across can and things like that, cam maps, homo/stratified injection - general evolution of maps there, some other things I can't think of the moment. AUDI TT - Both mk1 and mk2 TT's use different HFM main maps like Porsche use on the ME7.8 and later ME9 stuff which in turn changes the structure of some maps, A3 ecu's I have done matched the mk5 one's though - everything else I think was pretty much the same as mk5. DSG/Auto v Manual - if doing an engine swap with gearbox change you should use an ecu with that gearbox as you can get all sorts of pedal/flow/rpm play ups, use the ecu for the gearbox is the easiest way really. That's just some off the top of my head, but even with these kind's of evolutions, the vast majority of data is fundamentally the same or similar, not sure where I "stated they are all the same" as I have always said AUE are inlet vvt but it's what you can see on the screenshots in the backgrounds or map data shown; Example - HFM (maf) variances as stock - MLHFM main map flow kg/hr and min flow; BDE v BFH v BUB In terms of data stacking/location, as they are all C166 evolutions they are very similar, like the background's in the screenshots as opposed to, in this case, individual data in a cell; So they are very similar and yet can be different, but no, no special differences between any 2.8's, just some market variances, part/ecu evolutions and more or less data to play with ultimately!
  15. Need help!!!