FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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I think the VR6 flange is bigger mate. There should be a Borg warner p/n on those turbos and you can look them up online to get precise measurements.
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Make sure you clean out the threads in the block thoroughly first to remove residual oil. I used brake cleaner and cotton buds.
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Because the gains are a lot smaller per £ than forced induction but there's more to it than that really. Some people prefer the power band of normally aspirated. Certainly in the M3, the power feels like it's never going to run out, just keeps pulling and pulling.... and no lag :-)
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I think Gareth's is over 300hp and runs a DTA standalone. Yep, the more power you get out of a nasp engine, the more power you get when you boost it. It's why Honda VTECs make so much power from low boost. Honda turbos get into the 10s easily.
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ITBs can give huge gains. Look at all the BMW M engines. They all use them to get high hp. Take the E46 CSL for instance. 350hp from 3.2 litres. Compare that to 280ish after a remap of VW's 3.2 R32 engine. The R32's inlet manifold holds it back. Dump it and fit 268 cams and you'll get close to 100hp/litre. ITBs with a proper enclosed plenum the way BMW do it is something I've wanted to try on both 12 and 24 valve VR6s but the cost is prohibitive and it would have to be fully custom and a standalone management. If you can find an E34 M5 at a breakers, that's a good place to start. Inc
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Ain't gonna happen. Sometimes you just have to take a gamble on these things.
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2.25" is fine as the Milltek is a 'straight through' design, which is best for turbos. The OE baffled system would be restrictive, although having said that, I pushed well over 300hp through my stock Corrado system once and it was fine. My first turbo engine used a 2.25" SuperSprint system and that was way over 320hp with 12ish psi boost. Don't get hung up on exhaust bore on your first setup mate, especially if it's a low boost one. Just get it all in and running first, then worry about this kind of thing afterwards. And don't believe all the horseschitt power claims you read on the net fr
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Aren't the K03 turbos 3 bolt fixing? I like twin turbos. Less exhaust backing up causing a restriction and less lag than a big, single turbo. It's win win. The only downside as already said, is the build complexity. Plus I suppose if the motor grenades itself, you lose two turbos instead of one, lol
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Mmmm, that is the sex ! :-) Yep, pipework is the trickiest bit. The kind of (small) turbos you'll be looking at for this may even have a 3 bolt flange, which could bolt straight onto each of the VR6's manifolds? The RX7 won't use a pair of dustbin lids so they'll probably work OK. If you take into account 1.4 litres per turbo, then a pair of K03s from a 1.8T might also work well, or a couple of K04s for more top end clout.
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Yes the Techtonics 264/260 24V cams work well with boost. Go for it!
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Yeah I think +2mm is about your lot really. Good luck getting in touch with Mahle! They practically shut down for half the year to focus on making race pistons. The retail market gets second fiddle. The schimmel BV kit is good as already mentioned and the stuff I used. Well, I had Schimmel send over a built head, which worked out at about £1000 inc shipping etc. That was a good few years ago though! I wouldn't use his valve springs though as they're a bit hard on the cam lobes I've found and extra load the cam chains etc. Standard valve springs are OK to 7200rpm ish.
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Not worth the effort! An open bead IAT sensor like that with instant response is only useful in boost applications. For a standard VR6, the standard IAT sensor is fine. I don't know how that bloke can claim 2whp when most dynos can drift 5whp between runs easily. And you won't feel 2 more hp anyway.
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Those 02M brackets look amazing. Any pics of them fitted ?
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83mm Wossners have "06306" stamped into the crown, which is a way to indentify them easily. Big valve head and cams definitely worth it. I found 50hp from +1mm bigger valves and Schimmel 263 cams, from the same boost pressure. The more air you can cram into the cylinders, the better :-)
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Several years ago Stealth Racing did before and after dyno runs (standard MK3 VR6) with a BMC CDA 85-150, and it freed off 7hp. I have yet to see any other filter come close to that. You also get the same 7hp whether or not you add the cold air ducting pipe.
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The only thing I would add is the plastic intake is only really weak in terms of backfires during start up, which can blow the variable tract cover off, or burst a runner open. A properly tuned 24V (i.e. no boost spikes) can handle a bar of boost. Also worthy of note is the R32 intake is stronger, but it doesn't fit the 24V head sadly. Good excuse to drop an R32 head on, providing it's a BDE engine :-)
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Those two turbos are cheap relicas I'm afraid. A genuine, 100% Garrett, GT3582R with 0.82AR housing and 3" V band outlet will cost you around £1100-£1200 with the VAT. If you see them cheaper than that, your suspicions should be aroused. I have a brand new GT3582R, 0.82, 3" V band, 100% Garrett going for £900 if you're interested :-) I was going to turbo my R32 with it but I've decided to stay naturally aspirated.
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3.68 in America. 3.39 in Europe / Rest of the world. If the 3.67 is from an O2A transmission, then it will work.
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Interestingly, the 24V PAS pulley is aluminium from the factory, so clearly a slight benefit!
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Stick an R32 lump in if you want high aspirated hp. I'm serious. The R32 head has enough flow for 400 aspirated hp in standard trim. The 12V has enough for ~ 290hp. 100hp per litre is easily achievable on the R32. It is not on the 12V. People have spent 5 figure sums on the 12V trying for 100hp/litre and failed miserably. But if you want to try it...... +2mm Big Valve head and gasket matched ports, titanium valve gear. 272 or higher racing cams Lightened, balanced, forged bottom end. Solid lifters and 8000rpm rev limit Etc!
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Yep, Garrett's site is very good and so is this book, which covers all aspects of modern tuning, not just turbos - http://www.holisticpage.com.au/21stCenturyPerformance_JulianEdgar%7C9780947216900 Compressor side AR - Ignore. Turbine side AR: Small number = Quick boost, but restrictive up top. Bigger number = Later boost, but less restrictive up top. I don't how many times we've discussed this. You need to refine your search techniques
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Why do you think that is a good one? What technical details do you have for it? Forgive me if this sounds rude, but you appear to know nothing about the injectors - which is very basic - but seem to know a Skyline line turbo with a welded shut penny valve is a good choice of turbo?
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Do VW even sell the old fibre one any more? I know Victor Reinz still sell that one, as well as the newer coated metal one. One thing with the metal gasket is the mating surfaces need to be spotless and dead flat. These gaskets have less 'give' in them and are far less tolerant of surface imperfections and to tend to leak at the pulley end. If you have any deep pitting in the head from using G11 coolant, you'll need to fill those in with chemical metal first. Also, the thinner gasket increases the compression a small amount, not that you'll notice it ;-)
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What you're talking about is the car harness and yes, it is longer in places. I just snaked mine into a bunch under the coolant tank and you couldn't see it. Not sure what the issue is here?
