FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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That only becomes a problem at big boost pressures but Schimmel had no issues with lean running at 40psi boost with a 3% compensation on the back bank. All 6 of my plugs were the same colour @ 1 bar with his SRI. You would normally see sootier plugs where there is an airflow imbalance. Injector quality has a lot to do with it as well. Injectors that atmosie quickly and get into the air stream are far better than those that just wash the intake walls. I would stick to the standard inlet for now and see how that goes. If you feel you need more top end flow, you can swap to an SRI a bit
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Agreed Jim, wasn't trying to cause a big debate or anything! A short runner on an otherwise standard car I agree won't be to many people's liking, but if you have the 3.6 final drive and cams etc, it's a completely different engine and one people would love in the mid to top end :-)
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It's not a waste of money at all. Schimmel's sri DOES give 20hp. I ran it on my standard engine before going turbo and it made 40hp more with an s/c compared to the stock inlet. With boost the standard intake restricts the flow, both in 12 and 24v applications. They restrict top end power in nasp applications too. I can't speak of non schimmel intakes though but most of the ebay specials i've seen look shit.
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Yeah me too, although was the round shape (MK3?) SRI130. That felt like a quick car back in 1991, but now 130hp isn't worth getting out of bed for :-) That's what mine was initially. 12psi pulley through an IC and 8psi at the throttle, 280hp. Then I fitted the schimmel SRI and took the IC off and power shot up to 321hp, but torque stayed the same as 8psi, PMSL!!! Hardly feckin worth it in my case....and that 320 horse soon fell down to well below 300 once the old heatsoak kicked in..... I was also running Aquamist water injection at that time but it didn't do much. Should have run 50/
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This is an SRI.... :-) All of the supercharger installs I've seen with an intercooler make more torque than those without and further more, that torque is consistent. S/Cs without an IC pull a good first run on the dyno, but come the 4th or 5th run, you're 30% down on power. The main probelm with ICs and S/Cs is boost soak because they cant' speed up to compensate like turbos can. My V9F dropped 4psi filling an interooler. Rotrexes may fair better.
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Hmmm, changing oil and cams won't cause the tappets to go into meltdown..... did you make sure the little green O ring didn't drop out of the chain cover? This would be the section the tensioner bolt screws into. Without that little O ring, your chains won't tension properly and that will make a deathly racket....
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Anyone near you with a proper RossTech lead and the latest copy of VCDS? Tappet noise is persistent, pinking is engine load related. Moving the MAF away certainly helps. I had quite a long section of ducting under the wing, but I was on OBD1 and needed to keep the MAF horizontal. OBD2 seems less fussy about orientation but OEs do fit MAFs at certain angles for a reason though. Does your MAF have the air straightener fitted still?
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Ah the EOS, I keep forgetting about that thing. I'm not sure what flavour of 3.2 that got. Rumour has it it's got a FWD 02M aswell, but my mate at the dealer can't seem to back this up on ETKA. Thanks for the MK4/MK5 power info.
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I'm in the middle of a MK5 R32 install and the sheer volume of differences I've seen between the 3, sorry, 4, types of 24V engine are ridiculous!! Different port shapes and sizes, different valves, different intakes, different cams and VVT adjusters, different looms, different gaskets, different head bolts, different injectors.....you name it. Even the bloody ignition coils vary in length!! My advice to anyone contemplating gonig 24v is to get the whole darn lot from the *same* donor car. Mixing and matching different bits of R32 and 24V will lead you down an expensive dead end. Well actuall
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3 bolts instead of 4 clamping the throttle isn't enough to cause the ECU to throw a fit, but well done for spotting and rectifying it. This all reminds me of my S/C days with the oil vapours dripping down onto the MAF, water getting on the MAF and all such fun and games! The way the PCV vents back into the intake and dropping straight down onto the MAF was a big design flaw on VF Engineering's part, but we're not here to criticise your hardware :-) The MAF is king though. If he's not happy, nothing else is happy, especislly so in boosted applications, so make doubley sure the King is happy a
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/\ completely agree with all of that, especially the 1.06 with cams and short runner. You get a very elastic powerband like a BMW M engine. Torque too early on a VR usually = busted gearbox and / or frequent visits to the tyre fitters.
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Custom map by Stealth Racing every time :-)
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Teach you? Sure. What do college lecturers charge by the hour and pay me the same ;-) GT35R. That is all :-)
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Those injectors are a dual spray for 4 valve heads. VR6 injectors are single cone. Does turning the injectors whilst running smooth it out? I can 100% guarantee it's not the cams if they were fitted and timed correctly. Last chance hotel - Put the standard chip back in and see if things improve. If not, you defintely have a major f'ck up somewhere.
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Yeah, the shorter the final drive, the quicker the car will accelerate and will also reduce the top speed. If you make it too short, you end up neednig a 6th though!
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Yeah no problem, all info is worthy info in my book! I've seen your posts on the other forums and we established Vince is the main man for you on this occasion. I am still learning a lot about these 24V engines (some of it the hard way) as I muddle through my project, so apologies for any misinformation I may have said about the AUE engine and it's VVT. Is there no option of your customer swapping to a BDE/BDF? Did you get that engine in NZ? People in the UK are generally only interested in the R32 flavour of 24V, so the BDEs tend to go for peanuts. I'm just thinking out loud that a
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You could do the much praised 3.6 diff into standard gearbox mod? But only if it's out already, otherwise it's a lot of work and expense if you don't have the space and tools to do it yourself! The 3.6 isn't as manic as the 3.9 but it's enough of a difference to make the car feel livlier but without totally wrecking the fuel economy!
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Doesn't the V5 have like a 3.9 final drive? Fun in a VR6 but very short for motorway cruising. I think 80mph will put you at 4000rpm. Stock gearbox will pull 100 for the same rpm IIRC. Your cruise economy will go for a burton big time!
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I feel the media are largely to blame for this. The current generation of youths watch extreme sensationalism on the news about how the country is going to schitt, how Britain has too many immigrants, how we don't make anything anymore, how crime is rife and goes unpunished, how the army and Police are being cutback, how taxes are going up, fuel is going up, food is going up, everything is going up!! With such negativity constantly being crammed in our faces it's impossible for it to not boil over into rage on the streets. It's exacly what the media wanted. They should be held accountable
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Going through this myself and the Golden Rule no 1 is this:- Get as much from the donor car as humanly possible!!! If you get bare engines (block & head with no ancills) and no loom etc, you're into a nightmare of expense and pain! Thankfully a lot of the MK4/5 parts are considerably cheaper than 12V parts but even so, getting everything you need at the start is absolutely key and the difference between getting the motor in over a weekend or taking months.
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Completely agree Jim. Many injectors are designed for multivalve heads and won't work that great in a 2 valve VR6 head, which is why sticking to the tried and testeds is best. I used the Saab ones in an attempt to get better idle quality which is often what you lose with big injectors, but the 150 series are ancient now and my 500cc Densos idle better than the stock pea shooters!! They weren't cheap tho :-(
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LOL, you soon grow out of exhaust droning when you have to do a 2 or 3 hour journey on a motorway :-) I've been around in this VW lark for many years and I've yet to see a substantial improvement in power over the stock exhaust. The Corrado's standard system in particular is rather good indeed. Turbos and boost, different kettle of fish, but n'asp... small pipes for torque....big pipes for top end :-)
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You've got to do these things once to try it...... my only advice on that is - don't chuck he standard exhaust in the bin! ;-) You'll get better results with a nice system, like a Jetex 2.5". It'll give you more top end flow but without the horrendous racket to go with it!
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I used those exact injectors at one point in my build and they were fine at ~ 12psi and ~ 390hp. I ran them at 4 bar. I reckon you could probably run 450hp from those @ 4 bar, then think about switching to something around 500cc.
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They are 360cc @ 3 bar. 415cc @ 4 bar.
