swiftkid

Dutch build has been working on one for a while, looks pretty smart and can be used on a smart phone.

I tried an ag (early coilpack) on my cp (late coilpack) and it didn't work plus plug wouldn't fit unless I cut a tab off. You will need matching ecu

Possibly teaching you how to suck eggs here but did you remember to put the earth back on the rocker cover bolt? Is it a 2.8 or 3.2 24v by the way?

I'm currently doing an r32 conversion into my Corrado vr6, I've finally got it running so now my attention has turned to the little bits... The tacho is not working, I've been told that apparently the ecu sends an analogue signal out but has no pin, so I've put the pin in, unfortunately it doesn't seem to have worked... Bugger! So I have a couple of options, either piggy back off the coil or get a canbus adapter. Now thinking about the canbus adapter I might be able to use the oil temp sensor from sump and get the tacho working. Anyone got any advise on what canbus adapter is suitable? Or whe

Also interested in the options, just picked up an Audi 3.2 from an A3. Also sent an email through the website, think it was early on in the week so maybe the contact page was down.

Well its for 2 reasons really, firstly I hate how the loom has to snake round, and there are other places that just doesn't fit 100% like the wiper motor rubber etc. and rather than faffing about, I have a corrado loom sat in my garage that I know fits perfectly. you can hide it but I know its there and it bugs me, mine just . Secondly, I'm just interested if it can be done. I know it will help other corrado owners who want to go obd2 as it will be about a 4 hour job without the scary loom cutting! I know how daunting it was just looking at the loom unwrapped thinking "that has to go back tog

Yea I know there were a fair few differences, what I maybe should have put was that my obd2 conversion is running and running fine, almost everything working as it should. Its just the loom has to snake round itself in the engine bay and just looks terrible. When I did my conversion, the MAF and lambda plug was the same which is the main 2 differences in the fusebox to engine bay loom, I actually ran the obd1 lambda sensor for a while until I had a chance to swap it over.

Yes, the ISV is built into the throttle body but that loom would have to use the OBD2 anyway but its the other part I'm wondering about. The fan plugs are the same, I didn't change the fans or the fan controller, just plugged them in. Can't remember if they are working 100% though, havn't ran my car in about 6 months but if I recall I had a problem with either stage 2 or 3 not kicking in but I think thats another issue.

Basically I heard a rumour a while ago that the late OBD1 loom could be used with OBD2. I have an OBD2 converted corrado but obviously the loom is routed different to the mk3 and just doesn't fit like I want it to without having to cut and shorten wires which I'm not prepared to do. My corrado is a 1995 with a CP ecu, I know I'd have to leave the engine loom in but does anyone know if I could use the corrado fusebox to engine bay loom? The only additional plug I know that the corrado doesn't have is the ambient air temp sensor (near the ECU)

Well the car has been sat for a while (getting a respray) but I'll try. Basically I converted it to obd2 from very late spec corrado obd1 (CP ECU with immobiliser), so left the immobiliser on. A couple of weeks later I parked up in town, turned the engine off then went to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. Sprayed all the terminals with wd40, even the earths to make sure all the connections were ok. After that I bought an ecu with the immobiliser removed, plugged it in and same thing. Unplugged it and plugged the original ECU back in and started fine and ran fine for about a month. This is

Not sure what dies to be honest, just starts then cuts out after a couple of seconds. Think the ECU just cuts everything. I've read somewhere that you need to go into the ECU settings in vagcom and change it so it recognises the key but I only have vcds lite so can't change settings Just seems strange that I have an ecu with an immobiliser removed and still cuts the engine. Almost seems like i've been ripped off and sold a bog standard ecu

Well I've had this exact problem before but its reared its ugly again, this time with vengeance. The car starts then immediately stops, immobiliser I hear you cry with tired voices, I agree however here is the twist. I bought an ecu with the immobiliser removed, or so I was told and same thing. I have tried my original transponder, an obd2 transponder, 2 different halo's with 2 different key chips and nothing. The car is a 95 Corrado VR6 converted to obd2. I have ran vagcom on the car and firstly it came up with error code 01176 - Key (65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent) I have then swapped o

Right, just thought I would update this incase people are searching for topics. Basically I ran a log on a 15 minute drive, to me it looked like a bunch of numbers but the lambda was doing its job so was going into closed loop which was good! I was then told that the lambda was adapting a hell of a lot, the figures were fluctuating between -10 to +15 in a very short space of time suggesting the lambda was working very hard to keep it running right. This suggested that there was a problem with the MAF but as the car still ran fine and the lambda was within the adaption limits no error codes ca

Well i've had vagcom running on the water temp and that seems fine, it could be that there is a problem with the oil sender but it was fine before the conversion which suggests its still fine and I have a problem. Theres no error reports coming up on vagcom, had a carbon canister error but cleared that and its not come back. Just taken these readings as someone suggested it may be running lean. Problem is I have no idea where to start problem solving if it is! does anyone know if any of these readings are out of the norm

Right, might bit a bit of a long post this one so grab some popcorn. Basically I have recently converted to obd2 and whilst I was doing it stuck a 6 branch and VT front engine mount (just so you know all the information). At the time I left the lambda sensor from obd1 on for a couple of weeks until I managed to find time to swap it over. I was getting horrific mpg but now it seems to have got better with the new lambda sensor. My problem is that the engine temp seems to be running at 114-120 degrees, it doesn't run any different, performance is the same (obviously better now its obd2 but other