FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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VW Tools 3120 and 3121 will make your life a lot easier. 3121 is the correct drift and the 3120 is a 7mm reamer for making them perfectly round again after fitment. If you don't ream them after fitting to the head, the valves will bind. What valve spring remover did you use out of interest? £120 just to fit guides is a rip off imo.
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TDIs and 1.8Ts use miniscule turbos and stock sized side mounts are nowhere near man enough for a GT30 or bigger, at any boost pressure. People are so hung up on psi. Forget psi and think flow.
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That's true. In which case, there's no point even going down the OBD2 road, just megasquirt your 2.9.
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Warmer climates tend to have a colder grade plug. The standard plug in the US is a 6. Look up spark plug heat ranges on Google for an explanation :-) But if your service book says, 5, then use a 5.
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Yeah I would try a new cap first. Get one of the blue ones from VW. If it's still leaking, it's sadly doing it's job and venting the excess pressure (otherwise your hoses and plastics would explode apart!) and you still have a problem. A split hose / stat housing / crack pipe etc can introduce air into the system, so an air lock is the best case scenario. Split head gasket is the worse case I reckon :-(
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Yes you can sir :-) Is the 5 heat grade correct for South Africa though? I would expect one plug colder for you guys. BKR6E. I've used all manner of garbage plugs in my VR Turbo and it was just as happy with those as it was the expensive brand named plugs.
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Yeah the OBD2's extra torque comes from the smaller bore throttle body and smaller intake plenum. It doesn't quite have the top end pull of the 2.9 Corrado engine, but in the real world you'd be hard pressed to seperate the two...... OBD2 has much better software too. VAG / Bosch's mapping usually consists of seperate maps for just about every conceivable driving scenario. In OBD1, I think it has 16 if I remember right. OBD2 has something like 64, although quite a few of those will be the throttle controller maps, but all in all, it is a much better ECU, especially for boost :-)
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UP is just a platinum tip for extended life, but it's all b0llocks. Just use cheap plugs. VR6's foul them up fairly quickly, so expensive (and pointless) iridiums are a waste of money, imo :-)
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Or just fit an R32 engine if you want to stay normally aspirated :-)
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I'd love to try one of these some day - http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/vw/mk3/vr6/exhaust/the-ultimate-vr6-exhaust-header.html 10hp and 15lbft gain - to the wheels!!
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Apart from the R32, not especially :-) The missus has a MK7 Polo 1.8T, which is essentially a MK4 Golf. They're well made and all and VERY cheap parts compared to Corrados, but they're dull to drive. Too much positive caster removes all the steering feel. Good engine though, when freed from the emissions shackles!
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I used "0 gauge" battery cable, which is common in ICE circles. Use stuff that has 100s of strands as it's a lot more flexible than the OE stuff. Please also consider your safety, sorry to sound boring! 1) Make sure the battery is well secured. If it's screwed to the boot floor on a peice of wood, the rear seats won't stop it flying though and hitting the back of your head, soaking your face in sulphuric acid. It needs to be firmly bolted down. Mercs and BMWs tend to have them tucked down in an inner wing cavity and rigidly bolted down. 2) Fuse the battery wire at both sides of the bul
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A 1.8T conversion is the easiest way to nick turbo bits from another car. It's such a popular mod these days you can probably get it in and running over a weekend. If you really love the big 6 though, the little 4 pot is obviously a no go. It is actually a really good engine when removed from it's bland as hell MK4 based donor car.
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Aye, no semis, KYs, clutches or buttons required, just the good old shorter final drive as the Pete man said :-) Although, if you want some tasty 6 speed action the easy way, get an 02S from a non-GTI MK5 Golf, Leon etc. It's basically a 6 speed O2A, but made by VW, so will be reliable and bolt onto the existing mounts etc, no need for new driveshafts and welding like the 02M. "But the 02S is a 4 cylinder gearbox" I hear you cry. Indeed it is. A gentleman on the Corrado forum has fitted one to his VR6 by basically swapping the gears into his VR6 bell housing. Sweet. One caveat though, this
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Yeah if I remember correctly, N80 only directs carbon can vapours into the intake at idle, so if the valve isn't connected, that does explain your lack of adaptations. Glad you solved it! Try wrapping the valve in some foam or something, which should quieten it down a bit!
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The ECU is expecting N80 to be connected, so I would reconnect it, even if you're not venting the carbon can into the intake. Remappers often change the Eprom label file to their own name, so look for that in the top right corner of the engine module page. Have you got an air fuel ratio guage (wideband - narrowband meters are next to useless) to verify that your ECU isn't in perfect tune? Although you are right, it's unusual to see an ECU not making minor adjustments at best.....
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The only charger that doesn't need compression lowering is the Vortech V9, mainly because it's pretty small and comes in very progressively. For turbos and rotrexes, I would go straight to 8.5:1 8.5:1 with a turbo / charger is fine 'off boost'. 8.5:1 with no charger or turbo will feel a bit flat low down but a lot more timing can wake it up again, but that needs a remap.
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Hey Martin Forget standard compression and boost mate! Get that spacer onboard :-) There's a lot of bullschitt on the Vortex about stock compression and 10, 15, even 20psi of boost. Don't believe a word of it and certainly do not follow their lead!
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Ah right, sorry, forgot to say I converted my Corrado to OBD2, so no ISV necessary! ISV plumbing and pipework is easy to make up though. I did it with the turbo and it worked fine.
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You will never get lower than ambient without some kind of refridgeration method. That's why chargecoolers are so popular in the states - you can put ice in the water tank and get lower than ambient :-) The problem with the standard IAT sensor is as you say, response time. It can take well over 20 seconds to register a change a temperature. IAT is more critical with turbo engines, hence why VW used a more responsive one on the 1.8Ts and yep, your current software is tuned around the standard IAT sensor. If you wanted to use the 1.8T one, you'd need to know the voltage to temp scale and in
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I didn't notice any power difference when I put OBD2 on my 2.9, but it did drive a lot nicer than OBD1! The ~100cc difference barely does anything. The main mechanical reason the 2.9 is 'faster' is because of the higher flowing intake (bigger plenum) and it also had a higher rev limit than the 2.8, so could hang onto the gears for longer. And the Corrado's bodyshell is waaaaaaaay more aerodynamic. If anyone's owned a MK2 Golf and then gone to a Corrado, they will know what I'm talking about :-) get MK2s to 100mph and you hit an aerodynamic brick wall. Corrados don't stop pulling unt
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Can't see the pics but yeah, it's a Garrett TA3107. Like you, I can find no info on it other than it being fitted to an agricultural diesel generator with a max rpm of 2200 :-) I did see a site advertising one for < £400 brand new though. Hope you didn't pay more than that for it! Personally I wouldn't use it. A turbo made for a diesel generator may not perform to the same standards as one made for a petrol engine and it certainly isn't going to be too happy with Exhaust gas temps more than twice the rating it was designed for. It's up to you mate, it might work really well, it might
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Turbine AR is OK. Compresso AR you can ignore really. Is it a 2" outlet? The T60-1 and GT35 have 2.5" AR.70 outlets, which is handy if you want 2.5" boost pipes all the way through. The GT3283 should be an ideal middle ground between the GT30 and GT35, although I have looked at it's exact specs yet. Got a link to the one you bought?
