FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Isn't that a bit hot for boost? Bosch heat ranges are the opposite of NGK's. I.e. the bigger the number, the hotter the plug. Most Bosch boost plugs are usually a 5, such as the F5DPOR (S2 plug), which is the equivalent of a 7 in NGK.
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For superchargers you may not need to faff around with the gap, especially if the boost is 12 psi or less. I never gapped any of my plugs when mine was S/C'd. High boost turbo engines may need gapping but the standard 0.7mm gap most plugs are preset to is fine. You guys should just import a bucket load of NGK-R5671A-7 from the states. $2 (£1.20) each and as good as anything else for boosted VR6s, if not better. At a quid each, you can afford to waste some faffing around.... I use them on my VRT and they're better than plugs costing 10x as much.
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They will fit the VR6 if they are the right length, i.e. 68mm O ring to O ring. They will more than likely be a split pattern for 4 valve heads, which isn't suitable for a 2V VR6 head....
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You just need to make sure the wideband will screw fully into the boss without fouling. Some narrowband bosses aren't wide enough for wideband!
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The stock cat has a lambda socket in it, which is where I would put it personally. You may need to check the lamdba socket can take wideband though because narrowbands have smaller diameter tips. You will see what I mean when you try and screw a wideband probe into a narrowband hole! Good choice of wideband kit. I like that AEM setup very much.
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The HX35 seems quite popular in the states, so maybe the Vortex might give you some answers....
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Nah standard compression mate. I'm just keen to see how much you can get out of a n'asp 24V with simple mods :-) Not really part of the nature of this thread I guess, but as I don't have a gallery threads, here's as good as anywhere i suppose!
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Haven't done a lot on the car lately, but decided to get the 24V built up and out of the way today. Timing up a 24V bottom end is exactly the same as a 12V. TDC on No.1 cylinder. Notch in the crank pulley aligns with a rib on the front crank seal housing..... Crank sprocket has a ground tooth which aligns with the rear main bearing cap.... Same lower tensioner and chains..... And the intermediate shaft position. The arrow aligns with a notch in the block.... And remember guys, the intermediate shaft only aligns correctly once every 4 turns of the crank. A very common mistake people make wi
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Power Steering Fluid v ATF?
FishWick replied to vr6_super's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Whoaaa, someone's got a massive pic somewhere shunting the reply windows right over.....Pete? LOL! Use the VAG fluid only. The ZF racks fitted to the VR6 seem quite sensitive to oil quality. You can get a rack rebuild kit from VW as it happens, which is a little brown box with some seals and bearings. Costs 90 quid. Cheaper than a whole new rack @ ~£600+VAT exchange. I've never seen physical wear to the actual rack and pinion themselves and slack can be taken out with the rear adjuster, so throwing 9 sheets at an old rack is a good investment imo. -
Some people are so lazy..... Google. "VR6 metal head gasket" Third link down. 021-103-383N Took all of 5 seconds typing.
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I wouldn't do it personally. 1 tooth out on the VR6 isn't end of the world stuff, but it's enough to cause problems further down the line.
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But running a tooth out on a non-VVT engine means the burn takes place when the exhaust valve is still open, so will burn it out prematurely.
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No point in them at all unless frequently revving up to 8000rpm or more, which the VR6 won't really like anyway due to it's crank throw. If you ever wondered why M3s sound like a bucket of bolts at low revs, it's because they use solid lifters. Do you really want a VR6 that sounds like a Talbot Horizon?
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I think the one I went out in had an M90 Eaton and it made some nice noises. It had a second throttle on the inlet and ran a chargecooler. It ran really well.
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I think the idler pulley was for non-AC engines only, but i could be wrong. It's been a while since playing with SCs.
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You shouldn't need them any more, no. Pretty sure Stealth don't use them anymore. Not sure about United Motorsport. If you do need one, I had good luck with this company - http://www.splitsec.com/products/SignalClamps.htm What it does is prevent the MAF output exceeding 5V. When the ECU sees 5V on the MAF line it thinks there is a fault and shuts off the injectors.
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You'll need to get under there and measure it, but generally speaking older cars got a longer cat, especially if it's a Corrado.
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The benefit of an Eaton is midrange torque where a Centrifugal charger has none. I've been out in a member on here's Eaton MK3. Can't remember his name but it absolutely flew.
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What charger is it? The old Z Engineering kits were mapped with the MAF downstream of the boost, but they only ran 6 psi and the ECU could just about cope with that. Technically speaking, MAF should always be upstream of boost but if it works, it works. Leave it.
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Any Bosch 150 series injector will fit in the VR6. Why are they so cheap? Well, no part no given for starters and he doesn't state if the static flow rate is at 3 or 4 bar and genuine Bosch 440s have a green cap and cost £50+ each. They look like they've been sprayed black, so are either chinese fakes or not what they say they are, but it's your choice. Take a gamble on them if you feel the need but remember you asked for our opinions on them if the motor runs lean and detonates itself to death :-)
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Yep. Was going to say why retard one bank of 3 and advance the other. Doesn't make any sense. As UM say, are you getting confused with the 24V's VVT ? That works because the fuel is adjusted accordingly. Moving the cam timing on the 12V just means the injection occurs at the wrong time.
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5ms dwell is a little too much mate. I run 3ms and have no trouble with spark strength :-)
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Cam identification - without removing cam cover??
FishWick replied to veedubdave's topic in Engine Tuning
Yep, standard cams. -
You can't do a 3.1 with bore alone, you need a different crank and pistons. I would check for evidence of this work in the history as it costs £1000s to do properly. Back in the day only ABT made a 3.1 crank, but these days I think you can muck around with R32 cranks and the like.... Yeah OBD2 is the better ECU but OBD1 isn't the end of the world.
