FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Big valve head is a good move and that + cams is even better. If the valve seats have gone a bit rusty, running the engine will soon get rid of that! My r32 head was the same. Left in a garden for 2 years. Completely rusted up inside but a 100 miles later it was running perfect!
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OBD2 is definitely worth it. Feels so much torquier low down and pulls just as well to the red line.
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With my GSS340 mounted as low as possible, I only ever got surging when below the red and when accelerating hard round a corner. It's more of an irritation than a significant problem and doesn't harm the engine.
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Perhaps a couple right at the top end. Not worth it imo.
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Just to clarify, it's the GSS340 you need, not 430 ;-) Even mounted right at the bottom of the pump housing it will still surge. I've been using them for years and not yet come up with a solution for it. It's quite simple really. Walbro need to replicate the OE pump's return system, but they won't for what ever reason. The OE pump has a feed from the return swirl pot directly into the pump head. The Walbro does not, which is why it surges.
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I had their 4 branch and system on my MK1 Golf 16V and it was complete sheet! Avoid. It's cheap for a reason!
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Isn't that because flat 4 and 5 cyl engines get their noise from the firing order? Straight 4 and 6s tend to sound bland without induction tuning.
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And what a noise that is :-) Mine's decatted and I've got the metallic raspy resonance most R32 owners complain about, but I love it :-) The fix is another silencer / resonator, or a cat (lol) but nah, I like the noise!
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I mounted mine in the rubber bellow just after the airbox. I run an R32 lump now and I had the same dilema. I use an open bead Marelli (aka Ford Cosworth) air temp sensor on my DTA. They're on ebay for about 25 quid. Instant response like the 1.8T sensor, but that isn't so important on Naturally aspirated. You may find cosworth easier to mount as it's an M14 thread. The 1.8T needs an insertion hole plus a tapped hole for the bolt. Don't even think about drilling / tapping the stock plastic intake. Nowhere near enough meat on them!
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Short runners are even worse. Just sounds like a bland old euro box and not even 6 cylinder! You should still get a bit of VR6 induction noise in a high gear, high load, low rpm before the turbo spools up though? A mate's Corrado with a GT30 on it + stock intake certainly did.
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Yeah all 24Vs take an air temp reading from the MAF. The 12V's IAT sensor was useless. Dreadful response time and it heatsoaked chronically when parked up after a run.
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If you click the silencers on Jetex's custom catalogue, it gives you the dimensions usually. Their systems are quiet because the bore drops to 2" inside the silencers. It drops to 1.5" in the first silencer of their 3 box VR6 system!! The custom build silencers are full bore I believe, which are dronier. Having seen the quality of Magnaflow versus Jetex versus Borla, the latter are much better, but no suppliers over here. Jetex are very good though, easy and quick to get and good service.
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Is it going into a MK2 / MK3? If so, you'll need to drastically modify the front engine mount to make room for it all. Are you turboing it? If not, the OE cooler is plenty I reckon.
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Really? My oil hasn't gone over 80 deg yet! I'm using the VR6 sensor screwed into the auxillary output on the R32 oil filter housing. Summer and tracks will be different though I expect!
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Why don't you just try it? You'll soon get your answer. Technically the R32 and 12V blocks are completely different, but the OE heat exchanger fittings are the same, so your Mocal will probably work. Do you actually need it though? My R32 uses the 12V heat exchanger and it the oil and water don't get anywhere near as hot as the 12V used to.
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Not worth it under 400hp on the VR6 imo. The cost outweighs the benefits.
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Is that a complete Jetex exhaust or made up from their custom parts? How many silencers? What's the noise like? 2.75" is a popular upgrade for R32s because of the flow but not really necessary on a 12V. 2.5" is plenty. Any gains you get from increased exhaust diameter (in n'asp applications) are only at wide open throttle approaching max rpm, so it's only a top end gain thing really. Completely agree with Pete. The shorter final drive is what makes a 12V come alive and completely disagree with Jim about it being a 'fool's upgrade'. I got 27mpg overall mpg from my VRT with a 3.68 final dr
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So the softer spring in the DV was allowing boost to escape?
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essex,schimmel 263's, remap and midlife crisis! advice needed
FishWick replied to ssaunders's topic in Engine Tuning
I'm from Essex as well and I always drive up to Stealth. God knows why AMD want the car for 3 days but they are - how can I say this politely and avoid being sued for deformation of character? - not satisfactory :-) -
You'd need to put the dry ice into some kind of sealed container that the air intake kind sucks around, if that makes sense?! I'd love to know if a regular A/C system is powerful enough to chill boosted air. I have a feeling it isn't. How about a truck A/C system? LOL!
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As Matt said, that is definitely, 100% a stock chip. Nearly all chip holders are the decryptor type to decipher the encrypted software (copyright protection) and the fact yours has no holder means it's stock. No aftermarket tuner solders a 44 pin chip back onto the board.
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If dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide, would sucking that into the engine not extinguish the flame? lol :-)
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how much BPH will a standard in tank pump handle??
FishWick replied to v_dubberoon's topic in Engine Tuning
Walbro GSS340 is the one you want.... 500hp capable! -
www.gruvenparts.com
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Yep, I used forge springs in my old VF bypass valve no problem. The VF one is just a copy of Forge's anyway...
