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Everything posted by FishWick
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Thread resurrection time! 2010 to present has mostly been about refinements, improvements & bodge fixes etc. The only new toy I've bought recently is a DBW controller. As the eventual aim is to go 24V Turbo, I was keen to get to grips with DBW and practice on the 12V. The poor thing is a rolling experiment So anyway, first things first, here are the necessary bits. Standard 4Motion pedal, throttle and DTA controller. By far the most awkward bit was fitting the pedal, but I won't bore you with the exact details, suffice to say it's just a process of fudging bits of metal into some ki
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How come the VR6 seems a lot easier to turbo than a V6 4mo?
FishWick replied to RACK's topic in Engine Tuning
Why don't you have a kit then? The fabrication is the most tedious bit. If you've done that and the software already, then.... ? -
How come the VR6 seems a lot easier to turbo than a V6 4mo?
FishWick replied to RACK's topic in Engine Tuning
You're in Portsmouth, why not give JKM a bell? They've done a few VRTs. Given how tight a 3" pipe is over the steering rack, I doubt any companies in the UK will put their name to a DIY downpipe. They all prefer it to be custom made in house. -
How come the VR6 seems a lot easier to turbo than a V6 4mo?
FishWick replied to RACK's topic in Engine Tuning
Here's a reasonably priced way into 24VT ownership and rather handily covers FWD (inc conversions) and 4WD. You can also retain the original intake manifold. http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/vw/mk4/vr6-24v/boost/24v-vr6-turbo-manifold.html http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/vw/mk4/vr6-24v/boost/atp-gt3076r-turbo-hardware-kit-for-24v-vr6.html Their 24V manifold looks to be a lot better quality than their 12V one. -
If you want to just monitor the AFR, then plumb the supplied Wideband probe into a spare hole in the Downpipe. Some Widebands have a simulated narrowband output, which can connect to the ECU to control the fuelling, but to be honest the factory item probably does a better job.
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If it's built for revs, then 263 - 268. Schimmel, Schrick, Autotech, DSR, etc etc. Take your pick! I find it strange that an engine of that spec was built without any consideration for cams until now???
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Is this for the later unit where the ABS pump and ECU are one unit? Or the earlier system with seperate pump / ECU and pedal sensor? If the former, can the ECU be split from the pump?
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Indeed. Turbo and super compressors create a vortex over the MAF element, which needs straightening. Otherwise just like a whirlpool, the bulk of the air flows to outer edges of the MAF tube and flows 'around' the element, and not 'over' it. If the MAF is mounted far enough away from the turbo / super, it sorts itself out, but it's not always possible.
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Oh yeah, I forgot you run a lot of boost! :-) So you're using the single coils like these? - http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5113 Let me know how they go! £40 each isn't too bad with built in amps. What plugs are you using? Bill Schimmel ran 35psi (GT45R) on stock coilpakc, 2ms dwell with no spark issues. NGK R5671A-9 plugs @ 0.022" gap.
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Looks good mate, good luck with that! Let me know how it goes :-) I'm not sure about the LS2 coils, especially if they're MSD ones. Don't run them at any more than 2.5ms dwell as they don't like it. I would try a Ford V6 coilpack. Reliable and very strong spark!
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This may sound a bit fast and furoius......................
FishWick replied to VR6-DUB's topic in Engine Tuning
Difficult to achieve on a normally aspirated motor and even with turbos, flames on gearshifts is only really achievable with anti-lag. To get flames on a standard VR you will need to get the manifold VERY VERY hot and modify the map to throw in more fuel on over-run and back the timing right off. And even then you might not always get a flame. You'll get plenty of pops and bangs though. Out of interest, why do you want to do this? Can you afford to waste so much fuel with the cost of it heading to £1.50 a litre as well? LOL! :-) -
I agree. I love playing with standalones but as you say, not everyone has the patience for them! The original cams have VW markings on them, aftermarket ones don't, which is pretty much your only clue to be honest mate. OE cams also just look better quality too, if that makes sense? The shaft casting is smoother and and the machined surfaces look better too. Also if you look at the cam lobes, the tips on original cams are very mild compared to aftermarkets.
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Have you got the factory air straightener on your MAF?
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How much hose do I need to buy for PTFE oil feed?
FishWick replied to russj249's topic in Engine Tuning
Ah, that makes sense then. I assumed you were getting the bits and making the line up yourself :-) What material are the fittings they're using? I would swerve ENS (electro plated Nickel steel) as it rusts, but it's cheaper than stainless, which is imo the best material to use on such a critical component. -
Good stuff! Yeah, it's £350 every time you need a new chip blowing. Sod that.
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How much hose do I need to buy for PTFE oil feed?
FishWick replied to russj249's topic in Engine Tuning
Erm, why not run a peice of wire around your chosen route and measure it? LOL! :-) I ran mine to the right off the filter housing, under the coilpack, bolted to the harness bracket with a P clip and then onto the Turbo. I'd say it's about 1.5m. Do you have experience with assembling 200 series PTFE lines and fittings? If not, I would buy a little extra anyway to factor in mistakes :-) Oh and sleeve the braided line because it will rub through any wires it touches in no time. -
Hmmmmm..... My left knee doesn't half ache when sat in traffic. All that up and down action on an uprated clutch and all that. As I'm nearly 40, an auto box sounds might appealing! Probably not too bad to retro fit. Only thing is, can it handle turbo grunt?
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LOL, try googling "Schimmel Performance" perhaps? :-) But they're these anyway - http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/vw/mk3/vr6/ignition-spark/sp-16v-wire-set.html
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It's mainly for OBD2 you need to worry about that. OBD1 will be easier as there's only 3 lots of ECUs IIRC, AG distributor, AG coilpack and CP immobiliser. But just make sure the numbers on the ECU sticker match yours ;-)
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The original VR6 red leads are the best bar none. The second best ones I have seen are Schimmel Performance ones. I've done 1000s of miles with those and they've been proven to ignite 40psi of boost :-)
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Yep, just so long as the ECU you use is exactly the same as your existing one, right down to the firmware revisions etc etc.
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Hmmmm, interesting! I must admit, I haven't driven a VR6 auto, but plenty of BMW autos and they were all much slower than their manual counterparts! How many speeds is the VR6 auto box?
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That transporter wing vent would be good to feed air into a stock airbox for Turbo use :-) If you want to spend 50 sheets, I would refit the factory airbox and replace all the chassis bushes to sweeten up the handling. I'm afraid 50 notes isn't going to give you much extra grunt as it's an Auto. They tend to sap too much throttle response anyway.
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If the ECU is mapped to use MAF as the main engine load, then yep, the MAF must be connected. It will work with out it, of sorts, but won't drive very well and will stall lots. The MAFless maps are ancient history now anyway. Vince solved that one long ago :-) Yeah the MAF does take a beating down in the wing. Even in my Corrado with it's lovely splash guards and things, I still used to get through 3 or 4 MAFs a year. Always a short to B+ cause of water damage. The VFEngineering kits were designed and tested in California. They're not really well suited to European cars with our frequ
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And I've used an original plastic one since 2003 with no issues :-)