FishWick
-
Content Count
2,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by FishWick
-
V8 Nova, nice one, I like your style! :-) You have definitely got the speed addiction! Are you still using those Evo injectors with resistors mate? It will take a while to get used to the MS and how your engine behaves to the map changes. Took me a while to get to grips with my DTA but because I use the car every day, I soon had a sweet map done :-) That's the only difference between DIY and Professional really - the time it takes to achieve your goal.
-
It's a lot better than the OE spec. EFR has many materials and technology not used in Vauxhalls and VAGs
-
I'm desperate trying to keep my credit card in my wallet! There's nothing wrong with my current turbo, but I'm drawn to that like a moth to light!
-
It should be fine for that. Just keep an eye on the intake temps with VAG-COM or what ever management you end up using.
-
Nice idea with the S2 wastegate. It is good, it is reliable but it's also huge! Cheap s/hand, not cheap new from Audi though :-) Agree with Matty, fit the best WG you can afford. At the moment, the best is Tial! What's the price difference between the F38 and MV-S? I'd get the latter personally. If you're spending a bunch of sovs on a wastegate, a few extra won't hurt on a better unit :-) Get the half bar spring. If you fit the 13 psi spring you can't ever have lower than that. It's nice to be able to have switchable boost levels for winter. What turbo are you running? You could just
-
Good stuff mate, sounds like you're getting close then. Good move on the Megasquirt. Motronic is OK and all but I don't like it for boost. That's a hefty plenum box you've knocked up there! Looks great.
-
Sorry guys, no updates really. It's been boringly reliable for some time now :-) A standalone is just an ECU which is fully open for race tuners and people who want the freedom to do what they like, when they like :-) It's also not bound to a set of rules and limitations imposed by the manufacturer, such as emissions constraints. Complete freedom :-). And if you understand computers and software, you will also find Standalone software to be far more logical and easy to use compared to Motronic's cock arse way of doing things in hex. I went with a standalone because the standard ECU does
-
Hey fella, how did you get on with this? I've been away for a couple of weeks.
-
Ah you're using low impedance. It doesn't usually work that great using resistors because peak and hold works differently to saturated drive (high impedance) injectors. Although they will run with a resistor, they don't quite run as they should. If I were you mate, I'd flog them and buy some Bosch EV14 550cc http://www.sprayitracing.com/52lb%20Bosch%20EV14%20High%20Impedance.htm I have some myself and they work great and you can run them at 3 bar and get some reasonable pulsewidths at idle, but it depends on your budget I guess. They're standard on some American V8s and Mustangs etc, so c
-
-
Ah OK, so you plugged the MS into the VW loom at the ECU plug. In that case the sensor ground integrity should be good. I suspect you have an issue with the crank sensor connection though, which is causing the resets? Have you tried a spare crank sensor to outrule that? You're running 630cc injectors at 4 bar? What injector pulse width are you seeing at idle? If it's less than 2ms, you might struggle to get 14.7 smoothly. A lot of big injectors lose stability at small open times. Try dropping the pressure to 3 bar and up the Pulse time. What cams you got chap? Again, big cams can
-
Mine's been standaloned for 4 years, so I've had plenty of practice :-) Did you make sure all the sensors go to the same ground? TPS, MAP, Water, air etc? Crank and cam should have their own seperate sensor grounds but it's important to make sure all the other sensors use a common ground to ensure you don't get any ground offsets. My DTA does a 'resync' when the crank sensor loses resolution momentarily, which results in a restart, so probably the same as your reset. I would check your crank sensor wiring. It shouldn't pick up any noise if you're using the VAG Crank wire. Hunting wh
-
I think rear engine would be fine balance wise. It's not like it's hanging out in the arse end like a 911. The weight would be where the back seats normally live essentially, and the VR6 cants forward too, so will be AHEAD of the rear axle line, so it's effectively mid-engined :-) Obviously it completely changes the dynamics of the car and you would have to learn how to drive it again, but I don't think it would be too bad to be honest!
-
It's £195 inc VAT
-
I'm not sure what those red lines signify to be honest . Does the MS have a diagnostic screen to monitor battery voltage, skipped crank and cam signals etc, crank resyncs? Settings for the idle valve:- Operating frequency - 100hz Max PWM = 80% Min PWM = 30% I use closed loop idle speed targetting, so my PID is Prop - 60, Int - 5 and Diff - 5 and max PID adjust of 10%. Interval delay = 0.5 sec Some Standalones need a 1N4004 diode across the idle valve pins or it won't work. You work fast mate! Got the MS in and running already, good work! Have you got the right basic engine settings? Cr
-
Could you? Yes Should you? Absolutely! Although wait until summer! :-) And how? That's the fun part! It's nice to have the weight balance of a 'BMW' layout, but a rear engine option would be easier. Check out Bill Schimmel's rather infamous RWD 24V Turbo to make sense of that suggestion in your head - http://www.spturbo.com/mainpages/bill%20added/rides/Erics92Corrado.htm Your front engine / rear drive method would be a LOT of work..... to do properly. You would need to spin the motor round to a north/south layout. Find a gearbox and modify the tunnel. Fabricate an adapter to mate you
-
Yeah as above. Can't comment on any actual gains in numbers or what the economy is like, but several people have reported a much more responsive engine after the chip went in. It's mostly done by advancing the ignition timing, which is VERY conservative on the VR6 below 4000rpm.
-
Best value chip at the moment has to be DG Autotech's. http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=151&Itemid=108
-
Hi mate I take it you're using the stock idle valve? Bosch p/n - 0280 140 512. Sounds like it's the tune to me, especially as 4 valves do the same thing. That valve is exceptionally reliable and works very well when controlled properly. It's a huge idle valve by the way. Way more flow than what's required to idle a VR6 but VW open it at quite high revs. In an attempt to 'catch' the revs early I guess. Sometimes the numbers in the maps are reversed. For example, 10% open is 10% open to most ECUs, but in some VW ECUs, 10% is actually 10% closed, or in other words, 90% open!! Could it b
-
Very similar to mine, but with GT30 instead of GT35 and Emerald management instead of DTA. He'd be into the 11s easily if his high boost settting could be put down to the tarmac!
-
I use 1mm bigger ferrea valves in mine - http://www.ferrea.com/ Stainless inlet, Inconel exhaust. Supertech are good too - http://www.supertechperformance.com/ Your machinist should be able to get either. Depending on how large you go with the valves, you may need bigger valve seats as well. It depends how much meat can be removed from stock seats without going to thin. Yes you will need to lower the compression with an 8.5:1 decompression plate. If your mechanic thinks he is going to break the piston rings, find another mehcanic!! They are easy to install, plenty of info on Google a
-
I would get a GT35R mate, or a T60-1 if you can't stretch that far. That SPA unit is unlikely to put in anywhere near as long a service life as a proper Garrett. Don't bother porting / polishing the exhaust manifold or exhaust ports in the head, but you could get the head's intake ports gasket matched though. That's pretty much all the head flowing work you need to do. Concentrate more on bigger valves and good cams instead if the budget allows!
-
30psi! Holy smokes! What AFR were you seeing at that boost? I've sent you a map mate. Watch the load points as they will differ, but it will give you an idea.
-
Believe me mate, waiting at the side of the road for the AA because the turbo water lines have ruptured is no fun. Happened to me twice with the water hoses and once with an oil line! Silicone isn't going to work for long either. I use -6 braided PTFE, which can handle 230 deg C. It's the next best thing to steel / alloy hard line. http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-06-teflon-stainless-steel-braided-hose-200-06-1073-p.asp I use the same in -4 size for the oil line as well! The water lines can be rubber or silicone off to the side away from the heat, but directy above and around the turbo, it
-
So long as you don't exceed 14 degrees throttle position you can do that. powernut, if you PM me your email address, I can send you a map. You just need to install the S80 software on PC to open it. You don't need to connect to an ECU to open and view maps. You can just click through the screens and see if it helps!
