FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Indeed :-) I was averaging about 24mpg with my Schrick, 268s etc. Mainly because the mapping needs more fuel in the midrange to compensate for the runner tuning and to reduce pinking and also the 268s give you more top end, so you tend to go up there more often than usual :-) Interestingly, my VRT averages 27mpg and it has nearly twice the power and torque :-)
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You can use anything within reason on a turbo because of the immense back pressure of the turbine wheel, but excessive overlap with Supers can see the boost going straight down the exhaust pipe, LOL!
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Try some cams mate, you might be surprised :-) It's not just the boost, forget that. Boost is boost. It's all about flow. More flow = More power. ON and OFF boost. Cams really wake up the bottom end a lot. As a test a couple of years ago, I took my SP cams out and put the standards back in, no other changes. It felt like the rear calipers were stuck on it was so much slower....
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Cheers mate! Yeah it's a lot of work and expensive to make reliable! Plenty of guys have wrecked gearboxes and clutches getting greedy with the boost. Keep it sensible and it will put in a lot of reliable miles mate :-) I had a Super 4 or 5 years ago and I'd still take the turbo to be honest, despite the extra work!
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I'm hearing a lot of praise of DG Autotech's cams - http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/ No one that I know of has done a back to back comparison of several cams on a VR6, so it's hard to make an informed decision. Or there's the usual suspects but I'm not getting into a churlish debate about them again, you pays your money and takes your choices :-)
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Is that a code reader or VAG-COM you have? Need to know the translation, i.e. Short to ground, Short to B+ or implausible signal etc etc. You wouldn't get a cam sensor fault usually from mistimed cams. You might get some lambda control adaptation errors though. It is very easy to skip a tooth when refitting the chains, done it myself a couple of times. -
Eip tuning stage-3 performance chip for vr6 obd-1?
FishWick replied to faigolfgti's topic in Engine Tuning
If it's for normally aspirated it might be OK. If it's going for a good price it might be worth a go! -
If it drives straight on the road you should be OK mate. If there is severe pulling to the left or right, then yeah, you'll need to get that sorted :-) I would clear the cam and knock VAG COM codes and see if they come back. If they do come back, Vince could end up spending a fair chunk of your dyno time investigating that instead of mapping.
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Make sure the car is not too low and that the suspension geometry is good. If he can't get it on the dyno or if it pulls all over the shop cause of bad toe / camber, you will have wasted a journey.
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276 will open the top end up quite a lot, so I'd fit some heavy duty valve springs personally. Depending on the overlap, the 276 might work OK work with a turbo, but not a supercharger.
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OK then, sounds like a good crack, I'm in. I warn you though, I like a good camp fire, but mine tend to get a bit out of hand.....
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Eip tuning stage-3 performance chip for vr6 obd-1?
FishWick replied to faigolfgti's topic in Engine Tuning
For forced induction? Having seen their turbo hardware, I wouldn't touch their software with a barge pole. EIP tuning doesn't exist any more. Probably not a wise idea using obsolete software. -
No worries chap.... My first turbo engine was a bog standard lump with spacer, BEGI fuel riser and uprated pump. Totally standard management and injectors etc. On that engine I ran a BOV and on gear changes, the AFR dropped to 9:1 with a nice cloud of black smoke out the back. You don't get flames from fuel THAT rich. What you get is bore wash, which dilutes the oil down and can accelerate bore wear. Petrol engines make best power between 12 - 13.5:1. Anything richer than 10:1 is borderline bore wash. Try and keep your fueling around 14 on cruise and 12 in boost. On standalon
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Cool, I can join any convoys along the A12! I'm always bombing around Colchester, Ipswich etc, I'm surprised I haven't bumped into any of you on the roads yet! Keep your eyes out for a purpley / Grey Corrado not exactly sticking to the speed limits, LOL! :-) I'll give the camping some thought, not really a fan of tents and camping if I'm honest!
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Was thinking £50 with some 50mm ally tube and silicon bits thrown in? It's only sitting there unused, so if you can put it to good use :-) The 25mm one you linked to is a bit small for a VRT and if you're going with OE management, you can't vent to atmosphere anyway, you would need to vent all the waste boost back into the intake (post MAF, pre turbo). Well, you can dump to the air but your fuelling will go way too rich on gearchanges and coming back onto the throttle.... you'll have the fume police breathing down your neck! If you're going standalone, you can run a BOV to atmosphere.
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Just realised there's quite a few folk from East Anglianland on here, so there's no excuse for me not going really :-) I won't be going on the 1/4 mile though as I will cry if the gearbox breaks. I'd have to dig the bike out of the shed for work, LOL!
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Yeah that's a good size valve for V6 turbos if you're using a MAF :-) I've got one of those going spare if a certain person wants to buy it ;-) LOL! Because I don't run a MAF, I'm using a Tial 50mm BOV at the moment- http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/product.php?productid=210&cat=350&page=1 which is a very splendid thing indeed! As it flows a huge amount, it gives a much more refined and deeper sound than what you get from little under-sized valves that psssshhhhht all over the place. It also only vents when it needs to aswell and I get absolutely zero compressor surge (that ch
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Is this the 70 deg opening one? Be careful. 70 deg is the point in the Engine map where lambda control takes over from the warm up maps. All these early opening stats do is prolong the warmup map, costing you more in fuel and running over rich. It's why VW use an 80 deg thermostat. If the cooling system is in good health, there is absolutely no need for a lower temp stat what so ever. If the engine is over heating, look elsewhere for problems :-)
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OK thanks for the encouragement guys, appreciate it! I've been on here long enough so it's about time I got butt out to some shows! :-) I like what's he done with the throttle cable there and yep, it pretty much is the same kit on his car!
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Wow, that is super clean! Not very practical with no wipers though, LOL! That's the only problem with daily drivers. You need boring things like indicators and wipers etc :-) Yeah I do need to get myself to some shows really! The paint lets it down though. Those shots are quite flattering tbh, it's not that good close up, LOL! After the prang I had last november, the paint no longer matches and I wouldn't feel comfortable being on a show stand with iffy paint! When / Where is the VR6OC show this year?
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Doesn't underdriving the PAS make it heavier? If you run the whole pulley set, do you get any increase in vibration? The big crank pulley is heavy for a reason - it damps out vibration, but if people don't notice any increase in harshness, I wouldn't mind trying a set. Mind you, $500 for the set!!! Jeees.....
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Mine wouldn't work on your Emerald mate but it could probably be fudged to work on it! It was made, from scratch, by a very clever chap on the DTA forum. He made a few of them for people but he's moved onto Pectel SQ6 Management now and doesn't really get involved with the DTA stuff any more. Have a word with Mr Walker's electronic's whizz. Does the K3 have a CAN line? The display reads the ECU's data stream. All standalones tend to have that so that they can run Digital dashboards etc. Mine also allows connection to the laptop via an inbuilt USB driver etc, so I don't need to unplug it
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It's fine when cold because of the bigger pulse width on the injectors. What AFR does yours hot idle at? 2ms hot idle was too rich wasn't it if I remember, around 13 AF? I don't think the injectors are helping you tbh, but you could try getting the Motronic remapped on the dyno?
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It was made for my DTA ECU mate, won't work on the stock ECU :-) You can get similar devices that talk to your standard ECU, such as PLX Devices's KIWI - http://www.plxdevices.com/
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Sure thing mate and thanks for the interest :-) Here she is, currently at 194,000 miles. Everything's original except the engine block and obvious things like wheels and suspension etc. The motor. I'm hoping to tidy a lot of this up this year with Drive By Wire and a new turbo with built in wastegate and dumpvalve :-) Interior shots. I've tried to keep the gauges discreet and OE looking. Top right we have EGT in the clocks, top middle we have fuel pressure, middle we have a custom made display that display's the ECU's data stream, and then at the bottom we have oil pressure and boos
