FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Hmmm, box off and strip down again I'm afraid, plus the cost of a s/hand 3.68 crownwheel, which can usually be had for around 50 quid. Or get a Corrado G60 gearbox from ebay, code CBA and nick the diff out of it. When you had your box done recently, did you get the diff pins replaced with ARP bolts?
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When you say ebay manifold, do you mean the ATP copy? Did I put in the turbo guide how to modify it to prevent warping? Yep, Rising rate reg not needed if fitting larger injectors. That's the old school quick and dirty way of doing it! The GT32 is OK and all, but if you're wanting to put those 268s to good use, you need the turbo flow to match. If you want full boost by 4000rpm, go for the 1.06 turbine housing as that does pull harder than the 0.82 flavour past 6K. As you say, you have a MK2 so you can afford to sacrifice a few torques low down ;-) And personally, if you're going for a ta
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Gearing, torque band and the Subaru has *real* 4WD, lol! :-) My mate used to have a JDM spec classic which had been beefed up in Japan before coming here. It was only something like 210hp but because it had race diffs and gears in it. it was utterly savage through the gears. It didn't last long though and the centre diff blew, lol Sweeeeeet! Well done fella, that's awesome! :-) As for the OP's question, the answer is:- A lot faster if you fit the 3.68 final drive ;-)
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Powernut :-) As the OP is from American land, he may get some answers closer to home on the good old Vortex. They have a standalone management subforum and they love their squirts in there. But as ever, I am more than happy to share some numbers to get people started. Irrespective of make, standalones are standalones and still need the same numbers to work ;-)
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I used a scaffold pole which made short work of it :-)
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You can indeed. As you say, just bash out the internals with a hefty pry bar or something. The empty cat shell actually makes for a nice expansion chamber, so it might feel a little perkier down low. No it won't through any fault codes.
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Yeah they do make a nice difference. I use the Schimmel Cromoly 9lb one and with the shorter 3.68 final drive, it's pretty accelerative. A standard VR6 with standard final drive feels like a completely different car....for the worse!
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I thought the AUE is a 24V engine? Which is what I was getting at: adapt a 24V ME7 to run on a 12V, which you've done, so good stuff! :-) I think it must be the AUE 24V I have then, not the BDE. Pretty sure mine only has VVT on the inlet, which is what I wanted really. Do you happen to know the VGI and VVT switching rpms? Hmmmm, not a fan of VW's torque strategy mapping personally. It does horrible things in our standard ME7 Polo 1.8T!! The simpler, the better as far as I'm concerned :-)
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250 - 270whp from a n'asp 12V is a great achievement!
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Ah nice one! Is that the American MK4 12V ECU? I know they use a DBW throttle, which has to be ME7. Even better then if there's already an ECU that can do the job! 85mm must have been a bit snappy? The standard 63mm plate I find is responsive enough :-) Yep! Civic Type Rs are brilliant cars for the 1/4 mile. Light weight, flow huge amounts of air and like you say, they only need 10psi to break into the 11s.
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I hear the 288s have practically no idle. How are the 284s on the street? Can they still hold a stock 680rpm idle?
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Upper rad hose Diameter and Oil sandwich plate fitting
FishWick replied to v6horse's topic in Engine Tuning
32mm IIRC. You don't need that for fitting an oil pressure sensor, you just need a need T peice and split the existing feed 2 ways. -
You won't be spitting anything at pedestrians unless you're running a turbo and bouncing it off the limiter, so don't worry about catching someone's trousers on fire :-) I'm sure I read somewhere that side exits are OK if fitted at the factory, but retro fitted raises a few eyebrows. I think it's another one of those grey areas some testers turn a blind eye too!
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Rebuilding any of the VAG 6 pots isn't cheap, so you may want to consider going 2.8 24V as one of those with an ECU and harness should only set you back £500ish. To rebuild a VR6 with new pistons, valves etc will set you back a few K. In many cases it's not good enough to do a rehone and rering because of bore ovalisation.
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If you're going short runner and pushing to 7500rpm, then I would do the springs and titanium valve caps. Anything up to stock rpm limit is fine on the standard springs.
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But the schimmel intercooler is the only one I've seen that doesn't rob 4 psi of boost.
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But if the pump can supply 5 bar, the atomisation will be far better, at the expense of injector lag. Agreed though, it would be a fairly fruitless excercise.
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It was going to be imminently, but since the 12V appears to have survived it's ordeal, I will relax a bit on the 24V development. I have a 24V chain set, uprated 24V intermediate sprocket and 264/260 techtonics cams on the way over from Schimmel. I'm going to run it naturally aspirated first and push for 100hp/litre. Everything you do to improve a n'asp engine makes every psi of boost that much stronger ;-)
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Thanks mate :-) Yes it's great binning off all the ISV stuff and the idle quality is just so much better! Looks like the detonation problems were caused by fuel supply issues, so I'm fitting a new pump and filter this weekend. There was also an air leak between the Throttle and intake elbow which wasn't helping matters, but I've corrected that too. Drives superb now :-) Brings a 12V a bit more up to date! You don't need a standalone mate, well, it's probably easier but I'm pretty sure an ME7 ECU could be adapted somehow to run a 12V. They use the same 60-2 crank wheel and sensor position
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Ignore him, and yep, I do do my own tuning. Best way to learn :-)
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The problem on the VR is space. Imo the best way to do it is feed the turbo into a positive displacement S/C, like an Eaton. The G60 is way too small for a VR6. You will need seperate throttle for the S/C input and one hell of an efficient intercooler to cool 2 lots of boosted charge air.... Personally I don't think it's worth it. With mordern turbos like the Borg Warner EFR, spool up and power just aren't an issue. 1 air compressor is a damn site more reliable in the long run too!
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Did you grease both sides of the washer as well? I doubt you have anything to worry about tbh.
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Yeah 75lbs is what we normally recommend for the ARPs and then a retorque after 500 miles. One or two usually need a little nip up after this mileage. Yep, the ISV is supposed to have a gap in it when closed. They're all like that. It's a limp home feature. It allows some air into the engine if the ISV fails to open. DBW throttles are the same. Their natural resting position is ~ 7% open.
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Cheers mate! I did wonder about 12Vs and DBW actually. It's possibly unique in this country but I think America got DBW as standard on it's MK4 12V and someone I know in Hong Kong fitted it to his 12V turbo over a year ago. It's a completely different animal to drive now, will take some getting used to! I think I've been maxxing out my injectors since fitting this throttle. Rear bank has peppered pistons and I've melted a plug, twice. Time to fit the 550cc EV14s I think. It's been a remarkably resilient engine to my mucking about actually. I'm lucky I didn't put a hole through a piston!
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Pictures are quite small on here, maybe this is a bit better...
