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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. matth76
    Approx 90deg C is the normal oil temp. Normally takes around 15 mins driving to reach this (slightly longer in colder weather). It may be around 88deg in recent colder weather. In hotter weather low to mid 90's is normal. It can reach 100 if you're doing motorway driving. The main thing to make sure you do is do not take your car over 3000-3500 revs during the 15-20 mins warm up period until it reaches the 90 deg oil temp. If the engine's revved hard all the time when its not properly warmed up the life of the engine (as with any performance car) is dramatically reduced if done regularly
  2. matth76
    All vr's have noisy tappets. It's only noticable on tickover. Just one of those things. Nothing to worry about unless it is really really loud. A good vr specialist like stealth or the phirm will replace your tappets in around 3 hours maybe even less.
  3. matth76
    The plastic wheel arches were on all early '95 or earlier VR's whether Highline or not. All vrs after that lost the plastic wheel arches. I haven't heard of the car you mention. Someone on here may know. Also try edition38.com website forum. Or corrado-forum.net.
  4. matth76
    I've got the milltek "twin-jet" exit exhaust. Looks perfect and looks the same size as the remus one on the pics earlier in this thread. The twin exit milltek really suits the vr in my opinion (any bigger would look silly - believe me I've seen some big twin exit exhausts and it spoils the cars looks). The milltek twin exit tips are about twice the size of the original piddly stock exhaust tips. They are also noticably bigger than audi S3 twin exit exhaust tips. The milltek sound is veeery nice. Quite a few people (in the know) have commented how nice my exhaust sounds. Doesn't drown out
  5. matth76
    In that case sounds like it would be a good value mate. Smoothing the tailgate is a lot of work.
  6. matth76
    Sounds as though the person who spotted you knows nothing about golfs. Depends what she meant by "old school". In my opinion it is def not old school (not yet). Early mk2's could be classed as old school. The interior of my gf's brand new polo looks virtually the same as the interior of the vr and the vr is far far smoother to drive even being 10 yrs older and the mk3 vr (if well looked after) still retains a lot of the modern looks. All golfs are always going to be "simple" in design (exterior and interior) and robust engineering is what makes them so appealing. I would far prefer driving
  7. matth76
    I paid £350 and got both front wings and all bonnet and rear bumper corners all done. I would shop around...or recommend a friend or something as you should be able to get a bit more for your money. Unfortunately it's always expensive but you should be able get more done for £350
  8. matth76
    A custom remap is the same price as a superchip but far far better and will get much more power. As above a chip or remap is good for an early VR 1995 or earlier which has an obd1 ecu. The later vr with an obd2 ecu will get absolutely no power gain whatsoever with either a chip or remap because the ecu is so advanced. An off the shelf chip can actually cause more harm than good!! Take your car to Stealth racing for anything to do with the ecu. A remap is only advised when you start to add cams or more - not ncessary on smaller mods than that. The remap is purely to get the fuelling spot
  9. matth76
    Its a common VR fault for it to pull slightly to the left. It shouldn't be huge though but it is noticable if you take your hands off the wheel.. although the camber of the road will always make it veer slightly to the left too. Nothing to worry about unless it is really bad.
  10. matth76
    Hi mate. You shouldn't need to disconnect or reset the ecu. It will adapt to the new settings automatically without having to disconnect the battery. The obd2 ecu is very advanced! It may be a different story with the earlier obd1 ecu..not sure. Which one do you have?
  11. matth76
    I've had slight "mayo" before but it was only condensation. Quite common. However if you get other symptoms and the mayo then start to worry. One of the main symptoms of possible head gasket failure is the mayo and mysterious coolant loss. If you get coolant loss but can't see any leaks anywhere that is a bad sign. By the way you should only use "semi"-synthetic oil (preferably Quantum Synta Silver). Fully synthetic is too thin - unless you have a very heavily modified VR - i.e with a turbo or charger.
  12. matth76
    Unfortunately Ebay allow people to become members with either a credit card or "proper"company email address (ie not a Hotmail or Yahoo account). This leaves it open to con artists! You can effectively set up many accounts if you own some domain names (which cost hardly anything) and simply have email accounts set up under these domains - therefore the cons don't necessarily own a proper company - they just own the domains - could be worth checking on register.com to find out the ownership details - although many domain name companies (like uk2.net) have stopped giving out the full "whois" o
  13. matth76
    I've heard a lot of problems are associated with "off the shelf" chips like Superchips. For the same price Stealth do a full custom remap. A remap will always get more power and be suited directly to your own car and any mods than a chip. Plus you also get a rolling road session all included to make sure everything is running ok and to give you your power figures before and after. Stealth racing is by far the recommended choice amongst 99% of members on here in the UK when it comes to the vr6 ecu. Vince who owns Stealth used to work on VW cup cars - definitely knows his stuff. What age is
  14. matth76
    As above what is the standard speed rating to get when getting new tyres? V allows up to 240 km/h (149mph) and there is also W speed rating which allows up to 270km/h (168mph). Cheers for any help.
  15. matth76
    You should really have 40 profile instead of 45. 45 will increase the overall rolling radius making your gearing and speedo slightly out of sync.. so you think you are going 40mph for example when in fact you are going 45 etc. You may also experience scrubbing of the tyres on the wheel arches. I suspect it should be ok on standard ride height though. Should look cool when you get the height lowered and the 40 profile on. Just take it easy near the speed cameras! I would stick with 205 width. 195 is smaller than standard. I tried 195 width tyres on my standard 15" wheels and experience
  16. matth76

    Dbilas

    matth76 replied to gjm's topic in Engine Tuning

    Hi Graham. Don't know much about Dbilas but I have heard they are good quality. I personally have Eurospec 268 cams which are exact copies of Shricks but a fair bit cheaper. Both Shrick and Eurospec are very good for the VR6 as they give even power increase throughout the rev range... as opposed to cheaper cams that only give power high up the rev range, losing power lower down. The person who will know the answer about Dbilas is Vince at Stealth Racing. He used to work with professional VW Cup cars and is one of the best in the business re VW tuning.
  17. matth76
    xyber.. £185...seems a tad expensive...especially from Ebay which is supposed to be cheaper. I got mine for £160. I agree with you about the tunnel! Even in fourth gear floor it and it sounds amazing. You can easily hear it with the windows closed and radio blaring. But can be equally subtle and just a small hint that you have something under the bonnet when driving around at low revs. You can cruise at 70 easily - if you don't floor it it is hardly noticable. But floor it and you know it's there and really goes well with the v6 sound.. without drowing it out like some filters can.
  18. matth76

    power!!!

    matth76 replied to dirtydave's topic in Engine Tuning

    Totally true. Some of the range are 4wd - the turbo and carrera 4... the rest are rwd. My boss at work as a Carrera 2 ..very nice car. I actually had a chance to drive it today... only round the car park though! The chains need to be replaced as well as the tensioners as they are prone to stretching and do occasionally snap. Just replacing the tensioners would be asking for trouble. Someone on here had a chain snap.. end of engine there and then.
  19. matth76
    Totally normal. Powerful big engined cars tend to do this more as they heat up much more than bog standard cars. It will always happen when the engine is cold and especially when its cold outside. Just don't rev the car over 3k revs for around 15mins until the car reaches normal operating oil temp (which you can see on your trip computer - 88-90deg is the temp to reach).... again this is a normal thing to do with any sports car.
  20. matth76
    Anything related to the ECU take it to Stealth. They very experienced and certainly better than most main dealers! If you are in the midlands then they are not too far from you. I doubt you need a whole new ecu! sounds like they are giving a poor diagnosis. Could simply be that your timing is out slightly. Replacing the ecu will not fix this! Get it to stealth mate.
  21. matth76
    Get the garage who fitted it to replace it properly this time and for free!!! They shouldn't charge you a penny.
  22. matth76
    Normal mate. I have found on all my previous cars if you press the fuel trigger at full blast that it will think it is full. Same on my gf's brand new polo. Just over sensitive fuel pumps.
  23. matth76

    power!!!

    matth76 replied to dirtydave's topic in Engine Tuning

    I agree. NS Racing do second hand chargers for around the £1k mark (for a ZR2, don't get the earlier ZR1 as they have belt problems), bear in mind you will need a £300 remap at Stealth following this to get it all complete. Very good bargain in my opinion. Whereas you're looking at £2.5k - £3k min to get a brand new set up.
  24. matth76
    Fit yours patpong... you'll love the sound when you open it up. It is far more efficient than drilling holes and fitting a panel filter. It has much more surface area and drilling holes will just allow heatsoak to take place.. not a good thing. The bmc has its own heat shielding and if pointed directly to the gap between the headlight and nearside panel will get plent of cold air. To get even more cold air you can fit the cold air feed but this involves moving the carbon cannistor which can be a bit of a hassle as its very tight to get to all the nuts and bolts etc. I have had my bmc for a
  25. matth76
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