matth76
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Everything posted by matth76
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Mine's a late 1997 model and doesn't have one. I would assume if any did have it it was an extra option and would alarm as soon as you hit the red zone. Isn't good for the engine running into the red too often. After I was nearly at the limit only a couple of times my car suffered about 5-10bhp loss on Stealth's rollers until it had several tank fulls of some expensive but powerful fuel injector cleaner (not Halfords stuff - this is the proper stuff and car pulled far harder after using this). My car always runs well when I've just filled up. When I am approaching the red zone it's always
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Can you have the 3.6 final drive fitted without the expensive diff or is it advisable to get both? When my gearbox was out of my car when my chains were done I initially asked if they could fit a 3.6 final drive. However they said it would be ultra expensive and would need a quaif diff or peloquin diff at same time (no point otherwise - said it couldn't be fitted on its own) - I'd be looking at £2k in total for everything! Soon went off that idea. Has anyone ever fitted a 3.6 final drive without fitting an uprated diff? How did your car handle.
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You've been waiting for one piston since Feb?? Why didn't they simply send an extra piston when the garage received only 5?? Should be a simple job. What supplier is your garage using... sounds like the supplier is pretty useless if it takes months to ship out one item. Hope you get it sorted soon mate.
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Hi I have an intermittent problem where sometimes I will try to start my car and it just won't turn over. Battery is brand new and has plenty of charge as all the lights work etc. My starter motor should be ok as it is only a year to 18mths old. My old battery did run flat and was left in a garage for a couple of weeks just sitting there - not sure if this has caused a problem with my immobilizer. Sometimes it will start fine after a couple of seconds but there is always a small delay of absolutely nothing- no turning over nothing. It should turn over straight away but it doesn't. Could this
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Cheers guys for your help.
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Hi I need to get a new battery for my car ...I need one that is heavy duty and a very good one. I'm going to try Halfords. Is there a particular type I need to get? How much am I looking at to buy one? I've only had it sitting doing nothing for two to three weeks and it has gone flat in just that space of time. I haven't been able to drive the car much as it has a smashed rear driver wheel arch (long story which I won't go into). Going to need to get it to a garage next week to get it hopefully repaired next week. However the car just won't turn over...very occasionally it will. Basically
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Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I get on. One way or another I'll get my VR back ...one day!
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15.6 sec 1/4 mile Golf VR6 12v...list your quarter mile times here for fun
matth76 replied to Wush's topic in General Chat
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Yeah that could be the problem right there mate.. synta gold is fully sythetic oil which is far too thin for the vr. Quantum Synta Silver is semi synthetic and is the stuff to use. Let us know if that sorts it out.
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Hi A little while ago my car was damaged by another driver reversing out of a drive - here's my post of the incident: http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?175188 Anyway my rear wheel arch was damaged basically requiring a complete rear quarter panel. A friend of mine who is a bodyshop repair guy who owns his own company gave me an estimate of around £1000 all in to fix. However I decided to go through the insurance as the other driver didn't want to pay that amount of cash, and I thought it better to do this to prevent the risk of the other driver not paying, if it wa
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Who told you that Jezmoz? A vr shouldn't be smokey at all.
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Shrick or Eurospec are very good... "Cat" 262 cams are also supposed to be very good according to the vwvortex forum. All these makes of cam provide a good even power increase throughout the rev range, as opposed to just shifting power higher up the rev range and making you lose some low down torque which a lot of cheaper makes do. I would get Shrick if you can afford them or Eurospec. I believe stealth supply both at quite a good rate. Not heard of the autotech ones you mention though
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Remap will be better than a chip. Good luck with it all. Stealth or The Phirm should be able to point you in the right direction for a manifold and downpipe suitable for your conversion... Sounds like you're have a f***ing time mate
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That advert doesn't mention anything about service history...could be ominous (may have forgotten to mention it even though it is the most important thing to put in advert!). Try to look for one with a full service history (and avoid the excuse that some owners give saying they have serviced it themselves.. unless you can trust them walk away,,, otherwise you will be paying a lot of bills to fix it in the long run), especially now they are at least 10 yrs old. As mentioned above as long as they are well looked after with a full regular service history (every 10k miles or 12 mths, which ever
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As said already, no difference in the highline engine to non-highline. A highline vr6 only means it has extra "cosmetic" interior trim options. Nothing different under the bonnet ...same power etc. All vr's (highline and non-highline) from mid 1995 are OBD2 meaning different ecu as mentioned above and a couple of other changes and a nice 10bhp extra on average. Good luck with your conversion... let us know how you get on.
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Mine pops a bit when I go down a gear or sometimes let of the gas pedal. It's just unburnt fuel. Mine does it because I have 268 cams and it pretty normal for this. However if your vr is standard it shouldn't really have much unburnt fuel. Do you know the car's history? Has it got any kind of remap or chip? I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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I replied to your other (duplicate) post http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?175562 Here's what I wrote: Being written off for just the two doors!? Bad news mate. Surely your car is worth a bit more than £1200. They should give you the value of what it is worth in good condition. That mileage is well below average for a 14 yr old car (avg is 12k miles a year and you're looking at 168k miles for a 14yr old - your's is well below this). Blo*dy 4x4's. I know how you feel. Only two weeks ago my car's rear wheel arch got rammed by some idiot reversing his 4x4 pickup... r
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Being written off for just the two doors!? Bad news mate. Surely your car is worth a bit more than £1200. They should give you the value of what it is worth in good condition. That mileage is well below average for a 14 yr old car. Blo*dy 4x4's. I know how you feel. Only two weeks ago my car's rear wheel arch got rammed by some idiot reversing his 4x4 pickup... reversing out of a driveway too! They should ban these vehicles unless they live on farms and actually use them for what they are. I'm glad they are raising the taxes on these vehicles. They should do the same for people carrier
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I agree with most of the above...I think the eyebrows look tacky and just like bits of stuck on extra bits. Personally not a fan of them at all... just my own opinion though. Go with whatever you prefer though.
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Mine only made about one mpg less. Main thing is to get a full remap at Stealth after fitting the cams.
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Never had a problem with my 268 cams. I also have a high flow cat and my emissions were similar to Craggsy about 15 to 20 times lower than the max limit. Just make sure you get a good remap after the cams are fitted to get the fuelling spot on.
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Service including timing chain check.....
matth76 replied to AndyVRSexy's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Definitely take it to Stealth mate. They are less than an hour from you...well worth the trip. I would stay away from main dealers unless you have cash to burn. I took my vr to my local vw main dealer when I first got it and my car was running really poorly after wards - turned out every single one of my 6 plugs weren't fully tightened. A full service at my main dealer cost £250 - 300ish! Therefore Stealth would be somewhat cheaper. Best bet is to ring them - I'd expect £150-£200 depending on what they do.Stealth are one of the best in the UK when it comes to the vr engine. -
Some people just don't know how to look after cars. Sorry to hear your bad news. I hope you negotiated the price down mate. From what you say I wouldn't have paid more than £2k tops for it. It shouldn't have any dents/dinks in it if it's been looked after. I'd get them treated asap as rust could develop and that is more money. Vibra technics do engine mounts. Does it have a full service history?