
matth76
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Everything posted by matth76
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Simple Toph - get the owner to fix the problem then say you will come back and look at it. That way if he says it is relatively cheap to fix he won't mind fixing it! It should be fit for use if he's selling it. There are plenty of other VR's out there so don't be persuaded to go for this one. Leads and plugs would be my first port of call but it could also be the coilpack which can be expensive or even worse it could be the timing slightly out which is much more expensive. Do you know if the chains have been done on it? Quite often when the chains are done garages can put the chains/cams
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Quantum Synta Silver 10w 40 which is semi synthetic. Definitely don't use fully synthetic. I find my car uses far less oil now it uses Synta Silver.
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what temp should your oil temp gauge be at??
matth76 replied to Chiefwiggum29's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
It shouldn't be over 100 if driving normally. It should be 90-98 if driving normally. If it is a hot sunny day and you're doing motorway driving it can creep up to 100 but much more than this is rare. Different types of oil can cause differences in temp. I use Quantum Synta Silver in 10w40 (its the semi synthetic stuff - DONT put fully synthetic in) and now my car uses hardly any oil at all and the temp stays in the 90's all the time. When I used to use other oil I found my car would use up loads of oil. Try changing the oil and see if that gets the temp down. Just make sure the revs are -
A friend of mine has a clio williams and is lightly tuned. My car still leaves it dead. Older cars even obd1's will quite often run at the very least 180bhp. This is proven on many a rolling road outing. Obd2 cars on average have at least 185-190bhp. These are the words of Stealth Racing who are the foremost tuner in the UK when it comes to the ecu and rolling road tuning. The person who owns them used to do engineering on VW cup cars and certainly knows his stuff. The quoted factory figure of 174 is very conservative but as always the bhp will always vary from every brand new car. I hav
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The boss of VW himself said a while back he was sick of people asking when / will then R36 golf be made.. Quite simply it won't he said. It isn't feasible.. as said above the engine bay is too small for everything to fit. I can't see why they wouldn't fit a manual only like the mk4 r32, which is very popular in the states. The latest audi RS4 comes as standard with a manual. The manual is the real driver's option. Again, this is also very popular with the states.
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Or try Stealth Racing... just down the road from you and very good prices... and one of the best in the uk. Main symptom is unexplained loss in coolant. Lots of white gunge under the oil cap. Possibly smoke from your exhaust... I think its a particular colour smoke. You're right...a normal main dealer will charge close to £3k!!!! Whereas a specialist like Stealth or The Phirm will get it all done for far less than a third of that. If you want your chains done that is unfortunately a gearbox out job and will cost a fair bit on top.
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Odd that your water temp stays normal. However I would check if your thermostat is 100% ok as it can stick. It is very high but still within safe limits. But its not the normal temp at all. I'd drive it down to Stealth Racing.. you're not far at all. Will be worth the trip and they will def fix your problem ...one of the best in the uk for the vr and very good prices too. I'd try not to drive it till then (could do damage if something is wrong costing a lot more money)... or if you really have to keep it below 3k revs. Give Vince a call at Stealth when you book it in and explain the symp
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The later VR's (which have a better ecu) do have around 185bhp as opposed to the earlier VR's (1995 or earlier) which have 174bhp. Petrol isn't really an issue if you drive normally (i.e keep the revs below 4k). I get 32mpg. £40ish to fill it up on Tesco 99 ron will get a full tank and about 300miles if not slightly more. Although I try not to let it get into the red (as that isn't good for any engine) so I could in fact get 30 more miles to a tank. I'm not light footed either but I drive it normally during the week to work etc and have fun with it at the weekend when I can. Slow town t
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FP3 I totally agree - a manual makes you feel much more involved. That's why Audi have it as standard in their RS4. Whereas it's more of a luxury item and put in the "grand tourers" - hence the bigger RS6 (grand tourer) has an auto-tiptronic as standard and no manual available (because it is aimed at less "hardcore/sporty" drivers). Alot of the latest manuals (including the R32) have extremely short throws making them very quick to change gear. Personally I would always stick with a manual - you have more control over the revs etc. Yes a tiptronic/dsg will get faster changes (when they wor
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Original 15 inch BBS Alloys
matth76 replied to Rob.S's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
How come your vr doesn't have them? -
Golf VR6 Pulling to the left
matth76 replied to JohnP's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
My car always used to pull very slightly to the left too (more than it should with the camber in the road). My front two tyres were different to my back tyres. I recently had 4 new BF Goodrich G-Force Profilers fitted and now the car handles like a dream and I was pretty surprised to find my car went in a straight line if I took my hands off the steering wheel! When I first bought the car I did originally have the same tyres on each wheel (Continentals) and the car still veered a bit to the left. So I can only assume it is the BFG "make" of tyres that have made the difference. Try this ma -
Cheap suspension set up on my Vr any ideas...
matth76 replied to bulk66's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
I've got GMAX too and they advertise a drop of 35mm. It's more like 40-45mm and it looks perfect (how it should have been from the factory) but not too low to be impractical. Should be good quality too as they're gas shocks as opposed to the common oil based shocks. Plus 3 yr guarantee so good value in my opinion. -
Speak to The Phirm. They have recently turboed their show vr - I believe they sourced EIP parts but they will answer all your questions and best places / prices of parts etc. The main issue is the manifold with the vr being rhd.
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Seems like quite a tough on. I have managed to find out that the R32 can go from 30-50mph in 3rd gear in just 2.9 secs. Can't really compare it to the stats above as it says "through the gears" for the above cars as opposed to just one gear. Also got a 50-70mph stat for the R32 in 5th gear at 6 secs dead. Haven't found the same stat for 3rd gear though.
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Anyone have same stats for the mk4 golf R32?
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The R32 has one. Easy to remove (apparently) but not sure how easy to install.
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The obd2 vr (which you will have) is a very hard car to get more power from as its already in a high state of tune (with approx 185-190 standard which many don't realise). An exhaust and free flowing air filter will liberate about 5bhp in total. Depends on what power you want and budget you have really. If I was going to mod my car from scratch again I would have gone straight for 268 cams and a remap and that's all unless I had more money. The cams and remap will give you about 10-15bhp straight away (you must get the remap done afterwards though!). Downside is the cost - second hand cam
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Nice info. Where did you get the VR6 stats you quote? Is this your own car's figures? I'm surprised about the Leon and mk5 golf gti. I would have thought a lightly modded vr (with 190-200bhp) would be a tad quicker. I've always found my vr to be slightly quicker through the gears whenever I have had one decide to "race" me. I found my vr to be pretty even with a ctr until higher speed where my vr started to open up a fairly sizable gap (much to the annoyance of the ctr owner!). Don't know much about the new mazda 3... seem to remember it was on top gear recently ...doesn't have a big bh
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While we're on the subject of highlines... I know the very early highlines had the obd1 ecu however did they ever have the plastic wheel arches too (like all early vr's up to 1995)?
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As you have an earlier obd1 vr your car will benefit from a remap. Get a full custom remap from Stealth Racing (best in the business and recommended by most on here) instead of going for an "off the shelf" superchip (which is the same price as Stealths remap too). Later OBD2 vr's don't benefit from a chip/remap unless they have heavy mods, Your OBD1 vr will benefit though as it has a slightly different ecu. You would benefit from a relatively cheap mod too to your throttle body - I think the butterfly is enlarged. Get a free flowing exhaust and air filter (bmc is good as it is protected fr
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need new engine! advice please
matth76 replied to rossmilford19's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
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Does it have 268 performance cams fitted? These can cause there to be a slight "pause" in power in low revs and then all power surges in around 2k revs.
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mk2 vr6 engine loosing power and very hot
matth76 replied to balboa's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I doubt its as bad as mentioned above! Likely cause is faulty/sticking thermostat (get this all replaced to be safe - relatively cheap to get done) or faulty fans. Best bet is to drive it easily (or ideally not at all) until fixed as if there is a problem you can do damage driving it around. How's the coolant level...have you lost any? What about the oil temp..did this rise too or stay normal? I would expect the oil temp to rise slightly if the water temp went up. Get it checked out asap mate. My thermostat went on my vr...water temp hit max and my oil temp hit 118! Thankfully I stoppe