Bigjobbo
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Everything posted by Bigjobbo
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I've driven some cars that go like stink, and as standard, i think the VR is quick off the mark as long as you can get traction.
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If there is no other immobiliser, it has to be the reader coil or key transponder. I've had a few of these on vauxhalls, and i just change the transponder chip. How come VW dont know? Who the hell helps us when they dont know?????????????
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What about none insurance job? any ideas?
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25k!!!!! blimey. you need to put in some more details, year, model, spec, condition etc. blimey 25k!!
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Has anybody got a price on a VW one? I desperately need one before the summer. Thanks
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Sounds like he wants you to come back! Can't knock him for spotting all of it though.I'l try some help, here goes: 1.Where is it? Is it easy to get to? Easily patched up. 2.service (also could be no.14 related) why weren't they changed??? 3.Dont mess with brakes, get a second opinion. If in doubt, change them. 4.Can be done later, depending on severity of play. Dont leave it too long though. 5.Give them a rub with some 400, or lightly with a wire brush, check if the rust is corroding into the pipe. See 3. 6.See above and 3 7.VAG-COM? If it is rear, and your no good with the tools then leave it
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24 with 2 nippers
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As we're on the subject, i'd like to point out what a crap setup the pedal box arrangement is on a mk3, and wouldn't wish any problems with that area,on anyone. They're shite.
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It's around that mark yes, and it disappears either side of 2k. I'm doing the chains soon, because it needs a clutch, so i'l let you know, if you can hang on till then.
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Good advise about the cheap oil and running it in I'd get a clean drip tray so you can re-load any oil dropped because the drain plugs are a bit of a git.
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I reckon i've got the same noise on mine. You really have to divide all the noises to get it, but it's there. I'm a mechanic and i've put it down to slight wear in the chains, and i'm not worried. My engine has done 99k. Good luck
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you could give REMIT a call and see if they will share their information on which courses are available, and where. I think most of the paint and body courses are branched under motor vehicle service and repair. Good luck
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Finally i got it, aint stopped trying! http://totebo.com/mko.php?c=qrosqBoistoEqtorFBoUBopBsosUqEoIONbSmouuqs
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Been looking for a website like that for ages, cheers. Maestro!!! like a bloody train!!
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I wouldn't take the chance. Set it at the height you want and then get it tracked. If its going on a ramp to get tracked, then it should be a flat bed no? The tracking gauges i use are pre-historic, and wont do a wheel over 16", and definately wont fit onto the tyre if its slammed. At my previous employer though, we used a £30k piece of kit, that used a flat bed ramp, and laser return gauges that clamped to the outer edge of the wheel rim, thus doing a way with any problems regarding rim size and trim height. Lowering the car, will adjust the camber due to load positioning and bushes etc. My
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If you shake the exhaust, does it hit the rear beam, or floor etc? It seems like the knock disappears once it has dried off, which makes me think it maybe getting to a rubber mount of some sort, and causing the knock. Good luck
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I agree. stub axle, hub and bearing first. Its cheaper!
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It could be bloody anything. If it is coming from inside the block, i wouldn't even drive it, as the bill could be made a lot bigger. good luck.
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Important: Do you smoke cannabis? Please read this
Bigjobbo replied to VR6Pete's topic in General Chat
I think i may have encountered some of this stuff, and to further the warning, it looks and smells like seriously good shit. It is sold wet which makes it sticky, and looks like it has lots of crystals. I now have packed in all forms of smoking (day 4) by the way. -
When you do the caliper bolts, use a hex socket, not a multi-point. I haven't done a mk3 rear setup. If i knew which set up it was, i could tell you.
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I'm at a body shop in saltney at the mo, Allan Jenkins. Only there while its good for me, get to use all facilities when i want. We sometimes use dane for re-programming etc, you on the floor? or in the office. Do you know jason? 20 questions!! sorry. Do you own that silver 32?
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Is it definately the temp sender switch you changed?? What about the fan switch? Does the fan come in? The stat could be the cause, but once your oil temp hits 90, your coolant would still be running at about 70 with the stat stuck open, so this would still op the gauge. To check the wiring, bridge test it. A mech would check that circuit first. Good luck
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get someone sitting in the car with the ignition on, take the plug off the switch and bridge the contacts in pairs. When you bridge the right two the gauge will shoot up, that cancels out your fuse, and points to the switch. Unlikely to be the gauge itself.
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have you checked the fuse?? Have you checked the "new" switch??
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I'd charge around 30-40 notes a wheel depending on how they come off. I got charged 50 when i couldn't be arsed doing it myself, 12 mnths ago.