Bigjobbo
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Everything posted by Bigjobbo
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Worn bloody stubs!!! I forget sometimes that we're working with 100k plus relics. I'l keep that in mind, i'm putting new bearings on next week, i'l check me stubs while i'm there. Thank you PhatVR6.
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Adjustment being how you tighten the hub nut and where it's final position is when fit the locking ring and put the split pin through. I wind it up tight, not too tight, then back it right off, and then wind it in just until it's nipped up and then lock it up. Who fitted the new bearings?
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Hub is just the universal word for a wheel mount in this case. The circular collar or flange thats sits snugly inside the wheel to centralise it. In some cases it's a seperate disc bolted to a hub, but as this is a stub axle set-up, you are correct in saying the hub is intergrated into the disc. Has the wheel bearing play been adjusted correctly?
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A spacer ring that sits around the hub where the wheel mounts, stops movement and vibration in the wheel when upgrading to a larger wheel hub size. Doesn't sound like this to me, if the wheel is tight the nut's keep the wheel central. It sounds like bearing or bush to me.
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I've had a decent look at mine as the little c clip came off the end of the clutch pedal side. Would definately recommend taking out the drivers seat. Pedal slides off a bush when the clip is removed, clip was a twat to get back on the pivot pin, a triple jointed hand moment i think. I did do it with the drivers seat in though. As regards to a white clip thing flying off, that sounds alot like the mounting bush. Good luck
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If it's a B6, it's a 4.2 V8 344ps. I wish i had a charger. :-(
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VR running 300ps would mince a standard S4. Power to weight is much better. The S4 weighs in at a hefty 1660kg with its 344ps, and your 1280kg VR and it's projected 300ps. Same principal with the R32 really, bags of power but too damn heavy to compete with an older model with the same power, due to increased safety standards. Only problem would be traction off the line. Mince that fool!
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Mint. some good two step by some large people.
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if you want a cheaper way, take the gate off, strip it down, and give it to someone like thomas2012, paint materials plus arse pocket for a pro job. i've done it on a few occasions with different panels and it's alot cheaper. good luck.
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There's a couple of good threads on here i used as a reference a few weeks ago. I let the front and gearbox mount go, and it was still a touch tight. Just be carefull of the lambda sensor on the top of the exhaust when jacking.
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N/S CV joint? i hope it's not your diff.
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door not shutting properly after respray
Bigjobbo replied to fritzenberg's topic in Bodywork and Styling
5mm is shocking! Is the door actually closing? Catch could possibly be too far in, and the door mechanism aint closing over. -
Never driven an OBD2 car before, also never driven one that has coilies. Got a theory on this annoying problem i would like to put to you clever souls. It's a whistle/ringing, basically, when i'm giving it beans, that kicks in at around 3500, and is continuous throughout the range. It's coming from the nsf area. Doesn't seem to do it in first gear, which is devestating to my theory. :S Has anyone had a problem with an FK setup, that vibrates a spring when the weight transfers to the rear under power. It really sounds like a ringing sound. Any advice would help because it's stopping me from d
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Defo 36mm got mine on the ramp just done my water pump and broke my rocker cover breather. :-(
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engine mounts guide/walkthrough
Bigjobbo replied to lowvr's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Hi mate, i'm a mech, and i would drop the subframe to do the rear two with an engine support on top. The rear two can be a right git to line up. It's possible to do them on a jack, but it will take you twice as long, and the height you have to lift the engine just means you will have disconnect more to avoid damage. Chances are your CAT bolts will be seized unless it's been done recently, which means you restricted to how high you can lift. I would recommend a garage. Hope this helps. -
My obd1 is a 36mm.
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She doing here
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Is the water pump on my 94 2.8, auxilary belt driven, and does it sit just below the tensioner pulley? If so, mines fooked. The bearings have gone, so it's squeeking, grinding it's tit's off. Even saw the pulley have a bit of a wobble. Not losing water yet, but it does sound like it's about fail. Will it get me 4 miles to work? and how much for a genuine pump and belt? Was gonna get brakes and suspension this month, and it's pay day. How typical, and annoying!!!! Cheers.
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Mine does it when it's hot... sometimes. It's very common. I've queried this on several occasions and been told to put up with the noise and wait until it stops pumping fuel instead.
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because they were
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large smelly spotty
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people, so i
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I could agree with you but how the hell do i confirm either of those, if it only does it when i'm rippin tarmac??
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Evenin' all, been a greedy blighter and bought another VR. I now got an OBD1 and 2. Will get some pics of the little beaut's as soon as i've figured out how to do it again. Got a lil' problem with the OBD2 which i've had since yesterday. It whistle/screeches under load, above 2500 rpm and is dependent on throttle position. It can be at 4500 rpm but at 1/4 throttle and there will be no noise but as soon as i give 50%+ gas it will whistle its nuts off. I immediately thought throttle body, butterlfly or such like. Just wondering if anyone had encountered this problem before i start pullin bits o
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The only think that should be coming out the rad is coolant, unless you have an auto box? Check the the PAS pipe at the front, they like a good rot. Runs along the front x member just behind the bumper.