FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Nice one Jules. The iridium plugs are fine for Schrick use as it extends the service interval. They don't give you any more power or make the engine run any differently, they just last longer. In fact, irdidiums are perfect for Supercharger use as normal plugs can suffer from spark blow-out when you really gun it. When I had my MK2 16V Turbo, I *had* to use iridiums or platinums otherwise the turbo would literally blow the spark out when on boost! I used Audi S3 plugs. [ Edited Fri Jun 11 2004, 06:42PM ]
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Yep the stat housing is a classic weakness. It's plastic and warps. Also, the main water pump will spew coolant out if the internal seal blows. So you're looking for leaks at the pulley end and the gearbox end. The auxillary pump is another classic, it's behind the coilpack. Another weak spot is the heat exchanger hose. That's bolted to the front of the block. I won't even go there with a blown head gasket as you would definitely know about that. K [ Edited Fri Jun 11 2004, 06:37PM ]
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No VAG-COM won't tell you the ECU is in limp wristed mode. The cam sensor is a classic failure on the VR. When I bought my Corrado, I though it was mega slow compared to my BMW 325i, but a quick dyno at Stealth revealed the Cam sensor was out and it produced 172bhp! Gutted! He stuck a new sensor in and reset the ECU.....then we got 200 brake on the nail with 193lb/ft. The engine was standard then. If you feel your VR is somewhat lacking, check it on VAG-COM for a dead cam sensor because as I say, the limp mode loses you 30 ponies!! That's the main sensor that triggers limp mode. Dead MAFs
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Not sure about the red mate... Persevere with it. I bought my Corrado VR with 73K on it. Full dealer history etc etc and I had 20,000 sublime miles from it, then it started going pear shaped. Nothing drastic, just the odd running issue here and there. It's never broken down, burnt oil, lost fluids or anything. It's just my own fastidiousness that has ended up with me spending £5000 on it in 18 months. Yeah the chains....well, not much we can do about that cause VW didn't have the forethought to use solid tensioners, but they learned that mistake with the MK4. Anyway, keep it going, you'l
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You shoudn't pull hot leads. It damages the rubber seal inside the metal shroud. I've seen the innards ripped out a HT lead when somone yanked a lead out of a hot engine. Not saying that will definitely happen, but it's a known hazard, especially with cheaper leads.
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The VR6 does indeed have a 'limp' mode. It will retard the igntion and increase fuelling if it's not happy with the sensors' signals, or lack there of. This will happen if the cam position sensor dies and you will lose 30bhp. K [ Edited Thu Jun 10 2004, 09:23PM ]
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Yeah they do, quite a bit actually. The span of chain between the cam wheels should be tight. Mine had nearly a cm of slack at 93K! Needless to say the engine drives like new with new ones. If the VR had a cambelt, it wouldn't fit in the Golf/Corrado engine bay. It would add at least 50mm width. The reason for the chains is compactness and Audi had to fit chains to the 4.2 V8 to get it in the A4!
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Find a garage that can do a leakdown test as that will tell you if the gas leak is at the head or block end, or both if you're really unlucky.
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I did a bit of research into this before buying mine. It seemed the NGKs were the preferred choice. Denso seemed exaggerate their claims somewhat. The guy at Spark Plugs is top notch. Got mine through the post next day. K
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On my OBD1 NAFF, I use cotton buds with Isopropynol too. Just very gently wipe the platinum wires to remove the crud. These type of MAF have a cleaning cycle that's supposed to clean the wires by heating them to 1000 degrees C for a split second. Not sure how well it works though, it probably just bakes the K&N oil onto the wires even more! Symptoms of a dead NAFF include:- poor throttle response, hesitancy, very bad idle, poor mpg and a general lack of urge. K
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If I'm not listening out for nasty engine noises, I tend to listen to Groove Armada, Moby, various house and Garage, some chill out stuff (needed for todays busy roads!) and I'm going through a bit of a Hardcore/Rave renaissance at the moment too. [ Edited Thu Jun 10 2004, 08:55PM ]
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Can't you get ebay to email you with reminders or something? Sorry, I know diddly squat about eBay!
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I did quite well out of eBay the other day. My first ever auction and I won a brand new VW steering rack for £150. I was the only bidder, which was strange as they cost £390+VAT from the dealer..... and that's an exhange price for a recon job! But yeah, agreed on eBay....it's open to too much abuse. K
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The metal ones are superb. I've got the hazet one, just a shame I only get to use it once a year now, LOL! The problem with the plastic one is they're vague when pressing the leads home. I like to hear/feel the positive click as the stainless ball bearing in the Lead end clicks home on the plugs's ferrule. You don't get that with the plastic one and it's too short and useless if you've got sweaty hands!
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And www.vag-com.co.uk
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The VR6 is also sequentially injected.
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My mate's P1 doesn't understeer half as much as my other mate's WRX. The WRX is very softly sprung as standard so beefing up the suspension will help and also dialling in a bit more negative camber at the front. You also have to know how to drive them to extract the best from them. I'm no expert but some Subaru drivers can't drive for toffee. Yeah I'm sure the R32 is faster than a Scoob. Suppose I should have said no FWD VWs with open diffs are quicker than a scoob point-to-point! Even the RS Focus is quicker than a Scoob on a circuit. As mentioned already, the Evo is the best 4x4 road
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If my mate's Leon Cupra R consumption is anything to go buy, I'd have to agree with you there!
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[moved] want s3 disks on your vr?
FishWick replied to just2zang's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Nice trick. Using the extra leverage of the 312 discs with the existing VR calipers. A cost effective upgrade! I would think 288 setup calipers would be better as they have 30% more pad area? K -
Yep second the suggestion of taking it to Stealth. It's very easy to get the cam timing a tooth out upon reassembly, so you really need to be hot on timing to even contemplate doing this DIY. As a personal recommendation, I would go with the MK4 VR6 upper tensioner pad and bolt. The pad is solid polymer and the bolt is sprung loaded *and* hydraulically tensioned. This ensures there is always tension on the pad, which was a weakness of the old SACHS hydraulic only bolts when the piston seals let go. MK4 pad - 021 109 509E - £6.50 MK4 tensioner - 021 109 507B - About £20 I think. Fit these an
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Yep tis easy. You can't miss 23 as it's the thickest wire in the loom at the far right of the plug. 22 is almost directly underneath it. Cut the tie wrap off the rubber boot and slide it back out of the way. Cut away a portion of each wires sheathing as close to the plug pin as possible, being careful not to chop through the wire strands. Wrap the schrick wires around the exposed ECU wires and bind with solder. Insulate and replace the boot and you're done! You can earth the schrick controller under the 10mm nut on the ECU cage or anything else in the vicinity. K
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I agree. The difference they bring about isn't massive but for some reason, it works very well on the 2.9 lump, along with a matched AMD remap. I dunno, maybe the extra 80 odd cc needs more air? The car I liberated the TB and AMD ECU from (Corrado) produced 215bhp and 224ft/lbs. If mine is anywhere near that on our forthcoming Stealth rolling road day, I'll be well chuffed.
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NEVER take a VR6 equipped VW to a dealer unless you know the mechanics have intimate knowledge of this engine. It's not a complicated engine at all but for some reason the dealers are intimidated by it. Whenever I take the Corrado in, they chuckle to themselves. Well they can laugh it up but I have the last laugh because I know the engine better than they do, and armed with the likes of Stealth Racing and my own aptitude, they can stick their prices up their backsides.
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Have you checked the boot light is switching off? I know on the Corrado it's a common thing for the light to stay on as the microswitch inside the latch jams on. If you're getting clicking from the dash when starting, that's the ECU relay not getting enough current. Always a sign of a dying battery. Go to Vauxhall and get a big diesel spec battery and be done with it. Why Vauxhall? Because they're made by AC Delco, arguably the best battery money can buy, other than Odyessey dry cells. I've got a 15 year old AC delco battery and the diagnositic indicator is still green, indicating good he
