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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    I took my Schricks out last night and put the standard cams back in. All went swimmingly....engine at TDC, leading edge of the chain on the front sprocket tight, horizontal cut outs on the cam lined up correctly (using VAG tool) etc. I was happy everything was as it should be. It was getting late so I forgot to flip the crank round a turn and double check the timing was still OK, and just bundled the top end back together again and started her up. She caught instantly and settled to a smooth idle. Jolly good I thought. Drove off....feels nice and torquey...got to 4000 rpm and nothing! Just
  2. FishWick
    I thought retro fitting airbags was illegal as the saftey cannot be guaranteed? You also need the Airbag ECU and impact sensors....it's a lot of hassle.
  3. FishWick
    If you don't want a harsh ride, you'd be happier with H&R's springs.
  4. FishWick
    Were the plug electrodes soaked with oil or the plug threads? If it's the electrodes then yeah, your engine is burning it. If it's on the threads and the electrodes are dry, then oil has dripped down into the plug recesses...prolly a leaking rocker gasket.
  5. FishWick
    25+ brake is pure fantasy, especially from an Ashley, they are dire. If you want a proper header, look no further than the Supersprint one. Only snag is it's bloody expensive, about £600 last time I enquired. I *think* the runners are unequal length, so if you've got a VGI fitted on the inlet, you'd also get a tuned exhaust with the SS. Build quality is first class! I would expect to see some midrange torque improvements with a tubular manifold, but nothing like 25+ bhp! 10 perhaps, at the most.
  6. FishWick
    RH ZW1.....or AEZ Parons. Not much else looks as sweet on a MK3 imo.
  7. FishWick
    MK3 GTI/16V/VR6 'plus' suspension cars all use the same rack mate....GSF will have the right one. Avoid the dealer, they are £75+VAT each from there!!
  8. FishWick
    Tricky one 17s..... I've tried 15s, 16s and 17s on my Corrado and to be honest, I find it rides better on the 17s! I was running 215x40x17s originally (nice ride) but got a smidgen of rear arch foulage. I then dropped to 205x40x17s (Avon ZZ3s - great tyres for the money!) and my fears of a crashy ride were unfounded. The thing is, I've got a Neuspeed rear ARB, Koni TAs all round (half turn rear, 1.5 turns front) and H&R springs, entire chassis rebushed, VT mounts and poweflex cross member bushes, new rack, new tie rods, new BJs, new wheel bearings etc etc and that is why it can take the
  9. FishWick
    Mine does that also, well, more of a hunting than misfire actually but at those revs and annoying none the less....it's done it for 2 years and replacing the MAF (3 times), Plugs (4 times), Leads (3 times), coilpack (twice), ECU, Cam sensor (twice), crank sensor, throttle sensor and fuel pump hasn't solved it. The only thing I haven't tried is new injectors. They might be lazy at that particular open time, but are fine at idle and WOT.
  10. FishWick
    VW engines have not required plug gapping since the 70s. Buy the NGKs from the dealer and drop them straight in.
  11. FishWick
    Agreed, the 24V engine is superb. Yes the 1.8T can be made to develop a lot of power but that isn't the be all and end all. Refinement, smoothness and effortless torque are also high on my priority list. It is a common misconception that 1.8Ts are cheap to tune. They are to a point, around 280-300 bhp but there after you have to consider the engine's inhernet weaknesses (it's a 21 year old block) and upgrade the internals. I've seen too many people destroy their 1.8Ts by pumping 1.9bar into standard internals..... To get the 1.8T to a reliable 400+ bhp, you may aswell turbo the VR6.
  12. FishWick
    I doubt it makes much difference to be honest. The sensor is designed to get oil on it, as is the engine speed sensor but how often do you touch the latter? If you unplugged the batteryy before removing the sensor it is more likely to be the effect of resetting the ECU that's brought about the changes. Unless the sensor is covered in engine swarf, then I can't really see a film of oil affecting the sensor's magnetism. Sorry to be a party pooper!
  13. FishWick
    Which ECU displayed faults, the engine or ABS ECU? Some fault codes linger until either reset or if the battery is disconnected. Anything serious would manifest themselves as poor running. Investing in VAG-COM would be a good idea to keep an eye on the ECUs.
  14. FishWick
    OBD2 has a different MAF, ECU, throttle and inlet manifold.
  15. FishWick
    Hi mate, as discussed on the C forum, looks like an oil return from an ex Supercharger conversion.
  16. FishWick
    I see 911s on a daily basis, but only because there's a main dealer 2 mins from where I work! I'd rather see loads of 911s than Subarus. They're still utterly sublime cars regardless of their numbers and are the best daily usable supercar around.
  17. FishWick
    Mark's got an OBD2 MAF according to the pic, so guessing the car is OBD2 compliant too? OBD1 MAF = hot platinum wire. OBD2 MAF = heated film [ Edited Mon Oct 25 2004, 08:33PM ]
  18. FishWick
    I find the 2.8 is better than the 2.9 for low rpm responsiveness and isn't as jerky by far! Could be due to the bigger throttle on the 2.9? Cool, if the MAF seems to be behaving, leave it, but if you ever up the boost, you might want to relocate it ;-) I'm sure Vince can iron out the pinking, he's the master! Can't make it on Sunday, sob sob :-(
  19. FishWick
    I'd say it's more likely to be the old pack of coils than the Berus, which are superb leads. Another good lead are the Blue Igniters. Had mine for 2 years nearly and they've been excellent. OE ends (bremi or Beru) and £70. Bargain.
  20. FishWick
    Anorak, blimey....I thought you'd gone for good! Red Corrado S charged yeah? Nice car that was! I see you can't stay away from Supercharged VR6s then!! How are you finding the Golf? Can't make the RR day unfortunately :-(
  21. FishWick
    I see you have your MAF down-stream of the charger. Shouldn't it be up-stream (ahead of the charger) otherwise the MAF readings will be false? But that aside, pinking is common on Schricked VRs because the engine comes on the cam aswell as being at peak resonance by 3500rpm. I've found using 268s (or 248s if you're SC'd) moves the cam breathing away from the critical 3500 zone, ergo removing the pinking at best, reducing it at worst. The trouble with chipping it out is the reduction in ignition advance and therefore a reduction in torque. It's a tricky one to get right. I'd say if the knock
  22. FishWick
    Unless he's put an 020 box onto a VR6 bell housing, there's no way it's a cable clutch. Might not even be a VR6?
  23. FishWick
    Yeah the BMC is among the better IDs out there. It has a more civilised induction note than most others.
  24. FishWick
    185.....from an 1800? Must have had some pretty wild cams then. I had a MK1 16V too and it never pushed anywhere near that...more like 160....
  25. FishWick
    You'd be surprised actually. The 1800 pulls better than the 2.0. Many 1800 owners see 150 brake on the rollers instead of the quoted 139, but the 1800s are early and therefore didn't get the later refinements, such as the better interior, lights, fogs, indicators, VR6 humped bonnet etc and therefore look dated imo. Get rich quick and get a VR. The motoring pundits and Top Gear all agree the VR Corrado is the best of the lot, and there is a reason for that ;-)
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