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Everything posted by FishWick
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Black smoke is a sign of over-fuelling, the lambda probe might be dead.
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Why don't 4 of use lend him a space saver? That would be interesting to see, LOL!
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The VR isn't the quietest of engines! Ticking will either be the one or more hydraulic tappets or the fuel injectors.
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Seriously? Hope you haven't just scrapped the engine.....
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Oil burning - Newbie needs help
FishWick replied to Geastb's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
What grade of oil are you using? If it's thinner than 10/40, drain it and fill up with something thicker. You might have bore wear on cylinders 1 and 6, always the first to bite the bullet. Check your spark plugs for oil fouling. All 6 should be light grey and dry. Wet black ones indicate oil burning on it's respective cylinder. That's the worst case scenario, best case is thin oil or a head rebuild. K -
Probably worth doing if you do a clutch but not worth dropping the box just for that. My local machinists will reface, lighten and balance a VR flywheel for £57. It's a good idea to get the refacing done as a minimum to ensure a judder free replacement clutch. Advantages of weight reduction are increased engine responsiveness and better enginer braking. Disadvantages are the engine slows down much quicker, so pulling away and gearchanges will feel different. K
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Stalling Problem - Please Help !
FishWick replied to julesm's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Yeah they do idle well. My friend has got a 2000 WRX and a mate at work has got a P1. Both are wicked fun but I wouldn't own one. I wouldn't really say an Impreza is a poor man's Cossie, it's Sierra at the end of the day and they were ghastly cars. But I can appreciate the RS500 from a purists point of view. Escort Cosworth was a bit better, so long as it was the tamer lux and not the one with the ridiculous tail wing - which it didn't even need anyway. Anyway...moving way off topic here, LOL! -
Might be the coilpack or one or more HT Leads if you're getting misfiring, which would explain the rich running.
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I thought the number on the scuttle panel was the chassis number? Hmmm, they must have put the numbers in different places on the 2.9 and 2.8 lumps!
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I have to drive like a Grandad because my chains are about to snap. Come May 17th when I'm chained and Schricked, back to 5mpg again :-)
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Stalling Problem - Please Help !
FishWick replied to julesm's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
They're a bit fragile in places but awesome fun. -
Pulley side, just above block to head join. Might be rusty, take some emery cloth with you! It might still be on the barcode sticker if aswell if it's still readable after all these years.
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VW radiators are supplied by Valeo, so as long as your ECP or GSF one is made by them, it's genuine OE quality. As for Febi versus Genuine, always go genuine if there's not much in it. Don't get the febi wishbones with bushes pre-pressed in, they're pants. Stick some OE front bushes in the front and Vibratechnics rear bushes at the back of the wishbone! K
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Stalling Problem - Please Help !
FishWick replied to julesm's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
2.9 is known for that. Speak to any Corrado driver! I bet they scanned the engine when the ignition was off? Crank sensor always comes up when the engine is off. If the crank sensor was dead, the engine wouldn't even start, let alone stall at junctions. Sounds like they're charged you £140 for nothing. Only do the coilpack if you've got a misfire. This is a very tricky one to cure. You might have to get it chipped to 'fuel' out any issues that low in the rpm range. Failing that, you'll have to crank up the idle speed which the ECU and TPS won't like very much. K -
What do you mean by eating plugs? Wearing the electrodes away or just caking them in oil/carbon deposits? If you wearing 3 sets of plugs away in 18 months you are doing some serious mileage or your engine is running way too hot/pinking etc. Or your plugs are completely wrong for the engine. Should be using NGK BKRE5Us from the dealer. If they're getting caked in oil, you're burning. Start saving! K
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The VR has got a tall 1st, so you need to slip the clutch a bit to get smooth and rapid take-offs. The standard clutch is plenty strong enough to cope with it. K
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If you don't got mad with turbo size then it's possible to create a strong, reliable performer that can be used daily. Something like a T3/4 hybrid would give minimal lag and reasonable boost without being silly about it.
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Mine comes apart really easily, probably because it's been apart so frequently for repairs the bolts haven't had time to seize into their threads! Spoke to Vince today. It definitely isn't possible to do the top tensioner with the box in situ. Nevermind. It was worth a look. K
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The upper blade has a plethoronic blahdy blah coating on it. It only lasts to about about 85K and then the chains start to eat through it. You'll notice 2 deep gouges in the plastic pad and then the chain starts wearing the top two rivets down. Then the rivets take time out and fall into the sump. And then the joys of broken plastic pad ensue, metal on metal contact, joyous chain slap noises at 1200rpm and off you go to Stealth Racing for new chains, tensioners and chain rails. Oh what fun ay? Seriously though, I reckon you could rent an engine hoist, drop the box, swap out all the chai
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Yes you might need a new box I'm afraid. The 3rd gear clutch could be kapput or maybe the torque converter blades are bent. Can you select 4th manually? You might get away with a new gearbox ECU because they sometimes fail and don't govern the gearchanges properly. I was assisting a guy with a Corrado VR6 auto recently who had exactly the same problem and he needed a new box. He got a brand new one off eBay though for £600. VW will charge you £1200+VAT+fitting. K
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Allen bolts? Surely you mean 20 odd 11mm headed bolts? My sump was rusted through.... took it off and I could see daylight through the holes, LOL!
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I don't think it's possible to do the rivet trick I'm afraid. I stripped the top half of my engine today and the upper blade is goosed, reckon I've got about another 1000 miles max before the top rivets let go and the plastic pad breaks up. You can't remove the lower side plate without dropping the gearbox it looks like, not that I could work out anyway. Several bolts to remove but you'd have to remove the thermostat housing to get to some of them off but it does appear seperate from the bell housing. Ran out of daylight to try and remove said side plate. I'm going to use the late MK4 VR6 s
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Yeah in hindsight I'd have gone Highline too, but the Corrado was my hero car ever since I had my first MK1 Golf in 1995. Obviously I could never afford one of the 250 Aqua blue Storms with Black leather at £23K odd, so when they became affordable, I jumped at the chance! But as they say, teenage fantasies are often shattered when you finally get the real thing...... When Corrado VR6s were new, the sleek lines, stunning sculpted interiors, muscular bonnet and 2.9 engine ooozed sex appeal..... the dirty pot noodle of cars, LOL! But now, mint ones still draw heads but the total cost of owner