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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Is Geoff freelance now then? Take it he has left AmD? Glad you're pleased with the results. Are you running standard cams? Would some 248s or 256s remove that enormous trough at 4K? That's probably mostly down to the VGI though? Nice work. That is a *very* strong motor. K
  2. FishWick
    I think the CAI type design is best. That long tube does wonders for the torque and the engine sucks in nice cold air from down below.
  3. FishWick
    They can't quite go that far mate but they are very strong clutches. You will need a helix autosport clutch to handle regular doses of 350+! The standard one will hack it for a while but I doubt the gearbox will though!
  4. FishWick
    My chain gear was silent at 93K and if I hadn't inspected the upper tensioner when I did, I'd be none the wiser. It was fubar. VERY badly worn tensioners and chains will be noticable at 1200rpm and gives a rythmic, metallic slapping noise.
  5. FishWick
    What after the Schrick? A lot of £££s is the answer to that! I'm used to the Schrick, AMD and throttle and ECU map already! Got some some 268s to go in too but after that..... gotta be turbo really!
  6. FishWick
    Yeah you can install it yourself and just drive it gently to stealth for a rolling road setup. What psi is the blower giving? Do you need to lower the comp ratio? I would imagine you do if it's around 1 bar!
  7. FishWick
    Yeah I see what you mean mate, close isn't it! Have you got the kit yet? I think the only way to be sure is offer up the manifold and turbo and see what it fouls. If it *does* foul the servo, that's going to be a royal pain in the butt. If it does clear the servo it looks like it will almost certainly foul the fluid resevoir in which case, yep, run a remote resevoir from the scuttle area with pipes going to the master cylinder. Are there any other kits you could try that are known to clear RHD servos? Like EIP for example?
  8. FishWick
    LOL, I try not to be too techie. That Apexi gadget looks funky! It appears to be a kind of piggy back chip system, much like the one Stealth use, less all the fancy tricks of that Apexi. Vince is your man really, he's built a VR6 turbo before but basically you just optimise the fuelling via the chip. You'll need some bigger injectors too, depending on how far you're taking this. If you're going for big power, you might also need a beefier fuel pump. I don't know enough about it to be honest.
  9. FishWick
    £350! For parts maybe. The dealer quote for the whole job is around £1500.
  10. FishWick
    Stick a LUK in. SACHS ones have had issues recently. Vince has had to do a few warranty replacements on them. I would resurface the flywheel too as VRs sometimes judder after having a new clutch put in. Costs about £25 to skim a flywheel.
  11. FishWick
    Widebands give you a bigger spectrum of 02 readings, i.e. proper air/fuel ratio readings instead of a grid of moving LEDs. WB is highly recommended for forced induction. Get a second Bosch WB lambda installed in the front pipe which lets the OE lambda do it's job of reporting data to the ECU without the additional load of an AF meter, the second lambda concentrates solely on O2 readings, again, without interference from the original lambda. You can't actually modify the fuelling using a WB lambda kit. The ECU just alters the fuelling according to what it's told by the probe, but I suppose y
  12. FishWick
    LOL, I know what you mean! Standard VR 280 brakes are pretty poor on the initial bite anyway, so you'd only make matters worse tampering with it! I've yet to see a VR turbo kit that interferes with the brake servo. It's buried deep in the offside firewall corner, so it would take a very hefty setup to foul it! What stuff are you using? Seen your avatar, is that the kit? I think you'll be OK to be honest. You might have fouling issues with the brake fluid resevoir, but there are easy solutions to that little problem!
  13. FishWick
    OK.... H&R 'sports' (green) springs for the VR are not progressive. They look that way but they're not. If the ride is bouncy, dial in some more damping strength on the Konis. Ideal setting is 1.5 turns at the front and 0.75 at the back. That removes all bounciness and stiffens up the chassis considerably. The H&Rs are too strong for the Koni's softest setting, hence the bouncing and floating. The softest Koni setting is calibrated for standard springs. As for ARBs. They take the handling to the next dimension and as ACF8181 says, Neuspeed ones are pretty much the best, bar race
  14. FishWick
    The pushrod at the top of the pedal is directly connected to the servo. You cannot relocate it easily without using some elaborate E30 BMW or MK1 Golf torsion beam cross-linkage system. Besides which, direct pedal to Servo linkages offer the best pedal feel and braking force. Moving it would reduce the braking force. You could always lose the servo altogether and implement a servoless racing dual-master cylinder system. You would need to give the pedal a firm shove though! [ Edited Thu Jun 17 2004, 10:58PM ]
  15. FishWick
    A Schrick alone knocks a second off the VR6's 50-70 incremental acceleration time. Focus on that, rather than 0-60. 0-60 is dated, pub talk nonsense that offers no reflection to how quick a car is in the 'real world'. Same with dyno plots. All dynos measure torque at the wheels and then some creative 'adjustments' are then applied to come up with some fantasy crank hp figures. At the end of the day, if the car feels quick on the road (where it counts), then it *is* quick.
  16. FishWick
    Remove the engine to replace the rocker gasket?? LOL! £500 to HK is cheap, cost me £900 in 1999 with Cathay Pacific....mmmm...quality hostesses!!! Get some carb cleaner, blast the dripping oil away, take the inlet manifold off and nip the rocker cover bolts up. Should cure your leak.
  17. FishWick
    94 Corrado ABV engines are coilpack equipped. To run a dizzy on the AAA or ABV, you need the relevant brain, side plate (cam sensor-less one) and of course the dizzy and HT coil, leads etc. And also the requisite cam sprocket on the inlet cam to drive the dizzy. ABV cams are more aggressive than AAA ones too. [ Edited Thu Jun 17 2004, 10:23PM ]
  18. FishWick
    That looks like a PC cooling fan! Can't beat mechanical forced induction - until Renault perfect their pulley-less, Camshaft-less, 24V engine technology that is. They've currently got some seriously hi-tech kit under development at the moment..... watch this space.
  19. FishWick
    Transmission coolers aren't easy to implement on the 02A box, or needed. Just stick some Redline MT90 oil in it. That's all you need. Having said that, I think VW Motorsport used to do an finned housing for extreme use. Not cheap! As for the Mocal engine oil coolers, they rock. My Corrado was running at 114 degrees cruising at 80 before the Mocal, now it runs at 94-96. Oil kept at less than or at 100 degrees = stable viscosity and less consumption. [ Edited Thu Jun 17 2004, 10:13PM ]
  20. FishWick
    Yep, it's the thing with the connector on it, above the blue hose. Where did you get that blue hosing for the Schrick plumbing from? Looks cool!
  21. FishWick
    At 107K with FSH, VW won't have changed the chains. As far as they are concerned, they're fitted for life. Their faces are a picture when you get a quote for chain replacement! My dealer quoted me £1000 and I told them they're a bunch of idiots if they think I'd pay that and let them set the timing a tooth out. Stealth all the way!
  22. FishWick
    Change the selector bushings and associated components. That's where the slack is coming from. A rebush of the cables at the box end will help too. The 02A cable arrangement gets bad press but when it's sorted, it's among the best change there is. My Corrado change is slick, tight and very light. I can swap cogs with my little finger! If you go for a box rebuild. Get Vince to do it. He is the absolute best there is with box rebuilds.
  23. FishWick
    All of the chain parts are made by SACHS if you get them from VW. The GSF chains are FEBI which aren't as good. The total price for all of the parts is around £200. I would urge you to use the MK4 upper tensioner 021 509 109E and the corresponding tensioning bolt 021 507 109B as they last indefinitely. There are a couple of pdfs and diagrams and also a worn chain noise wma here:- http://homepage.ntlworld.com/kevin.hayward/pics/ I know a good deal about this, having done it recently, so get back to me if you need any more info. In theory the Galaxy parts should be the same but personally I'd
  24. FishWick
    Use carb cleaner in the ISV followed by a quick spray of silicon maintanence spray. The trouble with the VR ISV is the internal vane occassionally jams because it sits above the exhaust manifold, absorbing tonnes of heat. Check the scoring on it when you take it off! Another remedy the VR really enjoys is a clean up of the throttle butterfly with carb cleaner. A good source for MAFs is a local bosch distributor. Bosch direct only charge you £150 exchange for a MAF, as opposed to £321+VAT from VW. You can test the MAF by doing the following:- When at temperature and idling, pull the MAF plug
  25. FishWick
    Hmmm, so it cranks over but doesn't fire? It might be the ignition switch from what you've said. Have you tried wiggling the key about as you turn it? How old is the car? Might have a dodgy transponder in the key if you've got a factory immobiliser. Prolonged VR starts are generally caused by a crank sensor that's losing it's resolution or some kind of ignition related problem. Just a few more ideas for the melting pot.....
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