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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Quaiffes are a good move with FI and a standard car. But rather than letting the excess torque spin away safely, the load is transferred back into the box, so you need to make sure the box can handle it. A standard rebuild with new bearings, synchro cones and a bolted diff will definitely add a little extra strength but if you plan on really big torque, then a stronger gearset, such as the Gemini 6 speed conversion and steel CV cages is a wise move. The 02A box is quite strong and can cope with a fair amount of torque, but it will be the weakest link if you're putting over 300 pounds of tor
  2. FishWick
    The EIP manifold doesn't yield half what the Schrick or VSR does. Injectors - don't bother on a standard engine. Big bore throttle - Yeah they're pretty good. It's quite a restrictive component in standard form but you should really only look at that as a package with Schrick VGI, 256, 264 or 268 cams and a remap, otherwise it'll just mess up your bottom end if used on it's own on a standard engine. The VR6 is not a cheap engine to extract more power and torque from. It was never designed to be a tarmac shredder. It was designed to give 6 cylinder refinement and smoothness in a compact ha
  3. FishWick
    Yeah my VW exhaust is well ropey too. How about a group buy on Supersprint manifolds too? I think they're tuned length like the Schrick, so should give some good results, especially in the midrange. Lose the CAT too and you should be onto a winning system :-)
  4. FishWick
    Have a look at plugs 1 and 6, if they're oiled up the bores have ovalised.
  5. FishWick
    £1400 for a new lump? Not from VW, you're looking at £2500 just for a short ABV block!
  6. FishWick
    Piece of cake. Get a long 8mm bolt (13mm head) from B&Q, needs to be about 4 - 5" long. Looking at the belt tensioner, you'll see a threaded hole. Guess where that bolt goes? Screw it right down until the tension is released from the belt. Then you can take the belt off. They're about £20 from the dealer. You might need to remove the plastic rain shield that shrouds the Power steering pump too.
  7. FishWick
    To get the front cable guide off, slide it to the right. The other guides come off by using an 8mm spline too.
  8. FishWick
    Incidentally, Nspeed bars are £156 new from C&R Enterprises in Nottingham. And I have to say, C&R are very good to mail order from. As are Awesome GTI. Both have provided me with exceptional service over the years.
  9. FishWick
  10. FishWick
    Yep, because he suscribes to my way of doing things ;-)
  11. FishWick

    VR6 Vs BMW M3

    FishWick replied to a topic in General Chat

    They're not too bad. My mate's WRX rattles a lot less than my car does and the way they absorb undulations and pot holes will shame any VW.
  12. FishWick
    Yeah Vince built a high compression 3.0 and it kicked butt. But the owner decided he wanted more, so sold it, nutter! Trouble is these days, where the hell can you use this power freely? I don't know about you but my daily commute consists of 30 minutes crawling in traffic and about enough room for 90 tops on the dual-carriageway! This is why I cannot stress enough the importance of making the turbo conversion factory reliable. Not trying to put you off or anything, LOL! I would still go the turbo route mate. You will have so much power and torque on tap, which = big smiles per miles :-)
  13. FishWick
    My advice, coming from a Turbo'd MK2 16V background is to first off sit down and work out what it is you want to achieve. A mega boosted Turbo engine will be useless as a daily driver and Nova GTE's will embarrass you as you wait for the turbine to spool up. The VR is a good basis for forced induction because it can absorb a lot of boost and the big capacity with a Schrick will look after you in the bottom end. One word of caution with the Schrick and FI though, that flap. On rare occasions, the flap has been known to be overwhelmed by the boost pressure and break. Just a wee warning. A
  14. FishWick
    Ah...you'll be wanting to drain the sump when you fit the new parts then! Happens all the time. Just make sure you get all the bits out or the bores might get scored.
  15. FishWick
    Stealth can get the Raceware bolts for you. They're the best in the industry and they'll keep that engine together when you apply the big boost :-) Yeah the bores will need taking out if you fit the JE pistons. Yep I think it's 83mm too. I am also considering a 3.1 High compression NA lump using the 11:1 JE pistons. And also, Vince has somewhere a special ABT crank kicking about than can in theory give you a 3.4 swept volume. I dunno, choices choices, eh? I'd be happy with a 3.1 High compresion engine with a Schrick big valve head, the VGI and the 268s.... looking at an easy 250 with that
  16. FishWick
    A lot of VRs suffer from piston slap. It's a kind of diesely noise for about 20-30 seconds. It's nothing to worry about. Worn big ends sound like a low pitched metallic knocking at all temperatures.
  17. FishWick
    An abscence of catalyser plates is a good thing! And £100 for the Magnex is a bargain! Shame I've got a Corrado! Anyway, I'd go with a decat. 90% of MOT testers are only interested in emissions, not the CAT. So long as your car passes those, you're fine. Decent decats are actually an expansion box in their own right, so look a bit like a cat anyway.
  18. FishWick
    Probably the Vehicle speed sensor. It's at the back of the gearbox above the diff. Have you got VAG-COM? If so, look for an "Implausible signal" error on G68. Or possibly "Short to ground" or "No signal" G68s are about £20 from the dealer and 15 mins work to replace. K [ Edited Sat Jun 19 2004, 07:59PM ]
  19. FishWick
    Depends what your overall goal is mate. The 9:1s wil give you a nice 3.0 and if you're planning on big boost, you may aswell stress relieve and shot peen the conrods whilst the block is out. Raceware rod and head bolts are a must too. They're high tensile and reusable, so a good investment. Flowing is a consideration but not essential. Adds to the bill quite considerably. Looking at £1200 easily for a Schrick flowed and big valve head..... makes a massive difference tho, even on normally aspirated. I'm no expert on VR turbos but if you want a solid motor that will be daily usable, toug
  20. FishWick
    Ah OK mate. Working at a dealer is mega handy. Take it you have access to the VW 1551/1552 scanning system then? No codes..... gotta be a wiring fault in the ABS loom somewhere. The ATE ECU is 100% accurate in it's reporting (unlike the Motronic 2.9 engine ECU) so if there's no codes, there's no faults, simple as. I take it you've taken the car out and jumped on the brakes to see if the ABS does indeed work? Trouble is, the car will fail the MOT if the blasted light doesn't behave. Well, I'm stumped sorry to say but let us know if you find the the problem!
  21. FishWick
    Very bizzare! Can't offer an explanation about the coincidental wiper/heater issue (hope the previous owner has messed with the wiring looms) but I can suggest you invest in VAG-COM. It scans both the engine and ABS ECUs. You can get it from www.ross-tech.com or www.vag-com.co.uk Having experienced both sources, I can say Ross tech are the better, more knowledgable people. Taking it to VW for a diagnostic check will cost you up to £80 per hour before they even beging rectification work, so £125 for the VAG-COM lead is a wiser option. Trust me, it will pay for itself many times over if y
  22. FishWick
    Yep, chipping in the VW/Audi scene wouldn't be what it is today without Geoff Everett. Yeah there always was a good collaboration with Stealth and Geoff. Most of Vince's engine work went to AmD for dyno'ing before he got his own rollers. As far as I'm concerned, there is no better VW resource in the country than AmD and Stealth. K
  23. FishWick
    Err, no. As I said, that means jack. I can tell you now a Saturday morning lifting the rocker cover is good peace of mind. If the upper tensioner's phenolic resin coating hasn't broken through, thumbs up, put it all back together and enjoy the car. But if you see two deep scores that are beginning to eat through the upper rivets. Take it easy on the revs and start saving.
  24. FishWick
    Please don't use bodgey copper gaskets! Use the proper JE 9:1 pistons and you'll have a much more reliable, tougher motor. You can go higher than 10psi with those too and you'll get an easy 350 brake. As you know, the VR is one hot running motor, especially the rear bank, so Aquamist water/methanol injection is a wise addition to the itenary too. It will relax the knock sensors and knock those inlet temps right down.
  25. FishWick
    Helix clutches rock. They use SACHS sporting pressure plates with their own design friction disc. I ran a Helix clutch on my MK2 16V Turbo (see stealth's project car section for my old car!). My only reservation of helix is they're heavy and they're bloody tight fisted with the friction material. I only got about 40K out of mine....grrr....not good for £450. Gearbox. Well the 02A is a damn site tougher than the old 020 rod selector box but it still shares the same diff pin issue, so you'll be wanting to replace the rivets with bolts as the first port of call. If you've ever seen a rivet
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