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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. Check the bores. Number 6 tends to ovalise prematurely on some engines. I would do as the others say and do the chains & tensioners too, but it depends what mileage you're at. Anything over 80K then definitely do them. I've just had mine done as there was slack in my chains. I also took the brave step of experimenting with the 1999 12V solid upper tensioner and sprung/hydraulic tensioner bolt. I believe I am one of the first people to do this on a pre 99 12V engine. Certainly the 1st Stealth have done. So far so good. The engine is now dead quiet and you can really feel the differe
  2. Ah the good old 2.5K hunting. You're not alone there my friend. Given your dyno figures, which are extremely good, I'd learn to live with it. The reason I say that is because I have a very healthy VR6 myself, a Corrado in fact, and I have replaced just about everything you can on it, new head, MAF, idle valve, all sensors, chains etc and I also recently put an AMD remapped ECU in and it still does as yours does at 2.5K. I've learnt to drive round it and have accepted it's probably never going to get sorted during the car's stint with me. Given the rest of the rev-range is superbly torquey,
  3. Dubloke, the flap mechanism is the bit that's warranted. The casting is a non-wear item so you get the same one back again - with a new flap. So polish away. I picked my car up from Vince today and had a chat with him about it. The poor guy is not only under the weather, but he has a bunch of issues with Schrick AND SACHs with the dodgy clutches. He managed to sort my flap (yes the Schrick one Evil, LOL!) but mine was one of 5 dodgy ones so far. And yep, a UK based 3rd party has been contracted in to sort the repairs, so Schrick will be getting a big bill. Looking on the bright side, at lea
  4. Assuming we're talking about the two fans speeds and not the number of them (connected with a belt as Sixappeal says), speed one comes on at 90 or thereabouts (IIRC) and speed two comes on at 100, along with the secondary water pump. The fans should not be on when you start the car from cold, but then again, that is true of a non-air conned car, so I'm not too sure what air conned engines do to be honest. I know my mate's Rado VR6 with air-con doesn't have the fans on when started in the morning. Sorry, that's all I can offer as I don't have air-con. Hope it helps in some small way anyway!
  5. Oh dear....not another one! Is this Schrick's way of showing their disdain for letting them out of the doors at such a bargain price? What annoys me is I'm pretty sure Schrick have known about this problem for a while now because Vince mentioned jamming flaps to me last year!
  6. What the turn2 pipe? You can't make it any larger than the diameter of the MAF, which is what size the standard pipe is. You can get big bore MAFs though. They're made of Alloy but are generally for turbo applications.
  7. Not convinced by Ecotek valves. They just introduce an air-leak.
  8. Here you go :- http://www.turn2usa.com Click on products, then cold air intake [ Edited Thu May 20 2004, 07:57PM ]
  9. Of all the induction kits available for the VR, I like the BMC because the filter is enclosed like the standard setup, and the turn2 CAI. I like that one because you get a chuffing great pipe that sucks cold air in from outside and that huge tube helps with torque. I think the CAI and BMC both deliver around 5-7hp if the rest of the engine is tip top.
  10. That doesn't sound too clever. I think you really need to get that motor scanned whilst it's running and see what the ECU is complaining about. If it moans about mixture adaption limits being reached, it's probably the MAF. It could also be the cam position sensor as that's another favourite. If the car ran fine prior to the MAF going south, odds are your replacement one is duff aswell. Have you checked the other thread about who has VAG-COM in which geographical area? You could try replacing the ECU and fuel pump relays for good measure too. I've found that helps with peculiar behavio
  11. You can check the ABS ECU and the Engine's stored fault codes with the engine off but ignition on. Engine speed sensor (G28) and vehicle speed sensor (G68) will both come up as faulty with the engine off. Ignore those as it's a bug in the ECU's firmware. Obviously if the crank and Final drive aren't rotating, there won't be a signal.....well done Bosch! With the engine running, you can do more thorough checking of the Idle valve (N71) adaption values, inlet temperature, coolant temp, O2 activity, idle speed, injector pulse times, fuel adapation limits etc etc. As you say, the MAF (G40) wil
  12. 89.9p!! Not long before it will be a £1 a litre. I really will consider a diesel then.
  13. Yep seconded about Vince. I've been frequenting his Workshop for 4 years and he's always on the end of a phone line to help me out. Yeah Stealth are open 9 till 1 on Saturdays.
  14. I'm not sure if it's pissable, but I hear it is 'possible' though, LOL! Sorry, couldn't resist! Although the OBD1 (hot wire) MAF has more pins than OBD2 (hot film), 1 or 2 of them are redundant. So in theory, you should be able to use the wires from the OBD1 loom and splice them into an OBD2 connector, if you can find one from somwhere. I've never tried it but I have been told it's been done. I'm not sure if the hot film behaves differently to the hot wire either, so it'll be a trial and error thing. The film MAFs are more reliable though. As an aside, our American friends on the Vortex si
  15. Yeah do check that out as the ECU will think the engine is running lean and over compensate with the fuelling. Good excuse to put a cat-bypas on whilst you're down there !
  16. Chortle! I have to be a baffoon occasionally or you fine people will think I'm a nerdy geek that doesn't get out much. Which isn't too far from the truth actually, LOL! K
  17. Doesn't it? Very strange! Maybe someone stole your ECU one night and put an Alba walkman in it's place?
  18. I wouldn't mod the standard airbox if I were you. I tried that during my great induction modding sorte. Induction kits are noisy, that's a given. Some people like it, I don't personally, but for some reason, tampering with the factory box makes a god awful noise and if you remove the helmholtz resonator (aka snorkel in the box lid), the bloomin dashboard shakes when the engine comes on the cam!! Not pleasant!
  19. I've got VAG-COM and am willing to scan/help anyone in the East Anglia region. Your black tailpipes should clear up after a long, hard run. The deposits should be dry and not stain your finger. If the deposits are thick and won't easily wipe off your chosen digit, the engine is running a tad on the rich side. Wet deposits when the engine and exhaust are fully up to temperature spells trouble. They're not hard and fast rules as sitting in traffic jams all day long will soot up the exhaust too. And lastly, since the demise of leaded petrol, most exhausts are black now anyway. It seems to be
  20. You might have an air leak upstream of the 02 sensor. Have a listen to the engine around the back and see if you can hear any exhaust blowing noises. You can check the O2 sensor with a high impedance multimeter. On the rear engine mount there is two connectors. The longer of the two is the 02 plug. Prod the meter's red lead into the white wire and rest the meter's black lead on the engine somewhere for ground. You need to do this when the engine is hot as the 02 sensor doesn't work until the pre-heater has done it's job, that usually takes 2 minutes. Don't burn your arms on the exhaust
  21. Part numbers for the red Berus, if it helps anyone:- N907680(01), 02, 03, 04, 05 and 06 Prices ranging from £14.98 - £17.12 depending on lead length. K
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