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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Speak to Vince, he's got a ratio program on his computer but using a G60 3.61 diff, 5th at 4000rpm, drops to 88mph. I think it's about 95 normally? So it's not a drastic drop by any means, but the improved ingear flexibility will be welcomed. Mine's booked in for a rebuild + 3.61 diff + Quaife ATB in a week or so. I think he's thin on the ground of 3.6 crown wheels, so if you want this mod, book it soon otherwise a new crown from VW will cost you a chunky £200. If you want more flexibility from the engine in gear, but want to keep the same 5th's relaxed cruising, you can fit a taller 5th. T
  2. FishWick
    So you were sitting there with the engine idling and it just died? Very odd. Are you sure it didn't die as you approached the junction, which is the more common occurence? If it just stopped whilst idling....I'd say crank sensor. If it died as you dipped the clutch, then it could be any number of things, which you will find using the search.
  3. FishWick
    1) That 'thing' in the breather hose is a dummy on UK cars. On American cars it's a heater. Putting a capacitor on a dummy bit of plastic will achieve precisely squat. Or is the cap bridging the connector terminals? 2) Sell it on eBay, they do bugger all. 3) Slight Slope. It tilts down at the gearbox end, perfectly normal. 4) God knows. If the engine runs OK, shouldn't worry about it. It might be something technicians use when testing.
  4. FishWick
    A few more links:- http://the-corrado.net/forum/files/i_love_ice_grey.jpg http://the-corrado.net/forum/files/swissoly_roof_and_sexy_b5_passat.jpg http://the-corrado.net/forum/files/there_is_no_better_wheel.jpg Stu, thanks mate, appreciate the positive feedback. I spent 5 hours cleaning and waxing it with Swissol products prior to the show! Apart from the beatings the front of the car has suffered over the years (stone chips) it's pretty good. Yeah I borrowed the RH's off the current owner of them for the inters weekend. I miss the way they enhanced the car but I'm loving the way it feels o
  5. FishWick
    Hiya, cheers for the further comments. This is why I can't keep away from the VW scene. The mutual respect and common interest is hard to find elsewhere, in fact I don't think any other marque has so many fans, internationally? Anyway, erm, the seam welding...Vince just did that for me during one visit. He used to do that to the Vento Cup racers he used to prepare back in the day. He ground the subframe joins down and then mig welded all round it. Because the subframe is two halves spot welded together, you get some movement from it during hard cornering and it also supports the engine,
  6. FishWick
    It would be easier to disconnect the crank sensor plug on the front engine mount....that way you won't get fuel or spark for safe cranking. The tensioner bolt doesn't need filling with oil if it's an OBD2 engine, and I'm assuming yours is as it's a 97...but to check, the head of early engines' tensioning bolts was about 1cm deep. If yours is about 4 or 5mm thick, it's the later spring/hyrdaulic type bolt and won't need bleeding. Part number ends with B on the later ones. You'll need a 27mm socket to remove it. At 67K, I seriously doubt you have tensioner or chain issues but stick a long screw
  7. FishWick
    That's just excess fuel burning off in the hot exhaust on the over-run. I've yet to hear a VR that doesn't do that....even rebuilt ones do it. It's just poor managment from the Motronic 2.9 ECU...over-run and idle control is cr@p on this ECU.
  8. FishWick
    The MAF is connected between the airbox and air intake hose, should be pretty easy to spot.
  9. FishWick
    Shouldn't be losing 40 pounds. Did you VAG-COM it on the rolling road? Looks suspiciously like the curve you get when the cam position sensor is dead, or hall sender if you've got a dizzy VR.
  10. FishWick
    A 3.6 final drive (instead of the leggy 3.3) will perk the acceleration up quite nicely. Or a 3.94 from a Passat if you want ballistic acceleration...but with about a 120mph top speed, LOL! Good excuse to drop a quaiffe in aswell...
  11. FishWick
    The VR ECU does not monitor the MAF. It's only concerned with the connection. The most common MAF error is "Intermittant short to ground". Other than that, it's hard to tell if the MAF is buggered unless you put it on a scope....but if the car is gutless and using a lot of fuel, the ECU is 'guesstimating' the fuelling via the throttle angle sender.
  12. FishWick
    All you need is a couple of bits of 4mm steel. it's purely to hold the cam still whilst cranking the bearing caps down. Doesn't have to be shaped like the VW one, any old bit of metal will do. As mentioned above, I also have the VW tool if required.
  13. FishWick
    You need to reset the ECU after you change the Throttle Position sensor. There isn't much you can do by way of setting up, other than ensuring the throttle angle at rest is less than 14 degrees (VAG-COM required). Symptoms of a knackered TPS included erratic idling, flat spots and jerky part throttle cruising.
  14. FishWick
    Thanks again! The Highline is the only MK3 I'd consider really as VW really went to town with it. Good engines those OBD2 ones aswell. Mine's no ordinary Corrado though, it's been fully dynamatted, sound deadended and derattled. It's quieter than a BMW! But all that extra weight is taking it's toll so I need a more powerful lump now! Not sure whether to R32 it or Supercharge it. I'd want to supercharge the 12V inconjunction with a bottom end rebuild, so I reckon it would be cheaper just going the 24V route....what dya reckon? The 12V is past it's best now and the infamous 1 and 6 bore w
  15. FishWick
    Cheers for the comments chaps! The rims look nice but they don't handle nice! The thing is, RHs aren't especially heavy for aftermarket wheels but the ZW1s are 23lbs each! Compare that to 15lbs for a Speedline and 14lbs for a Solitude, and you get the picture. And that's plus air and tyres of course too! 10 year old subframes don't really take 17s too well imo, despite mine being seam welded. Anyway...i was thinking of selling because Corrados are such fickle and flakey cars. Must be nice having a sunroof that works eh Stu and Anorak? Seen many Golf VRs at Stealth and they all put out sim
  16. FishWick
    Evening all, I've been lurking around on here for a while now, so thought I'd better introduce myself! Here is my 94 Corrado VR6 in it's rather unusual shade of Ice Grey Violet metallic. It was heavily modified but is now standard again, bar Konis and H&Rs. I thought about selling up but have decided to keep it and either supercharge it or drop in an R32 lump as the 2.9 is getting tired. Shrek and 268s now sadly gone Look how tight it is there compared to the Golf's engine bay! Notice the Lupo GTI 'aero' wiper blades, standard Corrado items are utterly useless above 50mph. Sta
  17. FishWick
    You should get a noticable gain in the midrange if the runners have been tuned right. Not sure how much of a gain you'll get in numbers though. Very few people in this country use that manifold, in fact I don't know of 1 person, so you may have to find out for yourself!
  18. FishWick
    Iridium is pointless in the VR6, it's hard on plugs and there is no peformance benefit.
  19. FishWick
    They look good! That in combination with a seam welded subframe will make the front very rigid. After 10 or so years, the subframes tend to flex a little. Only one slight snag though....the engine will need jacking up to get to the offside wishbone bolt.
  20. FishWick
    Have a look at the cam sensor, oil will leak out of that and down the upper cover plate if the sensor's seal is damaged/worn. A blowing exhaust shouldn't affect it too badly unless it's upstream of the 02 probe.
  21. FishWick
    How late is your Golf? If it's a highline, you MAY still be eligable for the £75 exchange scheme VW do for MK4 et al owners. The Corrado's OBD1 MAF had that deal pulled a few months ago, so now we have to stump up the full £378+VAT. It's damn outrageous that they charge that much for one car and only £75 for another. Bastards. Check with the dealer. I wouldn't use a s/hand one as chances are it will be as bad as yours. If you can find a local garage that is an authorised Bosch technician, then you can get new MAFs from them for £150 exchange, or £200 new.
  22. FishWick
    Try flowing and port matching the existing exhaust manifold first as that can yield quite good results and is cheap to do. Proper tuned length headers (to counter act the unequal length ports in the head) would probably see better gains, but finding one that's known to work well, other than the 'work of art' SuperSprint could prove tricky.
  23. FishWick
    Only if the cam sprockets jump more than a tooth, which is unlikely unless you're very brutal with the engine. Best bet is to take it easy on 100K until you can confirm they're OK. From my experience, the 97 on simplex chained engines rarely need doing at 100K as they have solid polymer upper pads....but the head *may* still need doing at this milage due to guide wear. OBD1 duplex engines usually always exhibit deep scores in the upper pad but 100K....some even sooner. Mine went at 93K. I replaced the upper pad with 509E though and used the corresponding bolt, 507B. I checked it when doing
  24. FishWick
    That shouldn't happen with the original VW leads but can with a aftermarket ones, as I found out too. I had to fork out for the red ones from the dealer. I managed to bash them down to £90....no way I'm paying £120, although the they are way better quality than any of the aftermarket ones. The OE Berus just seem to last longer and take the heat better.... my idle has been on the nail ever since and that infamous 1500-2000rpm thing has reduced drastically.
  25. FishWick
    Cheers for the responses guys... I retackled the job on Thursday night and I had indeed been a plum. I somehow managed to advance the cam timing a tooth. It's all too easy on this engine if you're tired and not concentrating fully! Luckily I only did about 40 miles with the timing in this state, so no lasting damage will have occurred...hopefully! The cam trigger wheel costs £7 and yeah I always replace those as they usually crack when you crank off the sprocket bolt. So to answer my own question then, the symptoms of being a tooth out are fairly normal running but doesn't like going over 40
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