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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. Yeah the eibach rear is supplementary to the factoty one and fixes to the lower strut bolts and is clamped around the axle with stainless straps. Set your coilovers so that the ground to arch measurement is 60cm all round. If you want to be hardcore, get someone to measure the distance on the driver's side with you sitting in the car with a full tank and set the driver's side to be the same as the passenger side with with you in it. That means the car will sit a couple of mill higher on the driver's side unladen, but on the road it makes a difference. That's basically corner weighting the
  2. Yeah Nerih is right. The lambda is in closed loop (fixed at 0.5 v) for 2 minutes until the heater warms it up, so iffy running when cold is to be expected. Check your plugs for wear and oil fouling too. I recommend NGK BKR5EIX iridiums (or BKR6EIX if you're charged) as a good plug, perfect burn. available from www.sparkplugs.co.uk Another favourite is the blue temp sender in the stat housing and also the MAF sensor, which on OBD2s is quite common, they're not as reliable as the OBD1 wire MAFS. You can check the MAFs by hooking up a voltmeter to the red wire in the loom and making sure you
  3. I've got a supersprint decat on mine and it freed up the engine nicely, feels so much livlier in the bottom end. Jetex do a nice 100 cell freeflow cat for about
  4. Mark, totally what Joe says. I got my 3.68 diff and shaft from Vince s/hand for
  5. Vortechs are solid old things, so s/hand ones are unlikely to be problematic. If you want refinement, go for the V9 SQ trim. Good for over 20psi and much quieter than the V1...but they're still quiet noisy, it's a nice noise though. Agreed, nothing is cheap. Adding 100hp to the VR is fraught with problems, some engines take to it well, others don't. A decent remap is crucial. I've done 2500 miles on my NSR kit and it's still not there yet. Seems the map is over fuelling, but it's been reliable though, which is the main thing.
  6. Mine's on 121K and I added a charger to it 2K ago, if anything it's getting faster and smoother the older it gets.
  7. Yeah, on that score Stealth have got a Walbro pump waiting for me. I don't think the standard pump has enough balls at the top end. And because the injector duty cycle is shorter, the MFA thinks I'm doing 40mpg! Half that more like!
  8. The Rado box is exactly the same as the Golf one. Only the yank VR6 SLC got different gearing. Don't use a 3.94 (passat), it's too short and you'll be forever rowing the gearbox. What you want is a G60 3.68 (corrado) final drive. I got Vince to chuck out my standard 3.39 diff (too tall) and replace it with the 3.68 crown wheel when he did my Quaife. The difference is amazing, it's like adding 30hp to the engine. 5th gear punch from 3500rpm is superb as is accelerating through the lower gears. I would say if you're planning on a chain job, get the box rebuilt with a 3.68 and stick a quaife
  9. You will lose torque if you reduce back pressure in normally aspirated applications. I have a supersprint cat bypass on mine and it made a profound difference in N/A and with the charger. Much keener and smoother. I have retained the factory Lientz Corrado system because it's f'in brilliant basically. Lasts 10 years easily and flows very well....and more importantly, it's quiet. With chargers you can get away with a relatively restrictive system as unlike turbos, excessive back pressure doesn't stall the turbine.
  10. Followers, yes replace them. New cams must always be used with new followers. Get them from GSF as they're the same INA ones VW use, but
  11. I've had the old stage 2 charger setup from NSRacing on my Corrado VR for 2000 miles now and thought I'd give some feedback. Well in short, it's flipping mental. Strong torque all the way through and it goes ballistic at 3500rpm, thanks to my shorter final drive. I love it !lol The charger kit just takes the VR to another level, perfect idle, creamy acceleration and mind blowing performance. 232bhp per tonne I make it, which is 32 more than the current 997 Porsche carrera Speaking of 997s, I was playing with one tonight during a 158 mile journey, which is where the 13mpg comes from, I u
  12. Drop the sump. Undo the bearing caps. Examine the shells. If you can see copper, they're fecked. Look for scoring on the journals. If you can see scoring, game over, regrind time. No scoring....count yourself lucky and fit new shells. Big end wear exhibits a loud rumbling noise at hot idle and when you rev the engine quickly it goes...B-BBBrrrrrrr insteat of rrrrrrr, if that makes sense LOL! You will know when the BEs are knackered. Don't confuse cold start piston slap with knackered BEs.
  13. Yep, they are. Except the US SLC which has a shorter final drive.
  14. Carlube is junk! Give the VR oil it deserves, dealer quantum at worst or Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 at best.
  15. If the throttle position sensor is the original one, replace it. VW have superceded them with a far superior one. The ECU is very fussy with the throttle angle sensor, it's the only plug in the entire loom that uses gold plated contacts. It's critical. Residue build up in the throttle doesn't do any harm but residue in the Idle valve can as it causes the rotating vane to intermittanly stick. Also raise the dashpot on the throttle body up a few turns so that it catches the throttle earlier on the overrun.
  16. Get yourself Part number T1009 from the dealer, it's a proper metal plug lead removal tool. Way better than the crappy plastic one. Don't over tighten the plugs, 25lbt will do it. The leads are all numbered, as is the coilpack/dizzy, so mistakes are impossible if you pay attention to what you're doing.
  17. Any engine is only as reliable as the maintenance and care it receives. Have you checked the coilpack?
  18. The VR is prone to air locks, don't what ever you do fill the coolant up via the expansion tank. Don't use 50/50 either, too much glycol reduces the water's ability to absorb heat. Go with a 60/40 water to G12+ mix maximum. I use 65/35 personally. The water pump will slosh the mix up, so don't worry about that. Don't forget to drain the block by unscrewing the drain plug on the plastic transfer pipe. It's above and the left of the oil filter housing. When you've emptied the coolant out, refill via the radiator top hose. This drives air out from the bottom of the block up and out through th
  19. Superb! Good skills my man. I do hope you have a nice fat anti roll bar at the back too?
  20. Get one thing in your mind from the outset, tuning the VR is expensive. OK, the 2.9 engine was restricted to less than 200 bhp to fall inline with German insurance policies. In the 90s, german premiums rose dramatically if the car gave more than 200bhp. That's all changed now but it's why the Corrado, Merc Kompressor, BMW 328i (E36) were all under 200hp. The VR's inlet is restrictive, quite deliberately so. First thing to do is email alpina527@aol.com and get a big bore throttle. This is no quick polish job, it's a full on rebore with a larger butterfly. This will give you another 10 pound
  21. Need to define the knocking a bit more really but a lot of VRs have piston slap first thing in the mornings, which is normal and sounds like a diesely rattle. Should only last 30 seconds to a minute maxium though. If you can get hold of an oil pressure guage, look for 4 bar pressure at idle when cold and 8-9 bar at 3000 rpm. Hot idle pressure should be 2 bar and 4 bar on the move. If those readings are achieved, then the pump is fine. It's handy having the OE Corrado volt and pressure guages in my centre console ;-) As for the oil, I recommend Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 full synthetic. It's a
  22. That's the water-to-oil heat exchanger. Try nipping the nut up a bit more and see if it helps. You can get new O rings from the dealer no probs.
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