FishWick
-
Content Count
2,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by FishWick
-
I bought the red ones from VW earlier this year, the part numbers aren't really needed as they're very easy to find on their system. The price is just under
-
-
The dastek is OK, but less than ideal, you can only take away enrichment and advance , you can't add it like you can with an EPROM. Yep the Dastek intercepts the MAF signal. Nerih, Raj took my car this evening and gave me a minter of a MK3 GTI to use in the meantime, can't fault his serive. Anyway, it's looking like my car will end up at either AmD or RP Engineering, some Garrett authorised place. The problem as you say is heat and OBD1's inability to deal with it. OBD1 has preset knock tables, and they're pretty limited aswell as slow to react. OBD2 has a much broader spectrum of adjustm -
Aquamist is the way to go. What you want is the System1 and the DD3 digital dash display if you want to keep an eye on the water flow. Aquamist pumps are better than those cheapy diaphragm ones, which aren't especially reliable. I've spoken to Richard at aquamist about a GB and he's given me prices for 10 and 20 buyers, but they're funny about forums and I'm not allowed to broadcast the prices on here, but I'm hoping to get the 20 price through this and the Corrado forum, which includes the dash display. I'm afraid you have to PM me if you want a price, sigh.... RRP on System 1 and DD3 is
-
I think VF engineering , or maybe Vortech themselves bought out Z eng'? So all the kits are now are Vortech based and ZE did all the intial bracket work to make them fit VRs. C2 give you more in their kits than VFE and run 10 psi instead of 8, which is what you get with a VF stage 2. The Z1 was dry ceramic and serp' driven, Z2 oil fed and toothed belt. Z1s were problematic, Z2s much better. The Vortechs and Z2s take oil off the filter housing with a splitter. Oil is then fed back into the sump as per a turbo. Turbine blades are steel. Prices, NSRacing do a V9-SQ based kit for
-
using a bit more oil then norm!
FishWick replied to jayvwvr6's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Smoke under acceleration is indicative of bore wear. Guide wear only draws in oil on the overrun. Not wanting to be the prophet of doom. but you need to get a leakdown test done which will show up any iffy cylinders, chances are bore 1 or 6 could be scratched, very common the VR, especially the 2.9. Changing guide seals buys you time, it doesn't fix the problem. It's the guides themselves that ovalise with age and cause the seals to wear prematurely. Check plugs 1 and 6 for oil fouling. 1 is on the rear bank adjacent to the airbox and 6 is on the front bank adjacent to the battery. 1 and -
Milltek will do a 2.5" if you ask (at extra cost), otherwise it's the standard 2.25" bore. 2.5s, I've found, will give you gains at the top end, at the slight expense of bottom end torque.
-
The various trims are explained here:- http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/products/units/ V1s and 2s are 1000 and 1200 CFM, V9s are smaller physically and much quieter, 800cfm V9 should give more than 250hp if the engine is healthy. OBD2 adapts to charging much better than OBD1. OBD1 can cause headaches as knock control is crap, too slow and the tables don't have enough scope. You really need to inter or charge cool the inlet, or use water injection with neat methanol (60/40) or meth' spirits. All Vortechs are reliable if properly installed. There are reports of units covering 100,000 mi
-
Back pressure is not so much of an issue with chargers as they're crank driven (as you know), so you won't get exhaust back pressure trying to stall the turbine blades like you get with restrictive exhausts on turbo engines. CAT and MOT. Incorrect. You don't need one post 92 to pass the MOT. What you car must pass is the emissions, with or without cat and that's what the lambda is there for, besides, if you get a SupersSprint bypass like what I've got on mine, it looks like a sports cat and that's what you tell the MOT tester, it's a 100 cell sports Cat ;-) The absence of sulphur smells se
-
Yes the output does suffer when the charger gets hot, which is why we need to get water injection. You have a 10psi pulley mate. I'm running 8psi at 7000rpm, 4psi was just what I observed at a quick glance on some busy B roads, may have been a little higher but 4 is all I saw from the corner of my eye. The yanks generally use 7 or 8 grade plugs due to their climates and the gap needs to be 0.28 for the charger. In the UK, standard NGK platinum 5 grades seem to do the job but the 6s feel better. 7s and 8s can cause cold running hesitancy during the winter. NSR are taking my car in on Monda
-
Nerih, damn good figures mate, is that with 10psi? I wish mine was that good, got some problems with mine :-( As soon as the boost comes in (about 4000rpm) I can feel the engine holding back and it feels no where near the 290hp NSR quote for the 8psi stage 2. I thought it was underfuelling at first and there was pinking occasionally. So I fitted a Walbro uprated in-tank pump (good for 500hp) thinking the standard pump wasn't man enough but there's no difference. I also get plumes of black smoke at the top end on occasion, so I'm now thinking it's over fuelling...13mpg kind of hints at th
-
Yeah the big valve heads do make a worthy difference. I've seen a Rado with a Schrick, 248s, BV head (schrick), big throttle and AmD map make 230hp with 235lb/ft. Stealth made a 3.1 a while back with BV head etc and I think that kicked out about 250 bhp. I think 3.0 with FI is a better route than all motor and yeah, the ABT crank was well over
-
You're right, if my VF stage 2 is really producing 290bhp (I'll find out soon) then take it from me, it is most definitely enough on today's crowded roads ;-) That figure also means you don't have to spend a fortune beefing up the drivetrain. Once you get to 250-300bhp in a relatively lightweight hatch, to get a night/day difference on top of that, you need to go up in 100hp increments.....which equals serious
-
Anorak, thanks mate. Think I'll look into that! Yeah the LSD can be a pain, if you floor it round a wet roundabout and hit a patch of diesel, you'll be understeering off with both wheels spinning before you know it, but it's good fun all the same! 95% of the time though, an ATB is superb. OK the Aquamist, I emailed them today to get group buy prices. They haven't come back yet but I'm looking at supplying us with System1 and Digital Display dash 2 systems. The RRP for those two is
-
VR gearbox and clutch can take 300bhp quite easily and reliabley. If you're going much over that, might be worth considering some upgrades. Getting the diff pins out and replaced with bolts is pretty much essential imo, the last thing you want is a diff pin to let go hard on the acceleration, which will write the whole box off.
-
misfire loss of power, not coilpack HELP!!!
FishWick replied to lee101's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Sounds like the cam sensor to me, you lose 30hp when that dies. -
Be wary of Milltek systems, the one I had on my Corrado didn't fit very well (had to go to the factory to get it rectified) and it boomed loudly at 70mph when hot. The stainless quality isn't too hot either. I'd personally go Magnex or SuperSprint over Milltek any day. The VAG systems aren't that bad to be honest, they may be quiet but that doesn't mean they don't flow well and they're built to last. I still have the original one on, which is still leak free after 11 years and 120,000 miles.
-
That's a good price for those. Can you get cast Mahles for a 3.0 build? Seems to be conflicting advice on that. What about cranks from the states, do they do any? ABT used to do a nice forged steel one which with the right combination of rods and pistons could achieve 3.3. With the standard rods, a 3mm head gasket and standard pistons shaved 1mm (not ideal as it throws the cam timing - need to get verniers) gives you 3.1 I love VRs, so much you can do with them :-)
-
I've always loved turbo'd VRs, they sound amazing, I prefer that method to supercharging to be honest, but the chargers are easier to implement and I don't like the idea of running a turbo with an IC. I guess the Stage 1 is a light pressure kit and shouldn't put too much stress on the engine. The VR is good for a safe 300hp before you need to start strengthening the internals, so stage 1 sounds ideal, and if it spools up quickly, then there shouldn't be any undue strain on the rods. That's why chargers are kinder, they're more linear and don't exert any sudden forces onto the rods. But as a
-
Does the Racelogic only work in 1st gear like other systems, using the rear ABS sensors as a reference point? Is it a power cut TC or ABS? Just thinking the ATE ABS pump in the VR isn't the greatest for use as a TC method, it's a bit on the slow side but sounds like yours is working OK, however it works The only thing first gear TCs can't control is spin when change from 2nd to 3rd, or can they? I've been looking at the DTA P8Pro, which aswell as TC, LC etc, it also has other useful stuff like Water injection and NOS controllers built in
-
To change to a 3.68 diff, you're looking at a box off job and if that comes off , you may aswell add a quaife and replace worn synchros and bearings. As a ball park, to rebuild my box with a quaife, all new synchros and bearings, 3.68 diff and shaft, new VAG clutch etc cost
-
Couldn't shake off a 205 convertible? The biggest engine they came with was a 1600 cc 115bhp unit. A charged VR scoffs Imprezas with ease, let alone flabby french convertibles! Don't forget the charger isn't boosting until 4000rpm and it pulls relentlessly from there until 7K...if fuelled and setup correctly, so he might have caught you out in 5th at less than 4000rpm. Dump the stupid 3.3 diff and fit a 3.68 from a Corrado G60 and give the VR the gearing it deserves, and then see what the 205 can do, assuming it's standard. The VR was always more a cruiser than GTI, with proper geari
-
The lambda probe monitors Oxygen levels in the exhaust. Too much oxygen = weak mixture, ECU enrichens. Too little oxygen = rich, ECU weakens. That's why AF meters go mad on part throttle. They're basically showing the ECU's attempt at keeping the a/f mixture at stoich (ideal 14:1 mix). You need a very fast ECU to keep up with lambda signals and luckily Bosch M2.9 Motronic is, just, but it's slow with knock control, but that's another story. At wide open throttle, the lambda is ignored and preset fuelling parameters kick in. The later 4 and 5 wire 02 probes need preheating before they can
-
Wrong. If you want superb ride comfort and sublime handling, look no further than H&R 'comfort' coilovers and Eibach ARBs. I've tried numerous setups of numerous VWs over the years and that is, in my opinion, the best you can get for a daily usable car. Let's break it down. Why H&R's coilovers, or any coilovers, aren't they hard and unforgiving? H&R comforts are valved and sprung specifically for each application. There's no bump, rebound or damping adjustment, H&R designed the kit to simply not need it, thanks to car specific parameters. None of this 'one kit fits all' nonsen
-
Yes the lambda will flick up and down rapidly on part throttle when it's heated up, that's normal. At wide open throttle the lambda is ignored and the ECU chucks in fuel from the static maps. You should see 0.7V on your A/F when booting it at full throttle. You can check the lambda by plugging a high impeadence meter from ground to the white wire of the 02 loom and looking for a constantly fluctuating voltage. If it's stuck solid at 0.45V when it's hot, it's dead.
