FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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It wasn't clear in your post if you were unhappy with the Schimmels or VF, or both, but now I know. You're the only person I know of who's had that kind of problem with them and after reading your posts, if you speak to them in the same manner, I'm not surprised they blanked you. I was implying the VF mounts are schitt. The front is just about acceptable as it's isolated by the cross member bushes, but the rear and trans ones are horrid. Chargecoolers are a waste of time are they? So why is it mine makes the same power as yours at 1 bar of boost as yours does at 1.3 bar then? Why is it that
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Yeah, 20psi will do that ;-) Do you get Euro ECUs from C2 quite regularly? I find they're not very communicative, but maybe thats' because I'm not a regular customer. How quick do they do it? Are UK OBD2 ECUs the same as German / Euro ECUs? Everyone raves about C2 42lb code. I want to try it for myself :-)
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You'll be needing a spacer on the R32 as 11:1 Compression is too high for forced induction, but if the 12V bottom end is anything to go by, then yes, the R32 should be good for 500hp.....with ARP head and rod bolts obviously. I've read lots of cases of turboed R32s failing in catastrophic ways, mainly EIP fitted and supplied conversions, so let's hope the Rotrex is more reliable. Storm's has been going a while now, so it would seem that way. The ultimate forced induction R32 engine, in my opinion, comes from these guys :- http://www.hgp-turbo.de/vw/r32.html Everything is OE or better quality.
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The real gains to a VR6's breathing come from larger valves and boring out the exhaust runners. Everything else won't really make much difference. If you imrove the head with larger valves, better cams and flowed exhaust runners.....I would recommend a larger plate throttle to match.
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The duplex chain isn't two seperate chains as that comment implies, it's just double width for extra strength. Twice as wide, twice as strong......but double the noise, double the wear, double the weight and double the cost (to produce), hence why V downgraded to a simplex chain I suspect. The duplex chain was part of the engine's original design and pretty overkill, so not really necessary any more. As for advantages swapping to a single cam chain, I can't think of any!
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C2 have corrected the lambda issue. The C2 code is good if you're willing to import a US ECU, or send them yours. I and several other UK customers have had no problems at all with the Schimmels. VF are nothing to do with Schimmel performance and I wouldn't use them on my car. What are you trying to imply by mentioning that?
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18 psi code for OBD1 and OBD2 has been around for ages and works OK with turbos. Those issues were from a while ago when Vince was still working on the Vortech maps. He's getting there and almost perfected it. I find that my view of "no problems" differs from other people's though.
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It'll hold mechanically..... only a lack of fuel will destroy it ;-)
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C2 Motorsports for your managment being as your US based ;-) SPA manifold should work, but the ATP one is FAR, FAR better made.
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VR6 SCHRICK INTAKE MANIFOLD & 268 CAMS POWER GAIN???
FishWick replied to teacherboy21's topic in Engine Tuning
Yeah that's normal behaviour. The Schrick is designed to move the torque further down the rev range, not increase peak power. It's the cams and throttle body that give the extra power, although not a huge amount extra torque. -
VR6 SCHRICK INTAKE MANIFOLD & 268 CAMS POWER GAIN???
FishWick replied to teacherboy21's topic in Engine Tuning
Usually around 220hp with a big bore throttle body, and around 210 torque. -
Your engine will barely idle with 42cc injectors :-) 42lb you must mean, or 440cc? 400hp easily achievable with that, but it will depend on what management you use etc.
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Hi mate. I have no knock sensing. When on the dyno I have a copper tube bolted to the rear knock sensor hole and we put a stethoscope down there and listen for det. Forged pistons have a similar resonance to detonation, so you have to trust your judgement and press on with the timing :-) I run 25-27 degrees on boost and up to 37 degrees off boost. I use MAP sensing for boost compensation which at 1 bar boost takes 5% timing out, at 1.1 bar it takes -7% out and at 1.3bar, it takes out -10% and so on. I removed my head after 8000 miles of this timing level and the piston crowns are perfect
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UK ECUs can't run a OBD2 C2 chip unfortunately, but sending them a UK ECU is not a bad idea though. Not sure about their OBD1 code and UK compatibility though. That's not good your IC pipe blowing off! A turbo can spin itself to death if you don't realise and keep flooring it! Good that yours has been reliable. I think they are generally as VR Turbos have been around for years. The US and Germany have perfected it. Sometimes you just get bad luck and things break unexpectedley.
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First time I've heard that! Vince is one of the most honest dyno operators I know and his rollers consistently give standard outputs on standard engines, except over winter where cold air improves the power a little, even on stock motors. All rolling roads are optimistic since the output at the flywheel has to be calculated and the levels of optimism always boil down to the operator's creative calculating and the owner's expectations / beliefs. People down on power always say the rolling road is inaccurate. Quoting measured, not corrected, wheel hp figures would remove any doubt.
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What problems have I experienced so far? Nothing bad really. Mine's been turboed a year now and I've done approx 10,000 miles. The only problems I've had have been plain bad luck! Turbo 1 - Lasted 8000 miles, then something got sucked into it and wrecked the compressor blades, but it still made boost and worked OK! Turbo 2 - Was dodgy from the factory. Turbo 3 - Seems OK at the moment, done 600 miles on it with no probs so far. The SPA Turbo manifold gave me grief with cracking and bad port alignment, but I had one modified and that's been OK since. So nothing drastic really. The car was o
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I've tried Schrick 268 cams and Schimmel Performance 263 cams and I prefer the 263s. There's more to cams than just the number though unfortunately. Lift, duration and overlap all come into play. The 263s are 20 degrees more duration than stock and +1mm extra lift and very short overlap. They're designed for turbos to achieve maximum cylinder filling but the torque off the line and the midrange is noticably stronger than the 268s, which I felt were more for extending the rev range than improving cylinder filling. Just my 2 p worth
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No worries chap! Strictly wanted to be the sole distributor but they can't be if Schimmel supply to other firms :-)
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Yeah it'll say "3.0 bar" (or "4.0 bar") on the side of it next to the part numbers. Thanks, I know enough to get me by mate :-)
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Reliability comes from the quality of the components and installation rather than the method of force feeding. For 100% reliability, get a second car!
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The pressure is stamped on the side of the regulator mate....
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I run 83mm pistons too and previously ran 83.5mm JEs, which gave 2967cc, and that was fine with turbos. 85mm bore? With 1 and 6 having the smallest cooling jackets and least bolt clamping area, there's no way I'd chance that and I've not seen any 85mm pistons for a VR6 either, they would need to be custom. I doubt the regular head gasket would work either....
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"strictlydubs" on the Edition 38 forum are currently advertising their turbo kit @ £2,495 IIRC. It's based around the SPA turbo manifold and a Garrett GT32, which has the older journal bearing centre section, but with more modern GT housings and wheels. Nice turbo. Their kit also comes with the Schimmel Short runner which is without doubt the best log manifold for the VR6, so the quality of this kit is good. I don't personally like the SPA turbo manifold and there's no mention of a downpipe. There are better solutions out there, such as this ATP VR6 manifold and downpipe :- http://www.at
