FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Best tappets = INA Best cams = Depends on what you're trying to achieve. Cams on their own will give comparitively small gains, unless used on a turbo engine where the right grind can give exceptional results. If you want more top end, 268s are good. If you want a bit more midrange, 248s. Before you replace the tappets, I would replace the serpentine belt and tensioner first because when worn, they can exhibit a clattering / tapping noise also.....as can old, tired injectors. To test, run the engine with no belt for a short while.
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I never wrote those down because I had a 4 motion sump on before the R32 one. The dealear won't have any trouble finding them on ETKA.
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Sorry chaps, forgot to mention......scrap the R32 dipstick and guide tube, they're not much use on the 12V. Instead you need the 24V 4 motion guide tube and dipstick.
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K Jet CIS pumps will work to a point, but they are primarily high pressure rather than high flow. Turbo engines need flow / volume aswell as pressure and stability. As the pressure on the fuel regulator increases through boost, the pump has to work harder and flow reduces proportionally to pressure demanded. A K jet pump of the Golf GTI variety may not keep up at high flow demands. A UR Quattro pump may stand a better chance, but why bother when a £90 Walbro intank 255lph will support over 500hp? Even slots into the Stock pump housing. Couldn't be easier or neater. I've used 255s for
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The instructions are a bit pony too :-)
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In simple terms' date=' the fuelling is proportional to the air mass detected by the air flow meter. So long as the MAF has enough flow, it will work fine. If you're using a standalone, it's very easy. Certain elements of tuning are linear and can use standard maps which will work fine. And if you run full closed loop with enough adjustment authority, then it will autotune itself. Think of an old SU carburettor. More air drawn in = more fuel and ignoring the complications of timing for the moment, it really is as simple as that. A good in car fuel pressure guage is wise too because fuel pr
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I'd consider paying £800 if they could demonstrate some tangible improvements over a cast manifold to justify the cost....and reassurance that it would fit perfectly. If not, stick to the tried and tested VR6 Turbo manifolds that are already available.
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044 is an external pump and not everyone wants the aggro of that route. If you read on the Vortex, you will see 50/50 views on 044s and Walbros. They both fail. If you want the best, then don't use either. Use SX or Aeromotive.
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I use a Walbro intank for my VR6 Turbo. It's a Cosworth spec one (sits lower in the tank) which Stealth sell. it's good for about 500hp.
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Stealth Map Rotrex chargers aswell.... and very well from what I've seen.
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Tubular manifolds pulse the turbo better, especially if it's an equal length one. The gains won't be massive, so most people stick to cast ones as they're cheaper and often stronger.
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Yeah still haven't got round to installing my AVCR yet. Need to figure out a nice way to install the stupidly loud solenoid to stop vibrations. It's not plug and play though, as in "I want to set and hold 15psi of boost". You need to figure out the duty cycles with lots of trial and error. Good kit though.... As for multiple maps, no real need with petrol. Best example would be an automatic switching map if using E85 bio fuel as it needs to run much richer (9:1 AFR).
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They look good to me. There are only about 10 [good] cam grinders in the world who grind for loads of different makes. The same grinder for instance does DSR's, DRC's, Schimmel's etc etc. Ignore the make. The profile, overlap and lift are the important bits and those 262s look ideal to me. Schimmel's 263 cams are also a very good profile.
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Any one using a rising rate fpr to power their vr6t
FishWick replied to antone28's topic in Engine Tuning
Yes I used one (a Begi) and it was fine. You'll need a MAF voltage clamp though. Split Second racing in the US sell a good one for about £40, but if you're a whizz with electronics, it's just a simple zener diode based circuit IIRC. I personally ran about 10psi with no problems (OBD2) but I know of people running double that, with no issues. So long as you have a good fuel pump, high pressure fuel hose and know what you're doing, there's nothing wrong with this method. Just be mindful that you'll be running ignition timing for a normally aspirated VR6, so the knock sensors will be taking -
US cyl heads have a secondary air injection port at the front between cylinders 4 and 6. That is the only difference (mechanically) between US and Euro 12V engines. 2.8 and 2.9 parts are all interchangable. The 2.9 was cobbled together to get the Corrado up to 145mph for marketing purposes. I prefer the 2.8 engine myself, in OBD2 flavour.
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Yeah it'll be fine. Standard block with a head spacer is generally OK with around 500hp.....
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See if C2 have a good OBD1 map you can try. There's a C2 UK chap on this very forum. Alternatively, if you're good with wiring and understand engine mapping, you can buy a second hand DTA P8 Pro for about £400 and I can send you half a dozen maps to try.
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GT35R every time ;-)
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Good points, well made ;-) Pectel is a bit on the expensive side for 99.9% of people's pockets though, as is MoTeC. Although I do wonder what percentage of these ECUs is just window dressing. All the cheaper ECUs have the same core functions to run an engine. Well, as they say, the proof is in the pudding, so I'm going to have to try the C2 code when I get back from my holiday and see how it compares to my standalone maps :-)
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I run standard shells and rods in mine mate. It's generally acknowledged that the standard VR6 engine with a spacer can cope with 450-500hp no problem. HGP are a slightly different kettle of fish to the norm. They are very particular and the installations are OE quality. I guess they're just protecting themselves by fitting uprated shells, but they're not essential.
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You will get varying opinions in the tuning game mate, but what is right for one man, may not be right for you. Yeah I use a standalone and I'm happy with it. The car is my daily transport and if I believed half of what was said about standalones when I was in the same position you are now, I wouldn't have bought one! It's perfectly drivable. Idles and starts (both hot and cold) as stock and is fantastic on boost. Standalones can and do get a bad reputation because as C2 said, the ECU is only as good as the map that's put inside it. So many standalone tuners do very basic maps, because
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HGP do some uprated big end bearings..... www.hgp-turbo.de
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No worries. I agree it's not cheap, but I've always been one to experiment with new stuff..... even if just for the shear hell of it :-) Well it's all in and running. The only mod I had to make was to cut a small section out of the plastic baffle where the dipstick passes through because the R32's dipstick sits 1.5" closer to the gearbox than the 12V's. Strange. They probably moved it for intake manifiold clearance reasons? Anyway, the R32 dipstick and guide tube are different too, due to the sump being a different shape, but the capacity is still 6 litres. The pump is a little whiney when c
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OBD2 maps very well, but has limitations. For the power you're aiming for, it's fine. Most people go with the C2 software and most are pleased with it. If your local place recommend an AEM ECU (AEM are very good), then make sure the required skill and knowledge to install and map it are local to you aswell.
