FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yeah I had that with OBD2 aswell mate, and with the standard throttle too come to think of it. Vince said it was the ECU coming off open loop and into closed lopp whilst there still being a lot of air going in from the charger. I suppose that's the advantage of a turbo, as you as you let off the gas, the boost goes into -Hg straight away, whereas as a charger is still boosting as the engine slows down which gives a bit of part throttle snatching..... One thing we've learned during the supercharger journey is no two engines are the same!! Some exhibit these problems and others don't, which is
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Cadguy, are you running a bored out throttle mate? That can also cause the surging you describe. Basically it's the map coming off open loop and going back to lambda. I take it the surging is OK at full throtte? It's just coming down again and part throttle? Did I ever recommend a standalone to you? PMSL....you're going to hit me if I say that again :-) Hmm, I wondered how long it would be before the Rotrex would be mentioned in comparison to the "noisy rattley toy" :-) It's quick is because it boosts lower than the Vortech and has less parasitic load....and it's making like 10psi minim
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Good man!! If you don't have any joy with the Haltech, MoTeC do amps aswell mate and they are pretty much the Rolls Royce of Engine electronics. Keep me posted chap as I can't run the MSDs yet as I'm running the new engine in, so need a reliable spark for 1500 miles or so. You probably don't want to hear this, but Bill Schimmel says the stock pack is good for 40psi of boost..... but that's not to say we can't enjoy the improvements off boost aswell ;-)
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But Walbros don't sit in the pump housing properly and you run out of fuel when the guage is on 1/4. Why would you want 10 AFR? That's the American way of doing it. They like black plugs and blasting fuel in..... they don't have to pay £1 a litre. 12 to 12.5 is best.
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That is true in a lot of cases....of abused examples. Not had any trouble from my Corrado in 4 years that wasn't self inflicted by my modding. Prior to that it never missed a beat as a standard car. To a degree. Yes you can mirror the Corrado's geometry settings' date=' but it's lower to the ground physically (regardless of suspension height), so centre of G is a lot lower than the Golf's. Yep, OBD2 2.8 is the pick of the VR engine crop imo. It's a peachy motor. I don't like the 2.9 at all in standard guise.... that is the bit about Corrados that is over rated. Don't forget the Corr
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Cheers Tom. My preference is an external amp because the DTA gets mighty hot if you use it's own coil amps and as it's in the glovebox, that could be a problem longterm. The other problem with Standalones and coils that are an unknown entity is that when a coil pops, it tends to take a coil (or injector, or both!) driver with it. The VW ECU being offboard amped has a good level of resilience there, stick another coil on and off you go. So I need to get this 100% first as I can't afford to have the ECU sent off every month for new coil drivers. I would like to try one of your amps if possi
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30V? You mean 24V ;-) Being as your from the US of A, your best bets by far are EIP tuning or Schimmel Performance. Both have the required experience of turboing the 24V motor.....although my preference is Bill Shcimmel as his turbo experience is well worth paying for.
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Cheers for bringing this upgrade to our attention in the first place Tom, shame you can't pursue it though :-( What do you think the problem is? The coils themselves or the way they're fired? I would have thought the GM cars they were designed for would exhibit the same issues if the coils themselves were dodgy? I have the same thoughts as you, I'm reluctant to run the MSDs if they're unreliable. If it's just the amplifier that's the problem, would something like this work? - http://www.haltech.com/ignmodule.htm Cheers
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Yeah I got a mallory variable ballast resistor, 0.7 ohms when cold and 1.2 ohms or something when hot to use with mine but I won't need it with the standalone. I would prefer the remote amp though to stop the ECU running so hot.....
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Harmonised import duty on engine parts is 2.6% Even taking into account VAT, shipping and import, it's cheaper to turbo a VR sourced from the states!
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He he.... well these were a good purchase They come with long bolts too and a rubber spacer per pack seal the gap between coil and mount. They do make for a very bulky coilpack though, LOL! I reckon turning the bracket upside down is the way to go.
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I think he's found the cold starting maps now, so the injector size is no longer an issue. My mate is leaving his OBD1 Stage 2 Corrado with Vince to play with until the cold running has been sorted. Vince WILL sort it, he just needs time.
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I've ordered those 8870 bases aswell mate. I wasn't too keen on the idea of poking spades into the Coils in case they vibrated out. It's going to be one huge assembly though, LOL!
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About 5 bar when cold and 2.5 - 3 when hot About 6-7 bar at 4000-5000rpm cold, 4-5 bar when hot.
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where to get these parts for turbo conversion...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
IBIVR can supply all those items. £250 £70 £40 (IIRC) -
Methanol....& .......Water v posh water --- questions
FishWick replied to rodney's topic in Engine Tuning
Methanol is different to ethanol and it's the former you need. Only Holts screen wash seems to still be methanol based. Some legislation came in about methanol in screen wash a while ago and since then a lot of brands have stop using it. Yes use de"ion"ised water (you can try and de "iron" water if you like, LOL!) and not tap water or the resultant scale and lime deposits will eventually clog the jet, but if you've got the DDS3 gauge, you'll know instantly when the water isn't getting through. 50% mix? Far too much methanol. 20 - 25% is all you need. -
MSD recommend 2000ms coil time for the GM towers.
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I think the main problem with the MSDs run from the VW amplifier is you can't adjust the coil on time. If it's too long for the MSD coils, they'll eventually burn out. The advantage of standalone ECUs is you can reduce the coil on time because with a stronger spark across a bigger gap, you can get away with a shorter spark duration. But in terms of a GB, once Tom has signed off his amplifier, I'm sure he will then be in a position to sell complete MSD coilpack kits. In the meantime, it's pretty easy to get the coils and HEI lead ends from Summit and the bracket from Gruvenparts and then add
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Yeah standalones aren't cheap and some of them have issues and limitations, but in terms of bolting one in, doing a map for it and off you go, I've had good luck with the DTA P8Pro. I still think a larger MAF is the way to go on the Standard ECU. I don't know enough about what's involved in getting it to work though. Vince has said he's cured the MAF clipping problem with the standard bore one, but I think the main problem that remains is the cold starting. Partly due to the red tops being too big and partly because it's not clear in the map where the cold start settings are as it's all r
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Yeah this is him -> Thing is though, the 8870 is fed by the DIS 2 digital ignition box, so the modules themselves probably don't do the amplifying....they just hold the coils. Can get a bit pricey if you get the DIS 2 aswell :-) I have emailed MSD to get an idea from them what current the amplifier needs to give and the best coil-on-time duration in microseconds. Unfortunately I need to move on this and Tom isn't on here often enough to answer our queries.
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Sorry, not off hand chap. I'd need to look into it!
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The max speed for a new charger is 4000rpm for 500 miles. It's not cast in stone, it's precautionary to make sure belt tension and alignment are OK etc before opening the taps. There are only two gears and a couple of bearings inside it, so noting to 'run in' as such. Yep standard map and injectors fine for the charger below 4K......although I drove mine up to 5.5K with no problems ;-)
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Can't go wrong with the OE red ones, built to last and they have full length metal plug shrouds. Cheaper ones only have half length ones and not quite as robust. As for plugs - NGK BKR5EU or BKR5EUP are fine, but don't pay dealer money, get them from sparkplugs.co.uk I find the OE 5 heat range to be a little hot personally, a cooler 6 is better and I had good luck with the NGK BKR6EIX iridium, really good plugs. Golf 16V Bosch "Yytrium" plugs from GSF work well too, as do NGK V power copper race plugs. The VR isn't all that fussy to be honest, but Tom's MSD coil modification is where the rea
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The 2.9 TB uses a two stage linkage to mimic the ramp. The butterfly opens slowly for the first 10% of travel and then opens quicker. The idea of this is to speed up gas flow at low rpms and idle. The ramp in the 2.8 throttle does the same job but obviously has the ramp there all the time, where as the 2.9 one is 'straight through' on wide open throttle. By all means try it, it won't hurt, but I bet you end up going back to the standard throttle again as it blunts bottom end torque :-)
