FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yes thanks :-) We're quibbling for the sake of quibbling. We're better than this ;-) I do agree that baffling is better for track cars, and also much cheaper than dry sumping.....but I don't and won't track my car, so the stock sumps are fit for purpose for the kind of driving I do. If I were to get involved in track racing, it would not be in a VW, that's for sure ;-) I don't know what happened to the MK4s you saw, but I've done 16K with an ally sump and not had any fears of whacking it during it's normal day to day use. I'm lowered approx 50mm. If I did find myself in a situation where
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Yeah short runners are best for forced induction because once you're on boost, all the low rpm theories and practices go out the window :-) The VAG 1.8T is short runnered, but it has a very quick spooling turbo to counter any potential low rpm lag. Another thing with short runners is the intake plenum volume is much smaller than stock, so can affect brake servo performance, but again, in practice, I didn't find that to be the case with the SPTurbo intake. And yep, moving the throttle to the front reduces heatsoak in traffic and also boost pipework length.
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Last time I spoke to him (back in September some time) he said he no longer has anything to do with VRTs and other stuff, so I'm not sure he'll be back on here. I am still looking into a reliable coilpack solution though. The MSDs didn't work out. They seem to fail quite quickly if run from a 3rd party amplifier.
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:-) LOL! That would only be about 5 minutes worth !
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How about a Bora 4 Motion? £4K for the car, plus a few K for the turbo stuff and you've got a 650hp 4WD street sleeper! :-)
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I ran the Schimmel Short runner on my engine naturally aspirated before I went turbo and it was no slower than stock. Better at the top end actually. In theory, a short runner slows the gas speed down, which affects low rpm torque.... but in reality it's not always the case. Don't judge until you've tried it ;-)
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Yeah that would do it.
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Leave it mate, too complicated. TBH, modern turbos and management systems have all but killed lag.
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8.5:1 forged pistons - 11psi.
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Yeah I've been looking into 24V engines for my next project. R36 is nothing like the R32. Different head completely as it's FSi, plus the weird block Lizard mentioned..... and the R36 has 89mm bore, playing the R32's 84mm. You can't bore the R32 much beyond a 2mm over bore as the wall thickness is still an issue as it is with the 12V. That only gives you about 3342cc. Hardly worth it, especially if forced fed. Then I looked at sticking the R36 crank into the R32 block. No good. Even with a 2mm over bore, still only gives 3363cc. Best bet imo..... Stick a GT35R on the R32 lump. It'll
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Yes. Why does the 1.8T have 3 intake valves? To maximise cylinder filling :-) Exhaust gases are pumped out of the head by the pistons and straight onto a restrictive turbine, so you don't need to worry about exhaust valve size too much, maybe +1mm bigger......but.....if you use Ferrea inconel exhaust valves, they will better withstand the heat over the stock sodium filled valves. On the intake, +1 or +2mm to help cylinder filling along with port matched intake and low overlap cams. Personally, I would only use a big valve head if you have increased capacity. My +1mm big valve head with 263 l
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Yes, the R32 sump is totally different to that 2.8 sump pictured. Those 4 vains in the 2.8 sump are baffles. Small, yes, but baffles all the same. Look at the angle of them. If you corner hard, the baffles direct the oil to the oil pump's pick up head, which sits about 3mm off the bottom of the pan..... so you REALLY have to be thraping the pants off the car to run the crank dry. The R32 sump has a plastic windage tray in it aswell as baffles and an oil condition sensor. It won't bolt straight ontoto a 12V. 2.8 sump is the only one that does. Those sumps are tougher than they look ;-)
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Chargecoolers. Pouring cold water onto hot metal is always going to be more effective than blowing on it. Intercoolers are more popular because they're cheaper and simpler. Personally, I'd prefer an intercooler with water spray, but there's just no way to fit one neatly to a Corrado.
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Didn't say it was. I suggested it as a cheaper alternative.
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I know where Mark's coming from.... it's an old 'rounding up' thing they used to do years ago, and still do actually.... 2861 is closer to 2.9 than 2.8, so it's classed as a 2.9. 2931 is closer to 2.9 than a 3.0, but people still call it a 3.0? It's still a 2.9 imo. 2967 is closer to 3.0 than a 2.9 and can technically be 'rounded up' to a 3.0 I guess, but in my book, 3 litres is 3 litres, so 84mm pistons required ;-) Where it gets complicated is if you have exactly 2850cc, what the feck do you size it as then?! 2.85? :-)
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The BMC is the only filter I've tried that works. Stealth dyno'd a VR6 with a BMC years ago and found 7hp from just the filter. It works best without a cold air feed on it imo.....
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I wouldn't spend all that money on an AVCR personally. Why not just get a TurboSmart Boost Tee to see what kind of boost you want, only about £45. It's a proper gated valve and fit and forget. My DTA has full PWM control of an amal valve to control boost (as per those Eboost and AVCR controllers) and it was just silly. I turned that off and went back to the Boost Tee. Simple is best ;-) You don't need to touch the map. If you're using the C2 440cc software, it will be good for up to 20psi of boost. You will need a boost gauge though.....and a wideband AFR guage not a bad idea too, or EG
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Cheapest option I can see is to replace your girlfriend with one more local to Torquay :-) I get slightly concerned about people with thirsty cars who sit down and calculate how much fuel they burn in a year. An obvious question then? Why by a car, sorry, 2 cars that burn a lot of fuel if fuel costs are a PRIMARY concern of yours? It's like buying a 10,000 watt stereo and then worrying about the electricity bill. Buy a 100W stereo. I appreciate circumstances change but if the change is going to cost you so much cash, the obvious and cheapest solution is to get rid of what is costing you t
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3L doesn't exist. You will get 2.9 and a bit. You need 84mm pistons to get a 'true 3.0' at 3003cc. 83mm gives you 2931cc and 83.5mm gives you 2967cc. The latter size does safely give you 494cc per cylinder, which is quite handy as 500cc per pot is considered the optimum by BMW :-) 85mm.... on a 12V, no way. VW did it with the R32 block, but that is a complete new casting and nothing like the 12V block. Personally I would stick to 83mm max.
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I ran a GT3071R on mine. You can roll into it at 2500rpm and it will full boost at 2800ish pm. I found traction to be a nightmare with that turbo. I now run a GT3582, which full boosts at 3500rpm, which is more useful for a road car as it doesn't spin the wheels so easily in the lower gears. I would say the GT3076 is the best compromise between the 2, or a GT35R with a T04E compressor housing (2" outlet) would work well too. If you want to know about what the turbo numbers mean, believe it or not, this and last month's Redline magazine has a good guide on turbos. A/R on the hot side determin
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Yep, that's true. I found that out myself yesterday when I was at Stealth. BUT.... the Elring ones sold as 'Elring' have a thin purple/red coating on them. The ones they supply to Reinz don't appear to have a coating and the Permatex bonds to it better. One thing is for sure..... if the head is not flat alongside cyls 1 and 2, it'll never seal. Use some JB weld or get it alloy filled and machined back.
