FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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I like 263 low overlap cams. Good compromise between performance and low rpm refinement. Good for turbos too. 268s will work also providing they are low overlap or you could blow all your boost out the exhaust valves :-) More care required when mapping turbos to big cams aswell, but it's doable. I'd leave the ring gaps as they are. NOS or Turbo, either way, your insurance will be crippling. I'm an old bastard (34) and I pay £980 to insure my VRT (agreed 400hp limit) - no convictions, full NCD, 10K a year to and from work and kept in a garage. so I hate to think how much your insurance w
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Aye, turbos not cheaply reversible if you have a low compression block (forged pistons). If you use a spacer plate and keep all the stock parts, you can whip the turbo off and run it as standard again in a day. A turbo kit running chipped standard management is just as daily usable as a Supercharger. How 'drivable' and reliable it will be is purely down to the components chosen and how well they're installed & setup. Turbos have a broader spread of torque and make a lot more power, but it's all down to individual requirements and, of course, money! Also look at the Rotrex Supercharger as
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DIY car remap, ECU tuning, Millage corection software, £9.99 ebay???
FishWick replied to Phat VR6's topic in Engine Tuning
You can't remap OBD1 or OBD2 ECUs over the serial port. You need to do it on a new chip with emulation hardware and software. The rev limit is set on the chip and can't be changed via VAG-COM. No point raising it anyway as the standard cams are a limiting factor at the top end. I think that stuff is mainly for engines like the 1,8T which can be reprogrammed via the OBD2 port, hence the likes of Revo making a killing..... cause it's quick and easy :-) -
You can't bore out an OBD2 body. You can only remove the ramp and I would not do that personally. The throttle adaptation might struggle at idle if the air flow is changed too much. Golf and Corrado bodies have the same size throttle plate, but the Corrado one has no ramp in it. it's full bore. Having tried all VR6 throttle types and sizes, imo, they are more drivable as standard.
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Looks OK, but that GT35 isn't an 'R', so isn't ball bearing and it appears to have a strange exhaust housing on it..... The turbo is one item not to be skimped on. I'd stick to the tried and tested ones personally..... GT30R, GT35R, T3/T4, T04E etc etc
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Sorry, I meant to say spray the permatex on 4 sides, so both gasket parts on the grey side and both sides of the spacer. That should sort you out nicely. For what it's worth, Stealth had a problem with the last few engines they built with oil seeping out of the head above the pulleys. That's a common leak point, but using a Victor Reinz gasket (Stealth used Elring) and the permatex, mine's been fine, but a lot of it is down to prepping. A skimmed head and thoroughly sanded block face stands a better chance of a total seal.
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I'd do it on all 6 sides personally.... The thin metal headgaskets can leak when used on anything but perfect surfaces. The copper spray helps with that.
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The trouble with a lot of tuners is it starts as a hobby, word spreads and people want their products......but they often don't get the business side of it sorted and end up getting a bad reputation, despite the products being good. Customer service is vital. Too many companies these days think it is them doing us the favour, when it is the other way round.
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I've seen 3 Vortech V9 superchargers with oil leaks. Not sure if it's the same issue on your V2, but on the V9, there was a sealing issue with the blue anodised block that the oil feed connects to. It prevented the copper washers keying with the anodising and oil would leak out and down the side of the charger, collecting in a pool on the inner wing underneath. I got round that on mine by sanding off the blue anodising and it then sealed perfectly. Just something else to check!
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That's because it's in Jersey and does no miles. It's also only about 16,000 miles from new if I remember correctly! He also spends his life cleaning it..... even underneath as you can see :-)
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Yeah that put me off aswell. My car is a daily and 4 days off the road would be a bit inconvenient! The actual exhaust is made by Techtonics' date=' using Borla silencers. Borla have a good reputation in America and I can see why as their silencers are very quiet and flow very well. It's the quickest exhaust I've fitted as well, very easy! Magnaflow are good too and they have a UK outlet. Not sure you'd like my exhaust though as it has a plain round 2.5" tailpipe. Nothing fancy! I like that though as people following think it's a 1.8 Corrado or something and I've taken the VR6 badge
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To be fair I think H&S were pulling your chain Xyber to see if you were serious enough. Many people won't pay £600 for an exhaust, let alone twice that! I rang them last year for a quote on a turbo back 3" system and would have been £700, which considering how much of a pain in the arse downpipes and wastegate dump tubes can be, I thought that was very reasonable. Where they got £1200 from for a free flow cat and 2 box system is a mystery, I paid $149 (£75!!) for a 3" V banded Cat from ATP!! It may not be up to H&S's standards but I only need it for an hour once a year :-) Her
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I live just outside of Colchester, but work very close to the town centre. Yeah I'll have to try and make a meet sometime!
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H & S do have a good reputation but I think their prices need coming back down to earth. £1200 for a simple Golf exhaust is ridiculous. Plenty of off the shelf products will do the same job flow wise, which may not look as good or last as long, but you can buy 3 of them for the price of one H & S system! Just noticed you are in East Hill, Colchester Jon..... you're 5 mins from me. Never knew you existed until today. I think I'll have to pop down and check out what goodies you've got!
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I recommend you spend some time really cleaning up the block and head faces. Those metal gaskets are intolerant of mating surfaces that aren't 100% flat, especially around the non return valve adjacent to cylinder 1. I would strongly recommend using Permatex Copper Spray adhesive to seal the head gasket, which you can get from J & L Industrial supply - http://www.jlindustrial.co.uk/PMX-80697H/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html Turbo sizing. It's a big subject and the turbo choice is down to how you like your engines to behave. If you want torque very early in the rev range and are prepared
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The Pipewerx one looks to be an ATP clone, which is designed for LHD cars. You can use the ATP one though (and it's very good quality) but it takes some work. The proper RHD one is the "SPA turbo" manifold. There are few kicking around still but be warned, the quality of them can be atrocious. Check for poor port alignment and small cracks.
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The only Vauxhall I've owned is a 2.0 GLi Cavalier, so I'll declare myself out of the Vauxhall chat :-) 3rd gear breaking. Not sure why that gear breaks first. Physically it doesn't "look" any less robust than the other 4 cogs but it's hard to say for sure. I have a theory though because 3rd gear breaking is common to other powerful FWD cars too.... ....1st and 2nd gears are very short, low vehicle speed, low engine loads, the power spins away. 3rd gear on the other hand......vehicle speed not much faster and 3rd is taller which increases engine load and therefore the boost rockets and you
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That's good to know, cheers. Quiet is what I want! I'll give Blue flame a look sometime then although I'm in the south east if they have any fitting centres down here? Hayward & Scott are down the road from me actually, but they are ££££sss..... very good though. I've tried a GT3071R, GT3076R and a GT3582R - all with 0.82 exhaust housings - and my favourite so far is the GT3582. It doesn't kick in as low as the GT30s but with my other engine mods (83mm pistons, BV head, 263 cams etc) it does pull nicely at low rpms, but is mental from 3500rpm. The 3582 will do 40psi aswell, so
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No worries mate :-) My torque is much lower than yours :-) 320 - 337lb/ft from 4000 to 6600rpm. It's a big old GT35R and short runner, cams etc causing that. If I can get the turbo to spool sooner with a 0.63 exhaust A/R or a 3" exhaust (or just turn the boost up!), the torque will increase but to be honest it drives superb on the road so I'll stick with the 0.82 exhaust housing. With the 263 cams, at 4000rpm it feels a bit like a VTEC + Turbo, it's quite good fun :-) So your 3" system is quiet? Does it drone on the motorway when it get's hot? Is it full bore over the rear axle or crimp
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Is this the old fuel lines rubbing on the charger bracket thing? All I did was raise the hose clips on the rocker cover a bit. Simple :-)
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I haven't no. It didn't really sound of anything tbh! With a short runner intake the VR6 totally loses it's burble and with the turbo it's very quiet.....dare I say it sounds dull....like a 6 cylinder 1.8T, LOL! :-) It needs a 3" exhaust to sound good really..
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Wow, our little set to seems to have kick started this thread again! :-) I meant to say "In my opinion" the VF mounts are pants, didn't mean to start a war, sorry. Bill would recommend them, he's American and therefore does not care about refinement ;-) I prefer the Vibratechnics personally, but that's because they're rubber and don't shake my dash to peices. Chargecoolers v Intercoolers. The debate has been going on for years and years and then some more years. I think we can all agree that what makes us happy makes us happy. Air- air, much simpler and cheaper, and lighter.....but on
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The C2 42lb code with 4" MAF body should be good for 18psi, maybe a little more. If you have an OBD2 ECU, you'll need to send it off to C2, or import a US ECU.....but I'm not sure if the wiring is the same. I'm looking into myself.
