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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Bill Schimmel does 4" MAF housings, and indeed I have a spare one. I'll give it to Vince to experiment with on some customers cars. It's OBD2 only though. OBD1 MAFs need custom housings made up and takes a bit of chopping up of the MAF to remove the sensor. OBD2 sensors just unscrew. 4" MAFs should give up to 17psi support, but the MAF tables need remapping to suit. You guys speak like the MAF is the all seeing power and the cure to all your problems. I'm afraid it isn't. What sensors do you think the ECU falls back on when the MAF fails, which is frequently on forced induced engines?
  2. FishWick
    NO it isn't worth it. Rix, the 2.9 body DOES have a 2 stage linkage. Want me to take a picture of it and prove it to you? In my garage I have OBD1 Golf, OBD1 Corrado and OBD2 throttles, so I know what I'm talking about. Obviously things are different over there but I am speaking in the context of UK cars.
  3. FishWick
    I don't like the way the engine behaves with a bored out throttle. The ramp is there to speed up gas flow for midrange torque and smooth off air turbulance. I know the guy that makes the throttles for AmD and yep the throttle plate is 3mm bigger than standard. Englarging the plate is OK, but it's nice to keep the ramp there for a smoother driver.
  4. FishWick
    MSD do their own amplifiers too, just depends how soon you guys want to get it up and running.
  5. FishWick
    Get friendly with a tester and get them stick their probe up a 1.0 Lupo exhaust or something.....or say your car has an engine from a 92 car in it. Removing the cat does make the engine a little more responsive in the midrange, but it won't show much of a gain on the dyno plot.
  6. FishWick
    Interesting thread! OBD2 has the smallest bore throttle plate and body of all VR engines. OBD1 Golf and Corrado share the same size throttle plate, but the Corrado body deletes the ramp that the Golf body has in it, and is instead replaced with a 2 stage linkage. The reason the Corrado got these changes was for high rev gas flow. They wanted it to be the flagship VW in terms of top speed, so they made if flow more air at the top end and raised the rev limit. The 2.9 capacity means practically nothing in real terms over the 2.8, it's barely noticable, but was enough in combination with the afo
  7. FishWick
    Bummer. I've been using the Sytec pump which Stealth sell for about 90 quid and that's been superb so far, no shortage of fuel!
  8. FishWick
    Nice! I've got a mate with a 3.0 VR6 turbo Rallye, which he did years ago with Stealth. He ran into heat soak problems with the stock manifold, so fitted the Schimmel intake recently and that sorted him out nicely. Schimmel's chargecooler is brilliant. The one on his site is the same setup he uses on his 800+ hp cars. It's expensive, but was worth it for me as I didn't want the aggro of fitting an air-air intercooler. You should go for the newer Haldex ECU and O2M gearbox and that will take really big torque! I've been considering getting a cheap Golf 4Motion and dropping my engine into th
  9. FishWick
    LOL! Send Bill an email mate. AFAIK he does very little mechanically to his engines and he runs 40psi on some of them! But the issue is Americans don't build engines to do 100,000 miles though, so you need to bear that in mind if you want a long lasting road engine. For max possible HP with reliability, steel rods and crank will probably be needed but in terms of crank throw, I think the stock 90.3mm or whatever it is, is fine. Why not get a 3.2 stroker crank from these guys - http://www.eurospecsport.com/enginevr6.htm Torque monster with a turbo!!! Not very revvy though....
  10. FishWick
    Yeah me too. Got to wait for my car to come back from Stealth before I can play! Gavin, yes it's dead easy for woolly headed mitten wearers! Quite a few people find the engine is nicer with these coils. Idles better, better economy and better general drivability. I just like the fact the coils are cheap and easy to replace. £25 for a blown MSD coil once in a while, compared with £180+VAT for the VW one. It's a no brainer really. Just need to wait for Tom's coil amplifier.
  11. FishWick
    LOL, no, but I am a 'valued' customer though, which earns a few perks!
  12. FishWick
    Made a little progress on my MSD conversion.... All the bits you need. Some form of bracket to hold them, 3 x 8224 blaster coils, 1 x pack of HEI connectors and boots and a spare set of leads (if you want to keep the originals). First job is to snip off the Beru ends and crimp on the HEI ends. Some silicon dielectric grease helps get the boots on if you've got 8mm plug wire. If you use MSD's HEI connectors, all you need is a set of long nose pliers. The finished lead set and how they sit on the coils.... I can shove these straight onto my engine, but as Tom suggests, the rest of you wou
  13. FishWick
  14. FishWick
    Ah OK, I thought that was something you did more recently.
  15. FishWick
    You should have taken snaps of my R32 sump as that has the plastic baffles in it. It was also on Vince's counter last time I saw it! The sump is siliconed on in place of the gasket, not in addition to, although you could use the gasket instead of the silicon. The sump is nice and thick so should tap nicely for the oil return. Vince has my 1/2" pipe tap for doing that, which anyone is welcome to borrow.
  16. FishWick
    If anything the 24V sump looks a little shallower than the steel one. It's got some serious baffling in it, so should cure your cornering surge. You also need the 24V dipstick, dipstick tube and sump bolts. The whole lot is £110 from VW, which isn't bad considering the standard pressed Steel one + gasket is £75 and isn't baffled. Really early 24V sumps from 4 motions didn't have the oil condition sensor in the sump, but it seems VW no longer do them, so it's an R32 sump (with sensor) or nothing now, but you just leave the sensor disconnnected. The sump is silicon sealed to the block, so d
  17. FishWick
    Cheers Tom, that's pretty much what the Americans are finding with the VW amplifier aswell. I may still need one of your amps as I'm not sure what quality of coil amp the DTA has in it, but generally speaking the guys at DTA make their ECUs run with pretty much any coil and any injector, so I should be OK. I'll let you know the results ASAP and cheers for the plug gap recommendations, I was wondering about those.
  18. FishWick
    Twin turbos are better imo. Less complicated, less parasitic load and less noise. Drive a 335i or 335d and you'll soon forget compound charging. Both have a MASSIVE torque band. The Rotrex is small enough and boosty enough to do it probably, the Vortechs; no way. They don't do anything until 3500 rpm, depending on pulley size.
  19. FishWick
    I prefer the solid PTFE scrapers personally. You fit the supplied 'generic' VR6 one which won't have been clearanced, and then you wind the crank round by hand a few times and it 'cuts' it's own unique profile into the scraper. Sounds brutal but it's not, it's a sound method. Probably no real gains in a VR in the real world and there is a point to revving a VR to and past 7000rpm. Vr6 turbos are making power up there, lots of power, so a set of shrick valve springs will stop valve bounce. N/A VRs with lightened flywheels and 268s are happy to rev to and past 7K aswell. Personally, th
  20. FishWick
    OK well I've decided to get this sorted myself, but cheers for the heads up Tom! Bracket ordered from Gruvenparts. MSD coils, Ballast resistor and 8mm HEI lead ends ordered from SummitRacing.com 40KV MSD 'GM' Blaster coils - $44 each Pack of 9 8MM HEI lead ends - $12 Ballast resistor - $8 There are cheaper coils from Jegs.com but they're all pretty much the same. The black Jegs ones are an inch shorter than the MSDs though if packaging is a concern. If you are running a standalone ECU you won't need the OE amplifier module and possibly not a ballast resistor either. If you are running the sto
  21. FishWick
    What size ballast resistor are you using Tom?
  22. FishWick
    Shouldn't worry about it. What ever you do will give negligable gains. Don't forget that at 100mph you have cold air blasting through the intake at 1psi.....assuming you can provide an unrestricted path to the air filter. If that doesn't cool down the intake, nothing will.....other than water injection.
  23. FishWick
    Good info Bazmcc For the benefit of others, here's Gruven's site....plenty of other decent VR parts too - http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=category&category_id=60
  24. FishWick
    It is a bit old tech, but VW over engineered that particular engine, so is OK to blast from new. By low tech I mean pre unleaded days really, so anything before 1983. BL A series, O series, early Ford CVH.... that kind of motor really. Most 90s motors were made with tighter tolerances as to not destroy the cat with excessive fuel and oil consumption. These are the kind of motors you can run in hard and the 12V is in that category ;-)
  25. FishWick
    Cheers Tom I would like to try these, but I don't mind waiting for a premade kit actually. I believe the DTA does take care of the current limiting, and I can also run the coil on time anything from 1000 to 9000 microseconds. 3000 seems to work well on the stock pack along with some NGK copper V groove race plugs.....lovely spark.....but not as nice as those MSDs!! Keep us posted!
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