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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yeah I know exactly what you mean mate..... it's really strange as mine all lined up perfectly and the engine ran sweet. Maybe mine was wrong and yours is right? What you've said makes sense, so I suppose the only way to find out for sure is to fire it up and see what it runs like.
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The later stuff is better for wear. I think VW over estimated the force required to turn the cams on the original engines and when a diesel version was definitely canned, they dropped it down to a simplex chain.
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Sorry I missed your calls on Sunday mate, my phone has been playing up. Seems I spilt some thinners on it and the battery has melted itself onto the phone, so I need a new one. Oops. Anyway, that shouldn't be the case with the timing. As per my guide, using Tom's spacer + VW gasket, the timing was spot on afterwards. I have only once encountered the problem you got ages ago, but that was on a standard engine. The cam advance made it run hotter and was flat from 4000rpm. You might get away with it being as it's now force fed and lower comp. And likewise when using the thin metal gasket wit
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I know of one guy that put an EIP conversion on his Corrado and the EIP downpipe needed extensive modification to fit and the software wasn't very good either by all accounts. EIP used to have a bad reputation regarding their customer support aswell, but they may have improved that now. The stuff used in my conversion is proven and used by many people, particularly the manifold, which is very important. Tom (IBIVR) can supply those. It's a proper RHD manifold and extremely strong and flows well.
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ARP torque settings for Conrods, crankshaft and head...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Yeah the conrod ones kill your arms if you do it laying on your back.....12 bolts torqued up 3 times! See if you can do it in one go without dropping your arms for a rest :-) -
I hate to say it, but this is how centrifugal chargers are. They're very linear and without intercooling, you're not getting much of a torque increase and you're not getting the advertised boost until 7000rpm. So, for argument's sake, you and your mate both doing 80mph and you both floor it. At that point, your mate in the Corrado has the slight advantage as it's a more aerodynamic car and flows better at the top end than the OBD2 engine. And don't forget you were taking all the wind resistance aswell, so your engine was having to work harder. Try it side by side next time mate ;-) The MAI
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Yeah Vince reckons they're OK up to 500hp.
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Ignore oil temps, plug in VAG-COM and monitor the intake temp measuring block - that's the important temp. Charge/inter coolers more for keeping the torque consisent, especially over the summer, and power as we know is derived from torque, so if the torque drops due to heatsoak, so does your power. The air temp coming out of the charger will be about 70 degrees on boost and that is the coolest your intake temp is going to be with no intercooler. Water injection will get the temps down a bit. Heat soak is a big problem, I've seen 90 deg intake temps on mine with the charger after sat in tra
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Sorry, no. Kind of difficult to take pictures of turbo oil and water lines without a ramp. It's up to you where you drain back to, most people drain back to the sump, but I preferred to drain back to the block as it's neater and provides an obstruction free path back to the sump. It also gets round the driveshaft clearance issue too.
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Ah, good old "Heatons"..... They take too much energy to drive, hence their nickname in the trade. The one on the SL55 saps 100hp! It'd make an interesting project, but the gains won't be night/day different like a turbo.
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I use a BMC CDA on my VR Turbo and it flows plenty, so it's more than enough for a Supercharger.
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Startling is a good description!! When I cranked it over and ran it down the road for the first time, I was in a two fold state of shock: 1) that it actually worked - because of all the controversy surrounding the ballast resistor and stock ICM and 2) the HUGE improvement to drivability! For the same throttle inputs, the response is more immediate, smoother and a lot stronger! Awesome mod!! Cheers for recommending it! Timing....LOL, yeah I do miss OBD2's creature comforts, but the DTA has it's plus points too. I'm running close to the edge in the midrange boost timing as it is, 20 degre
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Will do mate. I took a picture of them this morning before setting off for work, but will need to upload it to my webspace so that i can link to it. Can't do that from work!! Seems like a really worthwhile mod. I might stock up on spark plugs and spare coils from the states whilst the dollar is still weak!
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Just resurrecting this thread because I fitted my MSD coils today. I ran them straight from the DTA management with no ballast resistor. I chanced it because DTA build a lot of resilience into their ECUs and can run a wide variety of coils and injectors no problem. I'm running them at 2500ms with Brisk D12S silver spark plugs and good quality 8mm silicon leads. Plugs gapped at the stock 00.28". With no changes to the map what so ever, I fired it up and it started a lot quicker than it normally does, so that's a good start then. Whilst revving it when cold (I have no idle valve) to keep t
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Why not just put a good clutch in to begin with? Helix clutches are good if you want a light pedal and good bite.....but they're not cheap.
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best place for forged pistons, standard bore... recomendations?...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Unless they have stock cast piston clearance (unlikely for forged), they WILL slap. Just because you may not hear it, doesn't mean it's not doing it. Some forged pistons have moly coated skirts. I can't hear piston slap over supecharger noise either ;-) -
best place for forged pistons, standard bore... recomendations?...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Yep, piston slap, which is the knocking noise you get as the pistons wobble about in the bores. It's only noticable when cold. Cast pistons don't expand as much as forged ones, so run tighter in the bores, but I've heard many a standard VR6 piston slap in the mornings. It's perfectly normal. It's best to just get in drive, no fannying about warming up the interior and de-icing before setting off....that does damage. -
best place for forged pistons, standard bore... recomendations?...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Me too! They're quieter than the JEs I used previously! -
I just used the stock lines that would normally feed the throttle body warmer/cooler,
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Interesting..... but he's starting the bidding at £3,411.....excluding getting it back to the UK. The same amount will get you a lot more than 280hp with a turbo kit :-) But it's different I guess! Big motor like that is going to sound throaty.....perfect for a mid engine conversion and it can be taken out to 4.0 litre apparently.
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best place for forged pistons, standard bore... recomendations?...
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
I recommend these - http://www.forgedpistons.co.uk/products/product.asp?id=223 If you really need 81mm, they'll do you some, but custom work has a 6 week lead time. Aftermarket forged pistons tend to be in over bore sizes only, hence no 81 mills. -
IBIVR on here has some OBD1 turbo software, or did have at least, might be worth talking to him. I use the DTA P8Pro to manage my turbo requirements, although that has now been superceded with the S80. What C2 say on their site is correct, the Stock ECU does automatically compensate for changing conditions (as can most standalones) but that isn't always desirable. It is preferable for YOU, the driver, to tell the ECU exactly what to do under any given circumstance, rather than letting the ECU p1ss about trying to make sense of the signals it's receiving. My P8Pro is dead smooth at any rpm.
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Strange! That's normally an immobiliser fault, but you'd get the usual "Engine start blocked by immobiliser" fault code. Do you have an alarm with an immobiliser built in? It could be that immobiliser that's causing it? A mate had the same problem on his S/C'd OBD1 Corrado.....would run for a minute then stop dead. Vince has just fixed that actually, it was the cold start map!
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I was running 8 psi on the standard management too, worked really well actually! Currently I'm on 11psi but the sky's the limit really if you build the engine and trans to take it. Bill Schimmel in the states runs 40psi of boost on some of his engines...I think that equates to about 850 [American!]whp. He's done or two 1000hp VR6 engines too, but for the drag strip. That would be totally useless on the road as you'd need huge slicks to get the power down and solid rear suspension....so not really wise for the road :-)
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I use the Sytec pump Stealth sell, it's about £95 IIRC and good for 500hp apparently. You have to ensure the pump pick up is right at the bottom of the VW housing (like stock) or the fuel guage will no longer be true. I think Stealth have some proper fitting kits for these intank pumps now to aid this.