FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yeah, splitting! The BEGI can increase fuel pressure at a rate of 10:1, so you can easily get 100+ Psi fuel pressure down the lines!
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Yep, agreed /\ 12V VRTs have been around for a long time now and history has shown they hold 15psi OK with standard internals. It's when you exceed that boost, especially with BIG turbos, you're on borrowed time. I didn't fit rods in mine when I had the chance and I'm regretting that now, but I run less than 15psi so haven't bent them....yet! As for bearings, HPA do some uprated black coated rod bearings, which I believe are RS4 bearings. Someone else may be able to confirm. Other than that, just build her up meticulously with new mains etc etc. I believe VW now issue 24V bearings as repla
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The plastic ones clipped to the floor can, it's the rubber hose you use to join them to the rail that you need to pay attention to ;-)
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Yes I would do rods and pistons if you're planning on exceeding a bar of boost. Someone may boast of running 500+ hp on stock internals but don't take that as being a factual safe hp limit. Build the motor for it's intended purpose - i.e. boost. VW didn't build the VR6 for boost, but you can, and benefit from the extra strength in the long run.
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Not that I'm aware of
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Erm, no, you drop the 440s in (@ 3 bar) with a 4" MAF and the stock software will adapt automatically. Is it OBD2 you've got? I've done that myself with OBD2 and it drives OK. Not brilliant, but it'll get you to your remapper. You only need the BEGI and MAF clamp if you're planning on using the stock fuel injectors, stock software, stock MAF and a high pressure fuel pump. I've done that aswell and it worked bloody well :-) Probably my favourite method actually, but it was my first attempt and after a standard VR6, it was crazy fast.
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VC2 mate - http://www.splitsec.com/products/vc2/vc2ds.htm If you're good with electronics, you can make one yourself for a few quid. It's mainly just diodes. Anyway, you stick the clamp onto a 12V supply, put 12V onto the blue wire and put a voltmeter onto the blue/red wire and. Turn the adjustment screw until there is 4.75 V on the blue red wire. 4.75V is a safe limit and allows for voltage creep. If you find you're still getting MAF clipping, wind it back to 4.5V
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Corrado and MK3 air boxes are completely different shapes. They are tight as standard though!
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The Rotrex works OK on the R32 as it's extra 300cc capacity fills in the torque hole left by the Rotrex's late spooling. IMHO, the Rotrex isn't particularly impressive on a 12V. You get MUCH better results with a turbo. 12Vs were made for them :-) R32 into MK2 isn't hard at all. You can use the factory ecu, remapped, and get a nice reliable 280hp. R32 and 12V VR6 weigh roughly the same.
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Thanks mate I won't be using a turbo jacket, I'll make up a heat shield instead.
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Cheers mate. It's not bad for someone who welds and wires up food preperation machinery for a living :-) This and my previous pipe were the only times he's ever welded exhausts. He should do that for a living instead! LOL, yours will be fine, although if you're using MIG, you'll never get the welds as tight as that, but do you know what seperates a good weld from a bad weld? An angle grinder ;-) Yeah the red block is an SX fuel regulator. The wire and sensor on it are for my in dash fuel pressure display.
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Nope, OBD2 throttle is completely different, you MUST use it. 2.9 throttle won't work at all. The schrick is a 3 peice casting and you can get OBD2 specific throttle elbows, for approx £75 from Stealth Racing.
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You need just one 3 layer metal head gasket mate. You pick apart the brass eyelets at each end, bin the middle layer and keep the top and bottom layers. And I would use Permatex copper gasket adhesive too. Coat all sides for good measure. As far as Garretts are concerned, you only use an oil feed restrictor (on the turbo, not at the oil filter Tee off end) on the GTxxxxR turbos. Remember "R" means ball bearing. I emphasise that important point because you can get a GT30 or GT35 etc that are journal bearing'd, which don't need a restictor afaik. Remember this - R = Restrictor ;-) But alwa
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Few minor updates:- Got the last bit of welding back from my mate last week ago and looking good so far. The wastegate dump pipe is done and he's got that in for welding too, but these are the construction pics. I just used a little piece of straight, a 1.75" flex and a 90 degree. If using the Tial 44mm WG, you'll need 1.75" bore pipe and if you're using the 38mm, you need 1.5" pipe. Once you're happy with your angles and how the dump pipe butts up against the main downpipe, you need to make a hole in the main pipe. I couldn't find a nibbler tool strong enough to cut through stainless
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Yeah it's a generic Tial clone mate, which will work OK.
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I don't think it's quite as easy as that. When I had my 12psi pulley on, it certainly wasn't making more boost at lower rpms as expected. There is such a thing on the market that does exactly what you want. It's called a Turbo :-)
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Can anyone shed any light on this turbo for my vrt?
FishWick replied to dirty's topic in Engine Tuning
So the compressor intake is 70mm and the turbine exhaust outlet is 60mm? 60mm turbine outlet is a little on the small side tbh, but the 1.15 AR isn't so bad. -
Unfortunately not, totally different head ports.
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Downpipe is back with the welder getting the wastegate dump pipe welded on. Got a few more pics to get off the camera and upload, will try and do that later on!
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That's actually the easiest way! Coverting a 4WD 02M to VR6 FWD is even more complicated and expensive! Don't forget also, the 02M is a physically bigger and heavier box too, which sometimes necessitates a redesigned turbo downpipe.
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Yep, they do the same with the oil breather pipe too. From VW you have to buy the whole intake pipe for £100 ish, but Ford will sell you just the breather section for £25 ish, so yeah, I know what you're thinking. Afaik, only VAG vehicles got the 24V VR6. And even if it went into other cars, it's unlikely they'd get the R32 version with the modded sump and pump :-(
