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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Depends really, the standard hoses are good enough, so why not replace with new ones? Some of us run upgraded lines from the pump to the rail! You can get -6 (10mm ID) lines up the floor no probs and get more flow and no joins. I always hated the fact the hose joins on the standard setup are right next to the hot turbo manifold!!
  2. FishWick
    350whp should be doable for a TO4B, but we need to know the exact specs..... wheel sizes, hot and cold side ARs etc etc.... If it's a genuine Garrett Turbo, the serial tag in the centre housing should reveal all....
  3. FishWick
    Yeah the one Stealth sell is great, I use that one aswell and have no trouble making 400hp with it. It's a Cosworth spec intank marketed by Sytec, but is actually made by Walbro. I'm pretty sure it's just a 255lh under the hood and it's a good pump.
  4. FishWick
    My anti-surge GT35R compressor housing might fit your T04R. I took it off to fit a plain housing as I hate the whine! It's a TO4S type housing, so should fit if you want it!
  5. FishWick
    Positive displacement chargers are far better for torque than centrifugals. The Eaton will be making torque far lower in the rev range than the Vortech / Rotrex etc, which do feck all until ~ 4000rpm. Tricky to fit, but more rewarding imo. Yes the Eatons sap power, but so do the Centrifugals.
  6. FishWick
    If it's the 0.84 hotside, 0.60 coldside one, then it should do yeah.
  7. FishWick
    Correct :-)
  8. FishWick
    A little more I'd say. GT30s usually give 400 @ 15psi. Your T04R is GT35R sized, so a lot more flow. Go for the 44mm WG, will work a LOT better at low boost than the 38mm.
  9. FishWick
    The bucking is caused by the ECU shutting the injectors down due to the MAF sensor voltage exceeding the 5V maximum. MAFs are a royal pain in the back side when it comes to tuning VRTs. Remaps sometimes work, sometimes not, MAF clamps sometimes work, sometimes not. It's a bit of a lottery.
  10. FishWick
    If you planning on running < 15psi, then I would get the Tial 44mm.
  11. FishWick
    Did a bit more prep work today. I P clipped the loom and serrvo hose to the bulkhead.... ...which has provided plenty of room for the turbo :-) I also deleted the aux water pump. I observed what it actually does when the engine was off by pulling a couple of hoses, and not a lot is the answer. I know of a few other people who've binned it with no adverse effects. I've decided to try the standard airbox with this install. Looks a lot better than a generic cone! Moving onto Manifold prep work.... I'm using ATP's 38mm to 44mm adapter. The hole in the manifold is pretty small, even for
  12. FishWick
    For Mass air based installs, I recommend this diverter valve - http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDVSUPR
  13. FishWick
    Exciter rings, LOL, sounds like some kind of sex toy :-) The VR6 ABS sensors are inductive, and most aftermarket TC systems need hall sensor signals, so I'll email Racelogic to see if their system supports them and what the interface with the factory ECU consists of. The Racelogic system retards ignition and a good system is obviously invisible to the end user, but keen drivers will detect the power being cut. It works better than wheel braking type TC systems imo, not as aggressive and nannying, plus the RL's severity is switchable.
  14. FishWick
    Agreed' date=' although they are fun in the corners :-) I think for that money the Autotech Wavetrak is worth a look as a good alternative. I've not heard of either a Peloquin or a Quaife breaking through normal road use, but have heard of both breaking in track use, particularly if slick tyres are used. But then slicks have been known to break geaboxes and driveshafts on standard power, let alone ATB diffs!
  15. FishWick
    Few updates. My second Spa manifold is royally f'cked, so that's going in the bin. Cracked right round. For those who want to know why the ATP manifold doesn't fit, here's why, the brake pot gets in the way.... The compressor butts up against the servo hose and loom too, although a smaller turbo won't do that. I'm using a TO4S housing which is pretty big. Not to worry though cos both issues are easy to rectify. Simply take the brake pot off completely and relocate it next to the expansion tank and run hoses over to the master cylinder. Can't see that in this pic, but you can see there
  16. FishWick
    Well this is the thing. Wossner advertise the VR6 T pistons as being 8.5:1' date=' but when mine arrived, they were actually 8:1. So Vince at stealth who got them in for me rang Wossner to confirm and they said "Yep, they are indeed 8:1 because the 3 layer Head gasket increases compression half a point, giving you a final CR of 8.5-8.6:1..." Who knows, don't have the skills or equipment to measure these things properly, so I have to take their word for it! Sounds like you've engineered it well, so you should be fine. Not had the boost hose problem as yet, well, only once when I forgot to c
  17. FishWick
    You need a 10 bar sender for the VR6. Cold pressure at idle ~ 4 bar Hot pressure at idle ~ 2 bar Cold 90mph cruise ~ 6 bar Hot 90mph cruise ~ 4 bar As Rigs says, it depends on a few things. Grade of oil you're using, condition of your bearings etc etc but generally speaking, if you see 2 bar at hot idle, oil pressure is good.
  18. FishWick
    VAG-COM will tell you the intake temp. Just connect it up, plonk the laptop on the passenger seat and see what the readings are. Or you can use VAG-COM's logging feature and export the data in MS Excel after the drive, which is safer, LOL! I've also read that some people move the outside temperature sender into their intakes somehow and then you can read the intake temp on your MFA display. But that's not a good idea if you're comparing intake temp to outside temp ;-)
  19. FishWick
    Scooby TD04 and 5s are a bit small for a VR6, the boost will drop off quite quickly past 5K I would imagine. RS turbo one definitely too small. T3/T04e with a 0.63 back housing is as small as I would go personally. T3/T04e, GT3076R, GT3582R, T70, T60-1 are popular turbos for the VR6. The basics are:- 1) Lower compression - Spacers being the cheapest option 2) Fit turbo and manifold 3) From there, work out the pipework and plumbing and get it made. 4) Setup and mapping. There are no black & whites. I don't think I've seen 2 VR6 Turbos the same. Each owner has their own requirements and
  20. FishWick
    You don't want to use the top port with an MBC! That is used in conjuction with an IBC. You plumb in the solenoid between the top and side ports and it juggles the air between the two. It's how you get 25psi from an 8psi spring, but imo, it's not a nice way to control boost. So yeah, you're using the right port (side) but 36mm is a tad on the small side. 44mm is ideal for a mid size turbo on a VR, but no smaller than 38mm. I suspect you have a combination of MBC spiking and wastegate flow problems. The MBC in your case is built into the wastegate, or are you using another MBC aswell?
  21. FishWick
    I know mate. The trouble with the motor parts industry is you don't know what to believe half the time. Whose to say the Wossner being chinese information wasn't fabricated by a rival piston maker? I wish I looked on the back of my Wossner box for "Made in xxxxxxx" when I had the chance!! Even if they are chinese made, they're still designed by a german company so will have had the proper R&D put into them. Yes JEs do run looser in the bores, but they are made of a better quality material and have better weight balancing across a set of 6 than Wossner.....apparently. As end users o
  22. FishWick
    Which one did you use out of interest? Not teaching you to suck egss' date=' but with those cams and turbo, I'd seriously consider upping your game to the Tial 44mm gate. The 38 is known for spiking and is undersized for your application too....imo. I currently have the 38mm also with a 0.82 35R and it's too small! Not enough flow once the target boost has been achieved. The 38mm is good for high boost though :-) But at 11psi. the 44mm is better for your EGTs. 437hp and 428lb ft from 11psi !! F'ck me that's bloody good! You said Brake hp, which assumes a crank figure? Still b
  23. FishWick
    Cool. Yeah the Standard OBD2 software adapts the 440s to MAF size automatically, so you'd get better results with them, but the reds should be OK too. Less work for the lambda control!
  24. FishWick
  25. FishWick
    The 4" MAF needs 440cc green tops @ 3 bar You only need a 3" MAF for 310cc red tops with a 10K pot on the MAF signal line.
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