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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    The O2M into VR6 thread of all threads, but is based on a FWD O2M - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2633108 If I could get hold of a FWD 02M, I'd have done it ages ago.
  2. FishWick
    Nope because VW won't sell it seperately....
  3. FishWick
    Thanks mate :-) I know forum guides tend to paint only half the picture of what's involved, which is why I've tried to be as informative as possible. If you're good with tools, have the time and space, then I seriously believe anyone can do it. I don't have a daily driver, so it's a pain for me having to scab lifts off people all the time and I can't weld either, so it's taking a while to do. The first time you feel and hear your own VRT come on boost makes all the expense and hassle worth it though, it truly does :-)
  4. FishWick
    You would need some kind of electronic dump valve control. How about a schrick controller opening a dump valve instead of the flap?
  5. FishWick
    I would not run MAFless unless absolutely necessary.
  6. FishWick
    I don't see what's confusing about this post ;-) -
  7. FishWick
  8. FishWick
    Why put yourself through the hassle of making a s/hand turbo from a standard car fit, which will more than likley be f'cked anyway, when you can get a brand new T3/T4e for around £450? - http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-034&Category_Code=TBN Turbos on standard cars are sized for a particular job and rarely have much head room beyond + 50-60hp. You won't be happy running low boost for long, you WILL want to turn it up, so make sure you get a reasonable size turbo to begin with :-)
  9. FishWick
    Point 21 on this guide also shows the mark you can see.... http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/diys/timing_chains_replacement.htm
  10. FishWick
    Indeed it is when you first start out! Where do you want the beef of the torque to kick in? And do prefer top end shove, or mid range thump? Popular turbos over the years for the VR6 have been:- GT3582R, GT3076R, T60-1, T04B, T04E, T04S, T70 etc The "R" in GT35R denotes ball bearing. The others there are Journal bearings. Journal bearing turbos are rebuildable, ball bearing ones aren't. Something to bear in mind for future replacement costs. Having said that, BB ones have fewer parts so are very reliable if looked after and fed with good quality oil. They're the tried and testeds. Borg
  11. FishWick
    The software is expecting the evap purge valve to be there, so I'd leave it connected. As for running the tank vent hose out by the tank, that's fine, MK1 and MK2 Golfs used to do it that way (before the days of zero HC emissions), just make sure it's out of sight otherwise an MOT tester will have a few words in your ear.
  12. FishWick
  13. FishWick
    You need to find a compressor map for it and see where it surges and chokes with a VR6's flow. If I were you, I would just stick to the tried and tested turbos that have been used on VR6s for years.
  14. FishWick
    You can only see it looking through a hole in the intermediate sprocket. Should be an arrow pointing north (or south). If it's pointing anywhere else, the sequential timing will be wrong and the injector end time will need to be corrected in the software.
  15. FishWick
    Theoretically, turbo engines are more economical than both a Normally Aspirated engine of the same power output and also the same size engine with a Supercharger. Why? Because the exhaust gas is 100% waste on N/A and S/C engines, Turbos recycle it into useable power. Turbo engines only require more fuel when on boost, which isn't that often realistically. Centrifugal Superchargers sap power permanently and only make full boost at the redline, which uses monumental amounts of fuel. That's the theory anyway, but it can be backed up in real life too. I've had stage 2 and 3 Vortechs (8 an
  16. FishWick
    Providing you didn't turn the engine whilst the cams were off, then yes, it should be timed. I would turn it a few times by hand and make sure it's still timed correctly. Also double check the intermediate sprocket timing marks are still OK. You can get a small mirror and light down there.
  17. FishWick
    The kit will work, but for how long and how well is anyone's guess. You'll need other stuff to finish it aswell, and being based around a copy of the ATP manifold, you might have to relocate the brake fluid resevoir.
  18. FishWick
    Cheers guys! H13VYY, yeah the ATP seems OK so far. I just hope it doesn't crack, or I'll give up and buy a Smart Car or something!
  19. FishWick
    LOL /\ :-) Agreed with Binliner, I'd go with SFS. They've got a good website, dead easy and reliable shopping cart and quick service. I suspect SFS are tied in with Forge Motorsport and Siliconhoses.com because all 3 sites use the same ecommerce platform! SFS hoses have good thick walls and are super durable. Much more so than Siliconhoses.com
  20. FishWick
    Cheers Bodge mate! There's an oil restrictor on the turbo itself, which GTxxxR turbos need, but other than that, just straight bits of pipe / hose. The only potentially restrictive thing about the standard airbox is the inlet throat behind the headlight, but that unclips and opens up a much bigger hole if needed. I'll try it as it is first and go from there. I suspect any restriction will only be noticable at high rpm and / or high boost (15+ psi). Good question on the SRI and the answer is I don't know, LOL! No reason why you can't but I suspect alloy dissipates heat more better than ste
  21. FishWick
    Made a bit more progress.... Downpipe's coming together. This is the shape you're aiming for with the ATP. From the top, I used a tight 90, 30 degree section, then a 90 degree and finally a 3" Ilok flex. All from Jetex. Since it's impossible to fit the flex on the vertical (wastegate gets in the way), next best thing is mounting it at 45 degrees above the front ARB. The pipe to bulkhead gap is bigger than it looks, there's about an inch, which is plenty with uprated engine mounts... Hi temp oil drain hose from ATP. I'm draining back to the block for easier driveshaft clearance. Her
  22. FishWick

    Turbo

    FishWick replied to Advr6's topic in Engine Tuning

    There currently aren't any off the shelf kits for RHD cars, but C2 UK are working on one. Most people do bespoke installs and the easiest manifold for this is the SPA Turbo one.
  23. FishWick

    9:1 or 8.5:1?

    FishWick replied to kcw's topic in Engine Tuning

    Agreed /\ Off boost, 8.5:1 won't feel any different to stock if it's been mapped well. Chains will be fine.
  24. FishWick
    If I said that on the VW Vortex then WW3 definitely would have started :-) You're not allowed an opinion on that forum, unless it's the right one of course ;-) Go for it mate. There's probably some good books out there to point you in the right direction.
  25. FishWick
    No short answer for that really. Intake design is an area of big debate and is very scientific. Some people say short runner plenum volume should be 1.6 times the engine's cubic capcity, but it often boils down to what will actually fit on the engine without moving alternators and chopping up slam panels etc. As far as boost is concerned, some folk say tiny plenums are best for spool up / throttle response, but long runners and larger plenums have been shown to work too. IMO, the best intake is one that provides the broadest spread of power across the entire rev range and the Schimmel one doe
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