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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. No such thing as a bolt on kit, but C2 Motorsports UK are apparently developing a RHD kit, but their website is permanently "under construction" so you might be waiting eons for that. Just do what every one else does and go with the ATP manifold and relocate the brake fluid container. Or if you get a turbo with a 3" intake, you may not need to move the brake pot.
  2. Shouldn't worry about it. I've been using mine for 30K and only just found out! Apparently they're OK for low to mid boost, but high boost (30+ psi) they probably won't handle.
  3. I didn't say I saw a VW turbo engine @ 7:1 ;-) It was some kind of Jap thing. I was just making a point that you can get forged pistons for any engine in any compression ratio. 8.5:1 is a nice number for a boosted VR6. And whilst on the subject, Mahle are the best bar none. But they are $220 per piston for custom work. Wossner it turns out are cheap chinese pistons, but branded as German. Cheeky gits. JE are the real deal. Wiseco, not sure about them. Any others?
  4. I had an early LC-1 and it was quite poor to be honest. I hear they've been improved recently though. The PLX just plugs in and goes and better still, it matches the reference Motec PLM Vince uses on the dyno, so we know it's accurate. The LC-1 used to be 1 AFR adrift, so when the Motec, DTA and PLX all agreed on the same AFR, it was quite clear the LC-1 wasn't quite right so I flogged it!
  5. Put in the bin where it belongs :-)
  6. Suprisingly the best MBC I've used is a cheap ebay one - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Boost-Controller-Toyota-MR2-Turbo-Supra-GT4_W0QQitemZ130286014297QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item130286014297&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318. Just don't use a TurboSmart boost tee, they spike quite badly. Spiking can also be caused by some wastegates (Tial 38mm for example), so spiking isn't always boost controller related. As mentioned earlier, it's down to taste. I prefer the feel of MBCs. IBCs feel too synthetic
  7. Try a manual boost controller first and see how you feel after that. I like the little boost spike you get with MBCs....it's what makes a turbo engine feel like a turbo engine :-) If you want an IBC, I would go Apexi AVCR.
  8. Don't waste your time with Megasquirt mate. You've got OBD2 which is a very good system, so I would personally go C2 chip or Stealth remap. I briefly used Megasquirt on a 16V Supercharged engine and the software is frankly, nasty. You get what you pay for mate. Having personally experienced how well mapped OBD2 turbos run, I would go that route. Seriously. I know I'm pro standalone, but I would rather go carbs than Megasquirt. Do your engine justice and get some proper software behind it....
  9. http://www.spaturbo.com.br/joomla//component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,1833/category_id,151/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,60/ Dunno if they'll sell the pipe seperately though.... C2 were supposed to be making a bolt on turbo kit for RHD cars but I haven't heard anything new on that....
  10. Yep, I realise that. What I meant was making up a way of using the dogbone mount as per the link posted by MaidenVR6. It's just a personal preference thing....
  11. No, the dogbone mount would be installing it as VW intended.
  12. Yep, just mirroring what CorradoVR6-NOS said, the PowerGasket is crap. Does nothing what so ever. The momumentum one I don't have experience of, but like the look of it. The one I sold James was 8mm thick and sealed with O rings and worked really well. I saw an 8 degree reduction in intake temps (charge cooler switched off) which I thought was great. I saw no reduction in temp at all with Awesome's.
  13. It's hard to say without seeing the car, but if the Rallye VR6 is still LHD, then you won't a brake servo and master cylinder to get in the way, so you can easily use the ATP manifold. The downpipe will need to be custom though as the US kits are for FWD cars usually.
  14. 4th I can understand, but 5th! Blimey! The car usually has enough momentum behind at 5th gear speeds to not strip it, but I guess it's probably at the end of the gearshaft and more susceptible to flexing? I still haven't exceeded a bar of boost in 2 years though, which is another reason the box has lasted I suspect! The 35R is slower to spool than any of the GT30s, so the theory behind that is even more vehicle momentum before the boost hits hard, but it can still be just as manic as the 30Rs in some conditions.
  15. This one is better - http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/engine.asp
  16. Stealth Racing should have a dyno plot of my 3071R on their computer. I'll get it next time I'm there. GT3582R, see the dyno plot thread. GT3076R, I never dynoed it with that turbo. Be careful of aggressive turbos because they can destroy gearboxes easily. That's one reason why I went GT35 after the GT30s. I doubt my gearbox would have lasted 2 years if I was still using the 3071R.
  17. My old 0.82 GT3071R on a standard head and cams used to tail off at about 5800ish, so a 1.06 should keep going past that with the Autotechs....
  18. BMC every time. Ram air just makes noise and nothing else. The BMC actually liberates power, 7hp, on Stealth's dyno.
  19. Yep. Further proof that the old myth that if the engine is quite, the chains are fine is complete bollards! Clutch is about £85 from a dealer....
  20. That's fair enough mate. Keep an eye on your air intake temps in the meantime, but they shouldn't get too hot with a VF charger to be honest.
  21. Yes they bolt right in like the stock cams with no special procedures. Don't forget to replace the cam sensor trigger wheel (it's on the rear cam) if it's a coilpack engine. The cam sprockets are tightened 100nm and if your mechanic hasn't done VR6 cams before, warn him the rear cam's sprocket bolt can be a real b1tch to remove because of the washer on the trigger wheel. I've had to take a few rear cams down to a local tyre place to wind the sprocket bolt off with an air gun before, so yeah, if it's a daily car, it can go horribly wrong. The engine will run OK without a remap, but a map would
  22. He's done a brilliant job of that. Personally speaking, I'd prefer to do it that way and sit the gearbox in the car as VW intended.
  23. Nice looking chargecooler! The key to a good chargecooler is water volume and good pumping rate. I use this 20 gallon p/m water pump http://www.meziere.com/ps-892-860-wp136s.aspx and a 3 gallon water tank (boot mounted) with 18mm bore hose. The radiator is 20" x 5" x 1". Don't p1ss about with fish pond and caravan pumps, do it properly. The VR6 aux pump isn't up to it either.
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