FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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I had the 15lb Braille and it was fine. Only has a 3 day window though, left any longer it will struggle to turn the engine over. It's fine for a daily driver. They are not designed to be left sat in a garage for weeks unused! You need a normal lead acid battery for that ;-)
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Thanks guys! Yeah I need to get myself Youtubed up really don't I. Took it out for it's first spin last night and I was very nervous turning it over as you can imagine!! Amazingly it fired up straight away and settled to a nice idle with no leaks, exhaust blowing, or other nasties. Drives real nice too :-) The stock air box sounds fantastic with a turbo, it's got to be done boys :-) There's no loud sucking noises or whistles at all, it's pure refinement....but there's an unexpected meaty induction roar at low rpms when you put your foot down, sounds awesome! So all in all, I'm chuffed to
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The external wastegate one I take it? Well in that case all you have to do is weld a 3" V band ring onto one of these - http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-033&Category_Code=GTNBB
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You might have to cut the 6 bolt flange off the turbo and weld a V band ring in it's place. What on earth is a 6 bolt turbo from? A Massey Ferguson tractor or something? :-) Seen 3, 4 and 5 bolt turbos, but not a 6.... not on a petrol engine at least.
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For low boost, yep. On the T60-1, I'd go with the TIAL 44mm personally.
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OK, my welder had a spurt of enthusiasm last week and I've managed to make some good progress this weekend. Downpipe lagged, wideband fitted and then thrown onto the car - The ATP heatshield is rubbish, doesn't shield anything and sits too close to the manifold, so I modified it, LOL! Notice also the wastegate fitting. Rubber or silicon vac line just isn't going to last for shit with all that heat, so that and the dump valve are plumbed in with -4 braided teflon. The other benefit of hard line wastegate plumbing is no 'balloon' effect of the line, so it should spike a lot less than norma
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Cheers matey. If you don't mind waiting 17 years, he might do another one, LOL!
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What, an R32 pump with the standard VR6 sump? Won't work as the oil pick up will be too high and you'll get major oil surge problems.
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Another minor update. The Audi R8 rubber intake bellow fits like a glove :-) Really happy with how that fits. Not bad for £14! Most of it is over the metal intake pipe, so shouldn't collapse under boost. I've also derestriced the airbox by removing the front and upper snorkels. I wanted to use the upper snorkel but it reduces down to 2.5" inside the box, so a bit restrictive for turbo use. I imported this bracket for the Bosch 044 pump from 034Motorsport which looks nice. I painted the base of it and the pump with smoothrite to stop them corroding over winter. Just a couple more bits o
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Yeah, it's got to be a cheap chinese copy or he bought all the old stock from VW for peanuts. A photo of the Beru and Temic logos will prove it's original. If he's reluctant to supply them, then he's dodgy as suspected.
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He is, but bloody sloooooooooow! Business venture, hell no! Once or twice is enough!
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Relay for the pump is 167 Why are you running the system dry to change a fuel regulator?!
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Standard coilpack is about £180 last time I got one. Engine power comes from how much fuel and air you burn, not how big the spark is. The standard coilpack is more than up to the job of running a standard engine. Only turboed VR6s need worry about spark strength. However, this coilpack will fit inside the stock ally cradle without much work - http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/components/ignition_coils/3x2.pdf
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Total cost wil be £1063 + shipping at today's rates. A lot of work went into those and as it's a small market, they've got to get their money back. Cogged drives are horrendously noisy though.
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I would only use the VR6 specific flywheel. The bolts are a very exact fit in the holes. Any slight clearance issues with the bolts can cause the flywheel to wobble around!
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Thanks Aaron chap! Just the one update. Downpipe is almost complete. My welder's current welding on the lambda boss and the other side of the flexi and it's done! :-)
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Fidanza - http://www.fidanza.com/Aluminum-Flywheels.aspx Schimmel - http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16024 Or buy a new standard one from VW (£70 + VAT exchange) and get it drilled.
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Regulator - VW ~£50+VAT Fuel filter - Use a VW one Coilpack - Get it from VW, they're not much cheaper from Ford Remap - Approx £350+VAT from stealth. On a standard engine, the gains will be minimal.
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Go for a 2.8 24V instead :-) When and if that wears out, you can rebuild it to any size from 2.9 to 3.3 A nice 2.8 with R32 crank, modded pistons and R32 head will make lovely, thick walled 3.0 engine, perfect for turboing ;-)
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Yeah with large Journal bearing turbos, it would be ideal to let the turbine slow down before switching if off after a hard run, or just stay off boost for the last couple of minutes of your journey. Oil only turbos have a lot more oil pass through the centre housing than ball bearing turbos, so that in itself acts as a coolant. To be honest, an oil only turbo simplifies the install a fair bit and spool up isn't much slower.
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I think the T67 will be laggy on a VR6. 67mm inducer wheel compared to the T60-1's 59mm. I'd get the T60-1. It's slightly smaller than a GT35R, but will behave very similar. IMO the GT35R is without doubt the best turbo for a VR6, so a T60-1 being very similar is a much better choice than a T67.
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It's certainly easier. The ECU and software come as one package, you just need to program it. If you want a custom map for OBD1 or 2, you will always need to physically change chips.
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Some tuners write their own software, but one of the better commerically available ones I've seen is WinOLS. It's no different to a Standalone in that you are programming a computer chip with some software. The difference where OBD1 and 2 is concerned is they have read only chips, so any changes need to be burned onto a new chip. And that necessitates an Emulator to write the map onto first. I would not recommend a DIY tinkerer get involved with that. It's easy to hydrolock the engine with fuel if the Emulator loses power and if you don't know what you're doing with the software, it''s VER
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Famous last words. Many a 1.8T owner has said the same thing and then swiftly bent a standard rod when pushing past 300hp :-) Whilst the stock ones unquestionably do a good job, the pistons are being pushed down very brutally compared to a Norm Asp VR6. It's only a matter of time / boost before they bend. Stronger pistons with beefier ring lands and stiffer rods are a wise move, but not essential as you say. Just depends on your goals.
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The Rado must be a right beater at that price, avoid! Jettas are OK, if a little picnic blanket Pensioner's car. America got a MK4 Golf with the 12V VR6, so it's doable if you want to go down that road.
