FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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I use a BMC CDA on my VR6 Turbo and that's fine with 400hp. I wouldn't push any more through it than that though as you do get a little intake reversion at the top end with turbos (turbo tries to suck in more air than the filter allows) but for your charger, it'll be fine. Whether or not a BMC will fit down there, I don't know! Have you see then "drilled flower pot " water shield VF Engineering sell? Might work. Do MK4s have lined inner archs? Never got that problem on my Corrado as inner wing is enclosed with plastic shielding.
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Nice!
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Not sure mate. Would it be best to partition the manifold according to firing order? So 1, 5 & 3 in one partition and 6, 2 & 4 in the other? I don't know a huge amount about twin scroll strategies tbh! The divided turbo will still work well with a normal manifold, but would work better with a divided manifold. I don't think any cast divided manifolds for VRTs exist? I've only ever seen one VRT dividied mani and that was a tubular one. 2 banks of 3 were came together at the collector with a divided flange so that 2 lots of 3 pulses fed the two turbine inputs, rather than 6 lots o
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Techtonics do a lovely 2.5" system which is very quiet in both NA and turbo applications, and less than half the weight of the stock system! 3" over the axle is doable but if using regular rubber mounts and the car is lowered and the pipe isn't ovalised, I don't care what anyone says, it will defintely knock over bumpy B roads if you're travelling at a fair lick. If you're not worried about the car interior, just hammer a hump into the boot floor :-)
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Two ways around that:- 1) Bolt on a 4 bolt to V band adapter 2) Machine a V band flange onto the back housing in place of the 4 bolt flange
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If your Rallye is still LHD, then take your pick from any of the US kits.
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If you're going to use a divided turbo (aka twin scroll), ideally you want the manifold to be divided aswell. The idea of it is to seperate the turbo's exhaust feed into 2 seperate banks for the strongest possible exhaust pulses and yep, it does indeed improve spool up :-) There's no easy answer as to which is best because as with all car mods, it depends on user requirements ;-)
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Yeah, agreed on the 0.82 housing. The difference between those turbos is mainly packaging mate. Top one is a T4 hot side fitment with V band and the other is a T3 fitment with 4 bolt outlet. Shame you're not going standalone as I have a brilliant map for a VR6 Turbo with T60-1 :-)
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Dunno, I've never heard WG chatter on mine :-) Try googling it. I can't hear my WG open when driving or a change in exhaust note when it opens, so I have no reason to believe I would hear it 'chattering' either. I suspect if you had an open WG dump pipe (aka screamer pipe) you'd certainly hear it! So you actually want the compressor stalling noises, despite the fact we've told you it's unhealthy for the turbo? Fair enough, LOL!
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The ATP? It's not fitted yet. I'm taking the car off the road soon and will get some pics up as I fit it. StormchargedVR6 on here already has the ATP fitted and the only clearance issue is the brake fluid pot, which needs moving, which isn't a hard job :-)
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Wastegate "chatter", is when the valve (external WG) or gate (internal WG) "flutters" (bounces open / closed continuously) when the spring pressure and boost pressure almost equalise on partial boost conditions. I.e. Not quite enough boost pressure in the signla line to push the valve open, and not enough spring pressure to keep it closed, if that makes sense? The noises associate with closing the throttle quickly are absolutely nothing to do with the wastegate what so ever!! I think it's just one of those myths that worked it's way into the mainstream from rallying etc... Dump valves just
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Gone for an ATP manifold. It's still not a great manifold, but so long as it doesn't crack, I don't mind!
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I've heard of stainless and mild being welded together. It's how SuperSprint and VAG exhausts are made.....stainless pipe, with mild steel silencers. Good skills! You can come round to mine and make a downpipe for me then, LOL!
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Many customers pay good money to get that "cha cha cha" noise, which they've read on the internet is "Wastegate chatter" and think it's cool. Top name tuner or not, they're unlikely to turn down a wedge of cash if that's what the customer wants. Turbos are now less fragile and longer lasting than they used to be, but compressor surge is still bad and should be avoided.
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Nice one, thanks for the tip!
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Yep, too much advance is bad. To make peak torque, you need to fire the coils just after the piston has gone past it's dwell point and starting the down stroke. But a the same time, you need to retard the ignition for any circumstance where the fuel / air is liable to explode rather than burn, such as high load, low rpm and under boost. My previous post was quite high level, but setting up ignition advance is not particularly easy. There's a very fine line between peak torque and detonation. Many race engines don't use knock sensors because they're tuned to run on the edge of knock,
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Yeah yours has held up very well considering mate... BTW, I think I saw you at the Highwoods Tescos a month or so ago with your missus? Sorry if I blanked you, I wasn't sure if it was you or not, LOL! Not that I've seen you twice, LOL, what am I like! Anyway, so your turbo is a divided type, aka "twin scroll", but the manifold is isn't? Hmmm, yeah that will defo cause problems! Can you not cut the T3 flange off and weld a divided one on in it's place? ATP sell them. Divideds usually have quite low back housing ARs, which spools nice and quick
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What's the T3 port alignment like on your manifold Jim? Curiously enough, when I dismantled my first SPA manifold setup, I found my T3 gasket was split like that aswell....and the T3 bolts hadn't shaken loose. It was because the T3 port alignment was so bad, a lot of the gasket was exposed to the exhaust flow, and when you're talking 0.5mm steel plate subjected to 800+ degrees of exhaust....it ain't gonna last long. Can't wait to get the bloody thing off.
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As already mentioned' date=' with stock compression and timing, the retarding will be big. I forgot to say that with my BEGI fuelling method, I was using an 8.5:1 head spacer. I have in the past run 12psi with my Vortech charger on stock compression with a short intake and water injection, but that was remapped to suit. Knock regulation was still pretty busy though. A proper timing map should be done on a load adjustable dyno. The aim is to use the advance numbers which produce peak torque when making power. Timing on no load + part throttle areas is fairly arbitary and not as cri
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Yes the BEGI route works well. It's how I did my first turbo engine, as per my DIY guide. You'll need a MAF clamp and I recommend the one from Split Second tuning. You will also need a good fuel pump, and I recommend the Cosworth spec Walbro (Marketed by Sytec) that Stealth sell as it comes with the necessary fitting rings. This particular pump sits in the stock position, so doesn't run dry at < 1/4 tank. Good for 500 crank power. I used a Forge Twin piston dump valve and didn't seem to cause any problems, but a recirc is better where MAFs are concerned. The other way to do it is wit
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It's also worth remembering the turbo's compressor flow when choosing a target boost pressure. PSI is PSI, regardless of turbo size, but a GT35 running 15psi will be pushing more air in than a GT30 running 15psi. So although 9:1 is probably safe with a GT30 running 12psi, it may not be with a GT35. So I'd always run 8.5:1, or even 8:1 if you're planning on big boost pressures with big CFM turbos. The difference in off boost performance between 10:1 and 8.5:1 is negligable if the engine's setup right :-)
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I've tried the 3071R, 3076R and 35R, all with 0.82 housings and if you want the behaviour to be as per your first post, I'd go with the GT35R, with 0.82. The T60-1 is a good budget alternative though. Slightly laggier than a 35R, but similar flow characterisitcs.
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Hey Jim, it's great yours is proving reliable, cracks and all. C2 Motorsports sell a 3" over axle pipe which is bent to the right shape if it helps? You could use that to make up a full 3" system. My 2.5" system knocks on the floor slightly only on very harsh bumps and I use stock VW rubbers. It's likely a 3" will knock occasionally but one cure is to knock a hump into the boot floor to give more clearance. Re the turbo nut that shook loose, I bought some locking ones from Stage8, which will be going on with the new manifold etc. Demon tweeks sell some chemical metal stuff that's designed
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The only thing that concerns me about R32 turbos in FWD applications is traction, or lack of! :-) Personally I think the 2.8 24V is probably a wiser and saner choice for a road car. If you've got 4WD, then I'd defo go R32 turbo as the extra bottom end torque helps overcome the drivetrain weight and you stand a better chance of traction if you nail it off the line. Having said that, my mate's Evo IX FQ 360 (which has a MASSIVELY better 4WD system than Golf R32s) easily spins all 4 wheels off the line this time of year.....but I still can't keep up with him. I only start to pull him in half
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Jesus H Christ, PMSL!!! Looks like something from the "The Thing"! Bad luck Jim :-( Obviously I can relate to your issue! Unfortunately, any cracks and blowing pre-turbo can slow the spool up. Mine's been cracked for ages now but it still drives OK. Looking forward to tidying it all up down there next year.
